Microbe Organics

 
Ciliate
Ciliate

Contact:  thegoodjob@hotmail.com    

Microbe Organics? What the heck is this?; You ask. It is the name I chose to describe my approach to the understanding and interpretation of microbial based soil and plant amendments currently evolving in horticultural practices throughout the world. Two such practices which you may have heard of or use yourself are Compost Tea and EM (Effective Microorganisms {EMRO USA} or Beneficial and Effective Microorganisms{SCD}; 2 Brand Names). I will be focusing to begin with on the practical analysis and use of Compost Tea.


I am initiating this website in July of 2007 to coincide with the release of a DVD I produced to assist with the identification microscopically of the major beneficial microbes at work in compost, soil and Compost Tea.

I am not an expert in this field of biology, in fact I am a lifelong student and will defer to the far superior overall knowledge of several experts in microbial based amendments, however what I have to offer is a translation or simplification of many of the terms, functions and observations surrounding this science. The reason I am able to do this is mostly due to my ‘I have to see it to believe it or comprehend it’ attitude. When I first started researching microbial based agriculture about six years ago I set up a small microscope laboratory enabling me to observe the microorganisms present in Compost Tea, microbial fermentations (e.g. EM), compost and soil. I set up an interface between a video camera, microscope and computer thus allowing me to capture real time video which has culminated thus far in the production of my first DVD.

Like the science which this growing (pun intended) phenomenon is based upon, this website will evolve over time. I will post links to sources of knowledge, supplies and practical solutions as I acquire permission to do so and as I learn of them. As I gain more skill managing this site I hope to post video footage of observations and experiments. Therefore keep checking back for updates.   

Using This Page: I have a dislike for websites where one must wait for pages to load so I have placed all the information on one page for now. You may access all subject headings via the links in the Contents section below and some subjects have subheadings which are also linked. So click away.

Contents; 

                                                                                                      Naked Amoeba
Compost Tea

Organic Growing from a Microbial Perspective

So You Wanna Build A Compost Tea Brewer
Who I am
Stuff I'm Selling;
DVD
Microbulator Compost Tea Brewer
Microscopes For Sale
More Helpful Info & Ramblings;
Projects
Tests, Observations & Postulations
Resources & Links
Compost Tea Recipes                                                                                                                         

What is Compost Tea?


Very simply stated Compost Tea is a water-based environment wherein beneficial microorganisms are extracted from compost or vermicompost (worm compost) and multiplied by the millions and billions. Some form of agitation breaks the microbes free from the compost and they multiply because food, like black strap molasses, fish hydrolysate, kelp meal, humic acid, etc. has been added to the water, which at least one type of microbe digests. When one or more type of microbe begins to multiply in response to the food, other microbes respond to this growth and begin to consume these initial microbes and multiply in turn and so on and so on. For example the initial microbes are usually bacteria which are food for protozoa so the protozoa multiply in response to the bacteria. The end result is a functional feeding cycle or microbial nutrient cycle. I refer to this as a functional microbial consortia. This develops over a period of 12 to 72 hours or more and is then applied to the soil and plants. In the soil there are a number of organisms which function in basically the same nutrient cycle and zone. Once again, simply stated, there are substances released from the roots of plants which feed bacteria (& archaea), again the bacteria/archaea become prey to the protozoa and the protozoa excrete substances which are available to the roots as nutrients (e.g. nitrogen) thus creating a feeding cycle. Other compost/soil microorganisms of great importance are fungi. Fungal hyphae, are long branching strands which grow through the soil and serve to; bind soil aggregates together, help retain moisture, store certain nutrients, provide a source of food to certain other microbes, provide pathways for nutrient and moisture delivery, decompose organic material and displace disease causing fungi. There are also other types of fungi which do not grow (to my knowledge) in compost or Compost Tea which form a direct symbiotic nutrient exchange relationship with roots. This sort of fungi is called mycorrhizal fungi and there are many different species. The major microorganisms at work in Compost Tea are bacteria, protozoa (flagellates, ciliates and amoebae) and fungal hyphae if present in your compost. It is best to have a wide diversity of each of these microbes present. There are higher order organisms like nematodes found in compost and soil and occasionally these are extracted into Compost Tea but they do not grow nor multiply in the tea. Of course in the soil there are many other contributors to the nutrient cycle, like insects, earthworms and other animals. In its totality this is often referred to as the soil food web.

Fungal Hyphae (phase contrast)
fungal hyphae1

 All life is in a symbiotic nutrient cycle even down to  the microorganisms contained in our gut  that assist us  to digest certain foods. Life, consumption,  excrement, death, decomposition,  life. You are what  you eat and the same applies to plants.

 It has been discovered that aerated Compost Tea  helps to ensure the multiplication of mostly  aerobic  microbes which are more desirable in this  application. Plus the aeration provides the  agitation  necessary to dislodge the microbes from the compost. Therefore most Compost  Tea machines or brewers, as they are commonly known, involve the introduction of air into  the water and compost.

 Many Compost Tea users and producers have begun examining their brews with microscopes to see the microbes present. This ensures that they have the desired microbes in the right numbers and diversity prior to applying the tea to soil and plants. I am fairly hopeful if not certain that in the future when someone purchases a Compost Tea brewer that the kit will include a microscope. It is the identification of what is going on in this tiny universe where I find my calling.                                                                                 
                                                                                                                                                                                                              
                                                                                                                                                                 Flagellates
  Fungal Hyphae (brightfield)                                               
 fungal hyphae2

Organic Growing from a Microbial Perspective

To come to a rudimentary understanding of how organic or natural growing really works, one must cast off previous miscomprehensions from the chemical model, that when we fertilize or add compost or other organic matter, we are feeding plants. This is not the case. With true organics one is feeding the microorganisms in the soil which convert organic nutrients into a form which can be assimilated by the roots of plants. According to studies, there are only a very few plant species capable of absorbing only a very few organic nutrients. Most plants are only capable of absorbing inorganic nutrients which are made that way by microbes which live at the root to soil interface, the rhizosphere. So the idea which you have, that you are feeding your plants when they appear to need nitrogen and you feed an organic fertilizer deemed high in nitrogen, is bogus. You are feeding the microbes which feed the plants.

Chemical fertilizers, mostly derived from petroleum are inorganic and can be absorbed by the roots of plants, however they are pollutants, which kill beneficial soil microbes, build up unused residues which run into the water table and, in my opinion, create harmful tissue changes in the plants which humans consume as food and medicine. In addition, I believe, the use of chemical fertilizers promote the incidence of plant pathogens like powdery mildew, erwinia, fusarium, pythium, etc. The grower can end up in a vicious spiraling downward fall as they use one chemical after another to control the effects brought on by the others.

The plant is no passive player in the natural growing game of survival but is the master conductor of this delicately balanced orchestra. The plant receives energy from above the soil in the form of light. This photosynthesis results in the plant’s internal production of carbon. It utilizes this carbon to create and reinforce tissue as it grows, so it is a very valuable commodity. As we all know the plant also requires a form of nitrogen (N) and other macro and micro-nutrients which it receives through the root system. As already stated this N must be in a form which the plant can directly uptake and use, usually a form of ammonia (N). Research has shown that when a plant needs to uptake N from the soil it sends out some of its precious carbon through it’s root system as a feed for bacteria and *archaea which live in the rhizosphere. [* Archaea are prokaryotes indiscernible from bacteria except through specialized testing; usually DNA] There are more complexities involved, such as, that certain plant types attract certain bacteria/archaea types but that is beyond the scope of this portrayal. When the bacterial/archaea population has increased in response to the carbons excreted by the roots, protozoa and bacterial feeding nematodes are attracted to the region, ‘hatch out’ from cysts and eggs respectively and in the case of protozoa multiply rapidly. Protozoa consist of flagellates, amoebae and ciliates. Some protozoa can multiply (divide) every 2 to 4 hours so their numbers can increase in short order. The protozoa and nematodes consume the bacteria/archaea and release, as waste, the ammonia (N) which the roots can then absorb. The multiplication rate of the bacteria/archaea increases in response to this predation and so on. This has been called the microbial loop. Protozoa are particularly good providers as their ‘digestive system’ only utilizes about 30% of the nutrients consumed meaning that roughly 70% is released as the waste which the roots crave. This factor, combined with their short generational time makes them real feeding machines. Undoubtedly there are micronutrients also processed and absorbed in this cycle. There are still many mysteries which research has yet to unfold or are not yet known to this author.

This is not the end. The concert continues. The bacteria/archaea also consume the ammonia (N) which is now bioavailable to them, so are in competition with the plant for these nutrients. Because of this, if there are no predators or insufficient numbers to consume the bacteria/archaea they could potentially lock up the N.  When the plant is growing it is in a vegetative state and requires a large load of available nitrogen (N) so it is advantageous for it to continue this release of carbon and maintain a balance of bacteria/archaea and protozoa, while uptaking just the right amounts of nutrients. Don’t get me wrong. There are other players in this orchestra, either playing subdued roles or waiting their turn to play. There are higher order animals like mites, other microarthropods and worms. There are various forms of fungi, most of which are degraders but some of which are mycorrhizal. These all have roles in breaking down organic matter into a form which can then be mineralized by the plant’s bacteria/archaea team or delivered directly to the roots.

When the plant receives its signal from the upper world, above the soil, that it is time to switch gears and produce flowers and or fruit, its nutrient requirement changes. Although the mechanics are not well known to this author, studies indicate that the plant then increases the uptake of the ammonia (N) (bioavailable nitrogen) and reduces or stops excreting the carbon which feeds the bacteria/archaea. This effectively starves the bacteria/archaea which will react by dying or becoming dormant. This of course results in a similar reaction by the protozoa and bacterial feeding nematode population. The mycorrhizal fungi previously mentioned is then triggered into increased growth and production. Studies have indicated that the transference of bioavailable phosphorus and potassium to the roots occur mainly as a function of arbuscular mycorrhizal fungal hyphae in symbiotic relationship with the roots of the plant. The fungal hyphae (microscopic strands) grow right into the root cells and exchange nutrients. In exchange for carbon, once again released by the plant, the fungal hyphae delivers the required bioavailable nutrients to the root system. The fungal structure derives these nutrients from organic matter and food sources in the soil, some naturally processed by the other players as previously mentioned. It is my hypothesis  that the form of carbon released to stimulate the mycorrhizal activity is of a varied molecular structure from that released to promote the bacteria/archaea population previously discussed, however I have no direct data to substantiate this. There are often different types of bacteria which accompany mycorrhizal fungi, adhering to the fungal hyphae in a symbiotic relationship. It is thought that these bacterial species function to exchange nutrients with the fungi as well as to protect the fungal hyphae from consumption by other microbes and even contribute to the protection of the plant from pathogenic fungi. There are other types of mycorrhizal fungi (ectomycorrhizal) which encapsulate roots rather than entering them but these are mostly associated with trees in the temperate and boreal regions.
So you see it is quite a complex arrangement which the plant conducts or controls and there are many facets which yet remain a mystery.   

How to Apply This to Horticultural Activities

You say, okay so that’s how it works but how do I apply that to my growing situation? The answer is pretty simple really. You need to assure that there is organic matter, mostly in the form of composted plant and animal (manure) substances in or on your soil for a microbial inoculant and food source. Additionally you can add microbial foodstocks such as diluted fish hydrolysate and molasses and kelp meal, alfalfa meal and rock phosphate and other clay and rock powders if available. It is very good to include rock phosphate in your composting process if you are making your own. Rock phosphate in the compost adds a long lasting source of phosphorus for microbes to draw from. At time of planting it is highly beneficial to place some mycorrhizal fungi spores in the hole or on the root system. You can research the best strain of fungi for the plants you are growing and purchase the spores from a number of suppliers. [ http://www.mycorrhizae.com   http://www.fungi.com ] You may also consider seeding companion edible mushrooms which provide a dual benefit of cycling nutrients to your plants and providing your breakfast. You may research this at the fungi.com site. The rest is governed by the plant, as previously discussed, assuming that all the necessary components are available from the organic matter and additional foodstocks provided. In my opinion manipulation of the pH is not a wise practice in natural growing unless dramatic acidity or alkalinity are measured. Soil with a healthy microbial population tends to self regulate the pH. One should disturb the soil as little as possible so as to leave fungal growth and strands intact. I realize this is challenging when growing in containers. I have run trials where wooden bins were constructed (2’x3’x1.5’ deep) where soil was successfully left intact after annual plants were harvested and replanted over several seasons. In between plantings composting worms were introduced to help consume the residual dead roots and plant matter. The worms were later trapped out. Compost tea was applied regularly to boost the soil microbial population. Over time there developed something of a miniature ecosystem complete with mushrooms, rove beetles and other beneficial bugs. If you are growing in smaller containers it is a good idea to provide a high volume of quality compost and or vermicompost at the onset.

Some people grow herbs and edible produce in containers organically. Because this has been practiced extensively utilizing chemical fertilizers, there is a period where growers have flushed the soil with copious amounts of water, the thought being that they are removing the harsh or harmful chemicals from the plant tissues. Too late! Those chemicals are already integrated into what you plan to put on your dinner plate or in your medicinal tea or pipe. At least that’s my opinion. If you have grown your produce naturally allowing the plant to be in control, this flushing routine is not only unnecessary but sort of stupid. Since plants are not able to uptake organic nutrients, what exactly would you be flushing away? You might instead be water logging your soil and roots.

Using Compost Tea

The use of compost tea (CT) is one of the best ways to inoculate your soil with the beneficial microbes you wish to have for optimum health of your plants. It is also good if your supply of compost or vermicompost is limited, as it multiplies those microbes, we have been discussing, by the millions. Remember the protozoa I mentioned earlier? Well you can brew an aerated compost tea specifically to have a large population of protozoa, usually mostly flagellates. If you have a good quality compost or vermicompost, protozoa will already be present, often in a resting cyst. If you have an efficient aerated brewer you can pretty much count on having a high flagellate (protozoa) population combined with bacteria/archaea and fungal hyphae (not mycorrhizal) at 42 to 44 hours brew time (65 to 72 degrees F). If you have a microscope you can examine the CT periodically to be sure that the microbial population is optimum. The use of aerated compost tea also provides the opportunity to manipulate microbial populations for specific purposes by using various recipes and brew times. You may wish to have high bacterial or fungal numbers for pathogen/disease control or have soil or plants that require a higher population of a microbial type. I have a lot to learn yet of fungal species which can grow in compost tea so until I have learned to identify the species occurring I’m cautious about some of the tricks employed to stimulate fungal hyphae growth in compost. Better to count on good quality compost and vermicompost with natural occurring quantities and species of fungi and use known mycorrhizal and mushroom spores in the soil.

As always, I am open to correction or refinement of what I have written.

Salutations,
Tim

Some References; 
Email me if you wish to track down these references.

Protozoa and plant growth:  2003;
the microbial loop in soil revisited;     Michael Bonkowski;
Rhizosphere Ecology Group, Institut für Zoologie, Technische Universität Darmstadt,
Darmstadt, Germany

Soil microbial loop and nutrient uptake by plants:     2006
a test using a coupled C:N model of plant–microbial interactions; Xavier Raynaud; Jean-Christophe Lata; Paul W. Leadley Universite´ Paris-Sud XI, France

The mycorrhiza helper bacteria revisited; 2007 P. Frey-Klett, J. Garbaye and M. Tarkka
Interactions Arbres/Micro-organismes, Champenoux, France;
UFZ-Department of Soil Ecology, Helmholz Centre for Environmental
Research, Halle, Germany

Modern Soil Microbiology; 2nd edition 2007 - Chapter 6 - Protozoa and Other Protista in Soil
Marianne Clarholm, Michael Bonkowski, and Bryan Griffiths

So You Wanna Build A Compost Tea Brewer

Terms:
* = degree(s); CT = compost tea; ACT = aerated compost tea; O2 = oxygen; CO2 = carbon dioxide
 DO2 = dissolved oxygen; CFM = cubic feet per minute; PPM = parts per million

There are several ways to make your own compost tea brewer which may not produce the equivalent results to some commercially available models but should provide you with a microbial extract you can apply to your soil and plants. When I first started messing around with brewers, I experimented with what we had lying in our various junk heaps around the farm; cast-offs from buying the wrong part at the plumbing store, outdated irrigation systems, left over pipe, dead vehicles and other modern broken things. Therefore, if you are a junk collector like me, you may already have much of what you require to build a compost tea brewer.

First of all I’d like to make it clear that most aquarium air pumps don’t produce enough air to use in a container larger than 1 gallon when considering making  an aerated brewer. So don’t even try the 5 gallon pail with the aquarium pump idea everybody is passing around. You need a minimum 0.05 CFM  (cubic feet per minute), open flow of air and an optimum 0.08 CFM per gallon (US) or higher to make aerated compost tea (ACT). ACT should have the DO2 sustained at or above 6 PPM. Generally, aquarium pumps produce around 0.02 to 0.16 CFM. Another generality is that 25 watts of power usually produces 0.75 to 1.0 CFM in diaphragm air pumps. The wattage is usually marked on the pump which will help you figure out the approximate output. I’ll cover more on air pumps later.
 
In the following I will outline some simple methods of building a variety of compost tea makers. I am not going to discuss anaerobic methods at this time. Later on I may add some sketches.

1/ Stir Method: The cheapest way to make compost tea is the old fashioned way. Just add compost to clean, non-chlorinated, water (above 65 degrees F. recommended)  and stir like mad with a clean stick or whathaveyou. I’d recommend using about 3 to 5% compost by volume of water and stir it up as often as you can over an 8 to 12 hour period. Some people do it over a 24 hour period and also add some foodstock like molasses, fish hydrolysate and kelp. You can experiment with different times and ingredients and decide for yourself. If you have a microscope, check it out. When you feel that you have a completed compost tea (CT) you can remove it in several ways. If you have just used a 5 gallon pail you can simply let the particulate matter settle and pour the clearer CT off into watering cans or your sprayer.

Filtering;
You can place a submersible pump into a mesh bag as a screen, drop it into the tank (barrel, pail) and pump the CT out. I use a regular cheap sump pump for this with a 800 to 1000 micron mesh bag (about the size of window screen) See the testing I did;
Does Microbial Life Survive Pump Impellers? . You can purchase mesh bags at www.aquaticeco.com or make your own. Likewise, you can filter the CT by placing the same size screen over top of another pail and pour or siphon the CT through the mesh into the other vessel. If residue builds up, stop and clean off the mesh. As residue builds up it stops the passage of the microbes you want. Never run CT through a pipe constrained filter unless essential as part of your irrigation system or spray rig.

2/ The Venturi Method: If you only have a water pump and wish to make a compost tea brewer you can inject air into the water by using a venturi. I have provided a sketch and text showing how to make your own or you can purchase them from http://www.aquaticeco.com . Basically the venturi creates a vacuum which interfaces with the water as it passes by, sucking air and mixing it with the water. It is quite an efficient method of oxygenating water. If you have a really tough water pump which does not clog, like a trash pump, you may run this type of brewer without a mesh extractor bag. Most are going to want to use a mesh extractor, so I recommend TEEing your water line downstream from the venturi with one return line suspended above the water and the other return line going into the mesh extractor. Undoubtedly you will require a valve to regulate the flow so all of the water does not just take the easiest route to the pipe suspended over the water. To build a CT brewer beyond the stir method, some basic knowledge of fitting plumbing parts and pipes together is essential, as well as some engineering instincts. If you are not up for this just save yourself the aggravation and buy a brewer. You may use your imagination for a mesh extractor. For a small brewer of 100 gallons or less, 400 microns is an ideal mesh size. Sometimes for large brewers which may run for several days to establish a functional nutrient cycling consortia a larger mesh size like 800 µm may be a better choice. This is because, as noted above, the mesh may clog up a little over time. A friend of mine successfully brewed CT using this method in a 5000 gallon brewer for many years. He used 2, barrel sized mesh extractor bags sewn from landscape cloth. He ran a return line into each bag, which was ¾  full of compost and tied off each bag tightly around the pipe so nothing could get out the top. These were dropped into the water (with his tractor) and 2 other return pipes pumped in oxygenated water. You can use your imagination to create mesh extractors, dependent on the size of your brewer, the materials at hand and what works for you. You can even create a basket which is partially above the surface to prevent particulate escape. These systems are not great for extracting and growing fungal hyphae but they produce bacteria/archaea and protozoa just fine.

The Gas Exchange;
The reason for suspending the other pipe(s) above the water is so it splashes into the water, breaking the water’s surface tension and additionally pushing more air into the water like a water fall or running river does. The surface tension of water is unique in its toughness; it surpasses that of oil. When I first started experimenting with the venturi method I had the return pipe submerged. The effects were profound. As the water filled with air, generated by the venturi, the water level rose, even over flowing my 1200 gallon tank. At the time, I thought this was a good sign that I was oxygenating the water. Sure, I was getting air in but was not getting the maximum dissolved oxygen possible with my system. Later when I learned that gas exchange means, ‘trading one gas for another’, I realized that the surface tension must be broken for the optimum gas exchange to occur. In this case, we are trading carbon dioxide (CO2) for oxygen (O2) or dissolved oxygen (DO2). CO2 must make way for DO2. In water, CO2 has two ways of being dissipated (of which I am aware). It is either used by organisms, like water plants or it must escape at the surface interface. In a brewer we have no plants and the microbes we are growing use O2 and create CO2, so the CO2 must escape at the surface. Because of the high surface tension of water, if we break the surface, this escape or release is facilitated and we improve the efficiency of our CT brewer.  Once we started suspending the return pipe above the surface, providing a hardy splash to break the surface, we had no further over flows and the DO2 increased. NOTE: This principle applies to air driven brewers as well. The better the surface tension is broken, the better the capacity to contain DO2 in the water.

3/ The Vortex Method: There are many who claim that running water in a vortex pattern comprised of multiple mini vortices changes the properties of water beneficially. I remain dubious but open-minded. You can form your own opinion on this subject. One thing a vortex brewer is very good for is ensuring a full circulation of all the water and compost added. There can be no ‘dead zones’; none of the feared anaerobic pockets!! There is no point to considering the use of a mesh extractor with a vortex brewer unless you conceive of some genius method of suspending a mesh container in the center of the flow. Therefore this design is for those of you who don’t mind using compost in free suspension and deal with the particulate matter later. A vortex action in a CT brewer is pretty much dependent on the shape of the vessel used, combined with the direction of the input flow ‘nozzles’ or pipe ends and finally on the ability of the design to empty from a centrally located opening at the bottom of the vessel and the return of the water emptied, to the top of the vessel, to repeat the trip. Shapewise, you must use a round configured vessel. The most efficient shape is a cone shape with a drain hole at the bottom. Rather than go through a complex description of how to construct an air driven vortex brewer, I’m including this Internet link which illustrates a design by Steven Storch which he has offered up to the public;
http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/turbo-vortex.htm One with engineering instincts will come up with a variety of ways to modify this design. For example this design can be transposed to a 50 gallon sized barrel with a drain hole placed in the bottom. You would of course need a larger air pump and need to set the barrel up on blocks or legs. These systems produce a full compliment of microbes (bacteria/archaea, protozoa and fungal hyphae).

One can also create a vortex brewer using a water pump to return the water to the top of the vessel again. Very handy if that is what you have laying around in your junk pile. The advanced thinkers will have already mindfully jumped to the idea that including a venturi with a water pump driven vortex is going to increase its efficiency exponentially. Well….at least a lot. Give yourself a gold star, a pat on the back, a chocolate cookie. Bear in mind, that if you use a water pump you will limit fungal hyphae extraction and growth.

4/ Bubble Blowers; There are 2 basic styles of commercial bubble blower CT brewers. What I mean by bubble blowers, is that their function depends on just that; blowing bubbles into the water, into a mesh extractor or both. They do not actively move the water, aside from the effect of the bubbles. Because of this, I find it a paradox that they refer to their units as AACT (actively aerated compost tea) brewers to separate themselves from only, aerated compost tea (ACT) brewers, which supposedly just blow air into water. This remains a mystery unto me. I won’t name these brewers because they include almost every commercial brewer available, except mine of course, which should be separated from those by being called an AAACT brewer (giggle). No offense; just kidding around.

Anyway, back to business. A very simple method you can use to make an aerated CT brewer is to use some rigid PVC thin walled pipe (not schedule 40 because it is difficult to make tiny holes in) of approximately ½  inch to ¾ inch size. Rigid pipe is better than flex pipe because it holds its shape, can be cleaned more easily and is easier to drill and saw. Use a straight piece which is approximately as long as your proposed tank is high, joined to a 90* elbow, then following the dimensional circumference of the bottom of your tank build a roughly round hexagon or octagon or whateveragon alternating with PVC fittings (45* or 11*, 22* to 30* if you can find them http://pvcfittings.com ) and short lengths of pipe, terminating just before you hit the elbow which the long pipe slides into. Over the end of this last piece of pipe in your whateveragon slide a cap. None of this needs to be glued (usually) because we are not dealing with high pressure and the whole thing can be taken apart for easy cleaning. We now need three more things. An air supply, an air input interface with the pipe and diffusers. A diffuser is an interface between air and water which ‘diffuses’ of course, air into the water. No matter what name people give it, like orifice or air stone, hole, slit or slot, it is still a diffuser. The smaller the diffuser opening within the capacity of the air pump to push air through easily, the greater the efficiency at raising and maintaining the dissolved oxygen. Therefore you want to put the smallest holes or slits possible at intervals in the short pieces of pipe you used to construct your whateveragon. If you have an electric drill you can drill 1/16th inch holes. You can try cutting slits with a razor knife or very fine hack saw or other blade. A hacksaw cuts around 1000 microns width. I get machined slots which are 254 microns. Make your openings so they are coming out the bottom angled towards the center to begin with. (The pipe is not glued so you can rotate them). For your first trial only put a few air openings in each length of pipe (e.g. 2” spaces). We want the air traveling all the way to the end of the whateveragon. Now to try it out, I guess we better get some air happening.

First of all, for your air input you need to match air tubing with your air pump and get a threaded barbed fitting that the tubing fits over and a slip X female threaded coupling to go over your long straight piece of PVC pipe which goes down and joins to your whateveragon. This, you may need to glue.
I have provided a rudimentary representative sketch to help illustrate the basic construction >click here

A Word About Diaphragm Air Pumps;
If you are going to buy a pump to run your aerated CT brewer, I can recommend the Eco Plus Commercial 5 (4 CFM max.) for up to 50 gallons and the Eco Plus Commercial 1 (1.75 CFM max.) for up to 10 gallons. I’m sorry but I cannot recommend a retailer for these pumps. I buy them wholesale and perhaps if you contact them, they can refer you to a retailer. http://www.nationalgardenwholesale.com
I can also recommend Hailea 9730 pumps (2 CFM max.) which you can purchase from www.aquaticeco.com and other places. These are solid, long lasting pumps and I know other commercial brewers use them for 50 gallons but I just can’t recommend them for more than 30 gallons. If you use one for a 5 gallon unit it will last virtually forever. All of these pumps come with a little threaded brass fitting for screwing into the air output. DO NOT USE THESE! Put them in your parts drawer. These constrict the air and reduce your CFM by at least 20%. Rather, find tubing which slides over the nipple into which the threads are tapped. In the case of the Eco Plus 5 and the Hailea, 5/8ths inside diameter works. Slide the air tubing over and secure with a gear clamp. The Eco Plus has a very short nipple so I score the metal with a couple of swipes with a hacksaw to create barbs for the tubing to grip. You can find tubing at a building supply like Home Depot or Rona in Canada. I use the braided reinforced stuff which does not kink. Always try to keep your pump at or above the surface of the water so it does not siphon back if the power fails.

Now that we have our air supply you can slide the tubing over the barbed fitting air input on the end of your straight piece of PVC and fire her up. Ooops! Forgot the spring clamp. You can use a spring clamp to pinch the long PVC air pipe to the edge of your tank at the top. This keeps the hole thing from floating and you can adjust the distance your whateveragon is from the bottom. Spring clamps are like giant clothes pegs http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,43838&p=41712
http://www.hobbytool.com/springclamps.aspx
I’m sure you can find them at Home Depot too or you may think up another idea (like a ‘C’ clamp).

Okay fire up the pump and fill up your tank (pail, barrel) with water. Watch the amount of air coming out of the openings you made. What we want is air coming out right to the end of the whateveragon and even dispersal all around and we want really broiling water bubbling up to the surface. The reason I suggested angling the openings on the bottom towards the center of the tank is so it would sweep right up from the base. You can raise it closer to the surface to get a better look at how evenly the air is coming out. You can also just put the air tube end in the water, right to the bottom so you can get an idea of your air potential and how much should be coming out of the holes you made. You don’t want to restrict the air flow. If you feel comfortable that you need more air coming out start adding more openings (on top), beginning at the cap end on the top of the pipe and working your way around towards the air input. You’ll get the hang of it. If you screw up, no biggy cause you are using really short pieces of very cheap pipe, not glued and you can redo and experiment to your heart’s content.

This is very similar to the KIS 5 gallon brewer (a very efficient little brewer; buy one if you don't like doing this) so their compost brew kits will be ideal to use with this. You can use this system with compost and feedstock in free suspension (added directly to the water) or in the case of a 5 gallon set up you can probably get away with placing your compost and solid food into a mesh bag tightly tied up and floating around in the water. The turbulence may keep it suspended. You could put some fishing floats or ping pong balls in it to be sure it won’t sink.

If you wish to use an extractor bag with a larger brewer, then you can use a variation of the set up previously described, except that you have a PVC air line entering your (tube/sock shaped) mesh extractor bag with diffuser openings close to the bottom of the bag and with a cap on the end of the pipe. This pipe should go very close to the bottom of the bag. You will need to tie off or fashion a lid for the extractor bag or keep the top above the water surface. As stated previously, 400 microns is the optimum sized mesh to use. You may purchase a variety of mesh bags from http://www.aquaticeco.com  . You can experiment with the number of diffuser openings which provides sufficient agitation. These types of systems depend upon the agitation of the compost against the mesh, caused by the air, to extract the microbes from the compost. Some systems have no additional air diffusion outside of the mesh extractor, while others incorporate one or more additional diffusers. One could TEE off from the air line, one diffuser going into the mesh bag, the other into the water. A valve to regulate the air flow would be necessary in this case. Alternatively one could use two air pumps. One could combine both designs, using a whateveragon diffuser and another pipe going into the mesh extractor.

Diffusers;
One could incorporate good quality glass bonded diffusers if one did not wish to mess with PVC pipes and making their own diffusers. These diffusers are resistant to break down by microbes and can be cleaned with muriatic acid (but are not environmentally friendly to clean). They are called Sweetwater medium bore diffusers and are available at http://www.aquaticeco.com . They are far superior to homemade PVC diffusers in terms of sustaining DO2 because they produce finer bubbles . There is no truth (that I have seen) to the statement that fine bubbles damage some microbes.

Anaerobes;
Many people are overly anxious about having any anaerobic microbes in their CT. If you have a tremendous number of ciliates in your CT, or if it stinks to high heavens, there is a likelihood that your CT has gone anaerobic and you should toss it. However, I would not worry about seeing a healthy number of ciliates (if you have a microscope), especially if there are also high numbers of flagellates and/or amoebae. Additionally anaerobic (facultative and obligate) bacteria and archaea occur naturally in the soil and other environments and their existence is part of the balance of nature so don’t worry if you have a few in your consortia.

Cleaning;
You should clean out your brewer after each use, especially the extractor bag if you use one.

Conversions;
1 US gallon = 3.78 litres (liters)
1 US quart = 0.946 litre (liter)
1 micrometer or micron (µm) = 0.000039 inch (39/100000ths)
For converting mesh to microns: http://chemplazaonline.com/meshsizecoverter.aspx      

I think I’ve covered the basics. If anyone has any suggestions or if you notice any errors, please speak up.


My DVD  dvd set


 I have produced a narrated DVD condensed to 1 hour, 43  minutes from hours and hours of live real  time video  captured through an interface of a Leitz Orthoplan  microscope, a Sony high definition  video camera and a  computer. No film was used in this process. The purpose of  this video is to  assist folks who are using microscopes to  identify the microbes they are observing in their compost,  soil and compost tea.

 It includes some examples of; 1/ what microbes you should  see in a finished compost tea,   
 2/  bacteria, 3/ flagellates, 4/  ciliates, 5/ amoebae (3,4 &5 comprise the three groups of  Protozoa),
 6/ fungal hyphae, 7/ yeast cells,
 8/ nematodes, 9/ rotifers
and 10/ compost examination.

 For those of you without microscopes the DVD offers a  good visual representation of what is going  on in your  Compost Tea and soil.

 The DVD is a set of 2 discs in a case. The cost is $40.00  USD including shipping by mail anywhere  in the USA or  Canada. Quotes will be given for other methods of shipping  or for shipping to other  countries. Wholesale prices are available to distributors. Please email me with your inquiry. Presently  the DVD is available in NTSC format.

 The preferred form of payment is by PayPal. If you are not presently registered with PayPal it is easy,  secure, free and it allows the use of credit cards. I will receive payment immediately and can ship the  DVD right out to you.  If you would prefer to send money by another method please email me at;   thegoodjob@hotmail.com

  PLEASE DO NOT SEND PAYPAL PAYMENTS TO THE ABOVE EMAIL ADDRESS.

Click on the following video link (4.7 MB) to download a 'wmv' (Windows Media Video) to your computer. Depending on your download speed it may take a while. It is an example of what sort of footage is included in the DVD.
Video link

NOTE RE VIDEOS; If you are unable to view the videos and have a Windows operating system, you may need to initiate, dowload or update Windows Media Player.

Please email me to place your order. thegoodjob@hotmail.com

More Video Footage; also wmv; click on link to download.
Vorticella (<5 MB)

Who I am

Tim Wilson
 My name is Tim Wilson. I am a self-taught researcher/scientist. I do not  possess a degree but did study a wide  range of courses at university,  some of them post-graduate courses I was allowed into based on my  knowledge  level at the time. Many of you will know me by my  contributions to the Yahoo Compost Tea discussion forum.  Presently I  reside on a 100+ acre farm in the southern interior of British Columbia,  Canada. I am just north of a  dot on the map called Westbridge.


Other Projects
I have designed a new Compost Tea brewer called the Microbulator 50 which is described below.  It is different from other brewers I have seen, in that the water is actively circulated through a pipe while being charged with air and returned to the tank from an elevated position with use of only an air pump. It sustains a higher than average dissolved oxygen level. It works with or without an extraction bag. 

I hope to produce more helpful DVDs if this first one goes over well. The next project I have in mind is to create a DVD which instructs microscope use specific to the observation of living microbial samples. It will teach some tricks to enhance the images seen with a basic brightfield compound microscope.

Please email me if you have questions or comments at;  thegoodjob@hotmail.com


The Microbulator 50;  A 50 (US) gallon compost tea brewer
{Patents pending in Canada & USA on design and method related to all sizes and configurations.}

Video Clips of Operation
Details & Questions
Purchase & Shipping

Ugly But Efficient & Cheap!

Features:
* Active flow-circulation induced by air alone; 6.3 gallons/minute
* Efficient gas exchange system for excellent dissolved oxygen maintenance
* Works with or without an extractor bag (extractor unit included)
* Two different ways to configure apparatus
* Translucent barrel promotes the growth of phototrophic microorganisms
* 3.5 CFM diaphragm air pump with 1 year warranty
* Can be dismantled and cleaned in under 40 minutes, including the barrel
* Sturdy parts used in manufacture
* Specially designed machine slotted PVC diffusers
* Operational instruction on DVD included
* Inexpensive; $489.00 USD without barrel;  Please inquire if you wish to purchase complete with barrel
* See it in operation > View the video clips below

See the video clips below for microbial data and basic operation.

Details, Details

As of  2007, I am taking orders for the 50 Gallon Microbulator compost tea brewer or as I affectionately call it, a microbe extractor and multiplier (bioreactor). One of my largest obstacles in getting to this point was deciding on a price. My goal from the beginning was to provide an affordable, efficient device geared to the small farmer/grower who doesn’t need the fancy looking brewer, just one that works and is easily cleaned. During the end phase of development and testing I discovered that my device would not work in just any shape of tank so be sure you use a 55 gallon (US) barrel of the correct dimensions. I will provide barrel specs with purchase. I have kept my overall mark-up lower than the norm resulting in a price much lower than similar sized commercial brewers. My price is $489.00 USD without barrel. Other similar sized brewers on the market are much more expensive. Compare for yourself.  People deciding to provide their own container will need to ensure the correct dimensions. These barrels are easily found in all localities.

While visiting Tad Hussey at Keep It Simple Inc. (compost tea brewers) in Seattle, I showed him video footage of the Microbulator 50 operating. He commented that it might be ‘not pretty enough’ for some consumers. When I told him my expected price range he coined the phrase ‘ugly and cheap’. I decided to incorporate that into my sales pitch mantra ‘Ugly but Cheap and Efficient’. After all; the beauty of a John Deere tractor is in the eye of the beholder but as we farmers all know ‘nothing runs like Deere’.  Tad has decided to offer the Microbulator 50 through his website. He is also selling a specialized nutrient pack (Pro Kit) and compost just for this brewer.

The Microbulator 50 works with or without an extractor bag. That decision is the owner’s, based on the planned uses, application method and coarseness of the compost used.

Now, how does this work and what makes it different than other commercial brewers on the market?

My design, unlike other commercial brewers I have seen, does not just blow air into water or into the extractor bag but actively circulates the water while charging it with oxygen. This is done using only an air pump. No water pump is involved. This is accomplished by a diffuser housing fixture I designed and built which incorporates the diffuser inside an 1 ½  inch PVC pipe [1.25 inch industry size]. The whole 50 gallons of water is cycled through this pipe every 8 minutes at a measured flow rate of at least 6.3 gallons per minute. The water is drawn from two opposing sides of the bottom of the tank, pushed past the diffuser, while being injected with O2, up the pipe and through the return nozzle suspended about 2 to 5 inches above the water’s surface, falling back into the liquid, pushing O2 into the water by breaking the surface tension barrier, facilitating the release of CO2 from the tank and the absorption of O2 (gas exchange). This is not unlike the action of a waterfall or flow form. This action pushes the oxygenated water into the body of water further raising the dissolved oxygen content. Because the water intake openings are located at opposing sides at the bottom of the barrel, a current-like flow is created and maintained so any still areas of water are highly unlikely. The release of CO2 is essential to create space in water for the absorption of dissolved oxygen and the only way for CO2 to be released in a CT brewer is through the surface. At the same time a large slotted PVC diffuser is infusing the whole body of water with air.  Oxygen is absorbed by the interface of the bubbles created on the way to the surface and the surface tension barrier is broken again by the bubble turbulence, allowing the further release of carbon dioxide and the maintenance of dissolved oxygen. By this means, there are three interfaces where O2 is being injected into the water or compost tea.

This highly efficient yet very simple method is generally able to raise and maintain the dissolved oxygen (DO2) content of fresh well water having a TDS/EC of 21 to 30 PPM and temperature of 18 C to 21 C (65 F – 70 F) at least 3 PPM (parts per million) above the natural DO2. Using the same water within the same temperature range, with; 4% compost/vermicompost, 0.75% black strap molasses, 0.25% kelp meal and 0.063% fish hydrolysate, the DO2 is maintained at 8.8 to 9.8 PPM up to a 48 hour brew time. Please note that these are maximum amounts of compost inputs and not recommended for people brewing without microscopes.

The circulating action, the force of impact with the water’s surface along with the air from diffusers provides sufficient agitation to break the microbes loose from their binding spots in the compost. The continuous flow provides a more homogeneous dispersal of oxygen and microbes, avoiding still water areas where potential undesired microbial life may develop. Once free swimming or bound to smaller particles, the bacteria, archaea, yeast cells and fungal hyphae graze on the feed supplied and multiply or grow.

Maintaining a reasonably high rate of dissolved oxygen in the body of water is essential to the device’s efficiency for extracting and multiplying the beneficial aerobic microbes, consisting of; archaea, bacteria, fungal hyphae, flagellates, amoebae, some ciliates, yeast cells and yeast fungal hyphae. Because of the constant cycling, microbes are fairly evenly distributed throughout the tank. To get a sample, simply hold a container under the return nozzle.

With Extractor Unit;
The Microbulator can be used in free suspension or with mesh extractor bag configurations. A specifically designed diffuser is used in the bag while the internal diffuser continues circulating the water/tea breaking the surface tension. Both configurations are good for multi-purpose compost tea but using the extractor radically reduces particulate matter in the tea and is good to use for foliar disease suppression. The extractor should be used if you are using coarse compost with pieces between 1/2 inch and 1 inch cubed. See the demo video below.

The highest microbial numbers are going to be developed using the device configured for the compost placed in free suspension but if one requires the extractor for a reduction in particulate matter this configuration provides a comparative alternative.

Free Suspension;
On the farm we usually use the Microbulator 50 without the extractor, remove the apparatus once the brew is complete, allowing the particles to settle to the bottom, lower in a submersible pump just above the level of the spent compost/particles and pump out the clearer compost tea. Alternatively one can place the pump in a mesh bag (fly screen size) and drop it in or simply scoop out the compost tea with a pail or watering can. Afterwards dump out the thick leftover slurry onto your soil or compost pile. If you are using vermicompost any worm eggs/capsules/cases remaining will still hatch once in the soil or in a non-hot compost pile.

What did you use and why?

Pump: I settled on the Eco Plus Commercial diaphragm operated air pump. I was first using the Hailea 9730 (rated at 60 LPM) but the air flow was just not strong enough to support 50 gallons of compost tea and it is only warrantied for 6 months. The Eco Plus puts out a whopping 3.4 to 3.6 CFM (<>100 LPM) configured the way we use it. The flow on each pump is tested with our flow meter prior to being shipped. On top of this the pump is warrantied for one year and replacement parts are available if it does quit. It is a little noisier (the price of power) and because it is lighter it wants to vibrate around. To cease the wandering and help with the noise I’ve included a little rubber damper mat with each kit.
IMPORTANT NOTE: I did not use a check valve for the pump because it prohibits air flow so the pump must be placed above or at the same level of the water surface to prevent back flow if there is a power outage or the pump is turned off.

The Air Tubing; The air tubing is heavy duty 7/8 inch braid reinforced clear vinyl. I tried the regular clear stuff but it kinked too much and wore quickly. Each kit includes enough tubing for the device to insert into the barrel plus 6 feet for lead to the pump. You can decide where to place the pump and trim the excess accordingly. Remember the pump must be above or at the same level of the water surface.

Clamps: We have, as of January 2009, started using stainless steel pinch clamps permanently affixed, combined with stainless steel gear clamps.

Air Control Valve; I used a brass plumbing valve to control the air flow between the large diffuser and return flow nozzle. I tried cheaper plastic valves but they didn’t cut it.

Piping; I decided on PVC pipe because it is inexpensive, easy to clean, can be fitted together without glue in low pressure applications like this or can be glued when necessary (as are a few of the pieces). I am using 1 ¼ inch diameter pipe because it is the right size to accommodate the flow needed for the 50 gallon brewer. One small disadvantage is that sometimes when disassembling one must use pliers or vice grips to pull apart a pipe and fitting. NOTE; The industry sizing of the pipe is 1 1/4 inch but the actual diameter is 1 1/2 inches.

Diffusers; As of January 2009, I am using only, machine slotted PVC diffusers which I designed and get cut at a machine shop. Many of you will know that I wanted to stop using the glass bonded stone type diffusers because the muriatic acid used to clean them is not environmentally friendly. Via research over the winter I succeeded, by altering the depth of the slots and lengthening the large diffuser, in improving the PVC diffusers so as to match the dissolved oxygen maintenance of the glass bonded diffusers. The slots are 254 microns in width. There are three of these diffusers included with the brewer.

Brass Fittings:  We use brass fittings throughout, where applicable for purposes of longevity and quality. Where the brass must be adhered to PVC we have used a high grade non toxic epoxy.

Barrel: As mentioned previously please check with me for barrel dimensions and potential sources. I use a translucent barrel, as I believe this encourages the growth of phototrophic microorganisms.

Extractor; The extractor bag we are using is 400 microns mesh size, 24 inches long and 7 inches in diameter. There is a stainless steel supportive ring sewn into the top and a rubberized poly cap, with an entry hole for the diffuser. The unit is hung over the PVC pipe with nylon line.  Replacement bags will be around twelve bucks. I tested many sizes of mesh prior to choosing 400 microns. I tried 200, 250, 300, 400, 800, 1000 microns mesh sizes.

Bungee Cord; A rubber bungee cord is included which holds the unit in place and prevents floating, as it is filled with air charged water. The hooks are the perfect size to secure the positioning of the control valve and large diffuser. This beats trying to use weights inside the tank.

Ongoing Improvements;
As occurred with the slotted diffusers, I will endeavor to apply improvements in structure or function which are discovered. I am planning on getting a custom seamless extractor bag in future.
 
How about cleaning?

The whole unit can be dismantled and cleaned in under twenty minutes. Add ten minutes if you use the bag and another ten for the barrel. The unit should be removed from the compost tea while still pumping air for best results. This prevents back-flow into the diffusers and into the air tubing. While pumping air, particles and bacteria will have a more difficult time entering the air system. The whole unit then pulls apart and can be cleaned quickly with fresh water, a scrub brush or pad and a bottle/pipe cleaner (available at Wal Mart, etc.) If you clean the unit right after use, generally you can use water alone but occasionally you may wish to use hydrogen peroxide or bleach. It is not advised to use bleach on the extractor bag but you may use it on the pipe and tubing. You should not need to clean the inside of the air tubing if you prevent back-flow. The extractor bag should be flushed under fresh water immediately following use and can be hand washed using a peroxide product like Oxy-clean.

What about brew times?

I am confident that the Microbulator 50 will match or surpass any other commercial brewer as far as production of numbers and diversity of microbes and DO2 maintenance, given equal parameters of water, temperature, compost,  foodstock and time. If you wish to brew for 24 hours, the Microbulator will perform appropriately to extract and multiply the expected microbial types and numbers for that brew time. I recommend a brew time of around 36 to 44 hours if you are striving for a functional consortia of nutrient cycling microbes, consisting of bacteria/archaea, fungal hyphae and flagellates and/or amoebae. It is very important to be aware that you need good quality compost/vermicompost and feedstock to get good quality compost tea. Temperature and water quality must also be considered. Really!; there can be so many variables and the best way to know at what hour your microbes are at the optimum level is by microscopic examination. 

Please see the video clips below for data from different brew times.

What are some other benefits of purchasing a Microbulator 50?

All Microbulator 50 owners will have access to recommendations for brewing compost tea for various purposes from me or one of my affiliate businesses KIS  http://www.simplici-tea.com  or Organic Approach Inc. http://www.organicapproach.com  Support will be provided by email and telephone. Owners will be privy to new information gained through my ongoing research concerning, technique, application, disease suppression, microbial activity and recipe development. When I find and start distributing a simple microscope, Microbulator 50 owners will receive a discounted price of purchase. Through the distribution of the little microscope with interface to computer I am hoping to set up a research network of sorts with individuals from different areas, using different compost and having various growing circumstances. The idea is to gather and share direct view microbial data by way of micro-photographs and video.

Do you have different sized brewers or design custom brewers?

I am working on a smaller sized brewer design applicable to the homeowner. It will likely be around 10 gallons in size. My design principle can be applied to pretty much any size of brewer. I use the same operational principle for our 1200 US gallon brewer which we use on our farm. The right sized air pump, diffusers, pipe, etc. must be calculated in accordance to the CFM per volume/depth of water.

I am open to customizing designs for large on farm applications. Just drop me an email if this interests you. I have done a couple of these now and because of the time involved I must charge a minimum $500.00 USD for this service and a negotiated fee over a certain number of hours expended.

Purchase & Shipping

I presently am limited to receiving payment by Paypal, cleared check or bank transfer. Paypal allows payment by credit card or through your bank. I believe this service is still free. If you wish to arrange  a purchase please email me at thegoodjob@hotmail.com 
Note: My Paypal account is not associated with this email address.


Units are shipped by insured mail. 

The Microbulator 50 is now also available for purchase through Keep It Simple Brewers at  http://www.simplici-tea.com            


Where is your data?

I’m a great believer in pictures as documentation and exhibition so I have posted some video clips here which show the Microbulator 50 in operation and some microscopic videos recording the microbes extracted and grown at several different brew times. The videos are viewed using Windows Media Player which comes with most PC operating systems. You need to download them to watch and it may take some time based on your computer and Internet connection. In many cases I have offered a choice of high or low resolution clips. Obviously if you have a very slow connection choose the smaller file.

Video Clips
In Operation;
The Microbulator 50 demo video; 10 MB  or a smaller version at 7 MB 

Microbes;

Video Data for The Microbulator 50; April, 2008

Without The Extractor - Free Suspension Configuration;
The following video clips were shot to record microbial extraction and multiplication at varying time periods of a brew while using the Microbulator 50 in the free suspension configuration, that is with 4.5 liters of vermicompost and solid feedstock added directly to the water without the use of the extractor. Our own vermicompost was used which was fed a base of very old cow manure/wood shavings compost, sphagnum peat moss and kitchen scraps. Both brews were started at a temperature of around 18 C (65F). In the first brew the vermicompost was not mixed with anything to activate it. For the second brew the vermicompost was mixed with oat flour 20:1 and covered for around 120 hours prior to using it. Both brews maintained great DO2 levels to 60 hours; Brew #1 – 9.0 PPM DO2; Brew #2 – 8.9 PPM DO2. 
I do not recommend brewing for 60 hours and longer unless you have the instruments to check your brew or unless circumstances dictate the necessity. I have however included video footage recorded at this time period.

I am very pleased with the results demonstrated by the brewer as well as our by vermicompost. The following video clips are narrated and fairly self explanatory.

Microbial Identification:

In one instance I refer to an amoeba as naked, although I’m not entirely sure whether it has a shell (test) or not. I am researching to identify it. You will see some flagellates which are joined together like a bunch of balloons. These may be Choanoflagellida Salpingoecidae (diploeca) or Kinetoplastida Bodonidae Cephalothamnium cyclopum or of a related group within the major Mastigophora group.

NOTE RE VIDEOS; If you are unable to view the videos and have a Windows operating system, you may need to initiate, dowload or update Windows Media Player.

Please click the links below to download video clips. In most cases there is a choice of a large higher resolution file followed by a smaller lower resolution file.

Brew #1 Vermicompost Free Suspension; Not mixed with Oat Flour; 
10 hours 6.5 MB
     or      2.8 MB                                      
18 hours clip 1; 10 MB  or  4.4 MB     
18 hours clip 2; 7.3 MB  or   3.2 MB       
18 hours clip 3; 5 MB                       

36 hours 9.5 MB  or  4.2 MB                                                                                                                        

42 hours 7 MB  or    3.1 MB                           

60 hours 12 MB  (large)  or   5.2 MB                                 

Brew #2 Vermicompost Free Suspension; Mixed with Oat Flour
10 hours 5 MB                                                                                        

18&36 hours 6 MB

42 hours clip 1;  7.5 MB
          or            3.3 MB                                      
42 hours clip 2; 5.9 MB   

60 hours  6.2 MB                       

With The Extractor;
The video clips below illustrate the microbial densities at various time periods in a compost tea using the Microbulator 50 configured with the mesh extractor bag in place. In this configuration the large PVC diffuser was placed inside the mesh extractor while the return nozzle still splashed oxygenated water/tea onto/into the surface. Both brews included the use of our vermicompost which had been mixed 20:1 with oat flour and covered for about 120 hours prior to use. The video clips are narrated as before.

Brew #1 was made using our vermicompost with fish hydrolysate and kelp added.
DO2 at 60 hours - 8.9 PPM

10 hours  4 MB
18 hours  5 MB
36 hours  8 MB  or  4 MB
42&60 hours  5 MB

Brew #2 was made using our vermicompost with fish hydrolysate, kelp meal and black strap molasses. Adding the molasses was kind of an impulsive afterthought and for a regular brew I probably would not repeat this when also using fish when the compost has been treated with (fed) oat flour. There was an over abundance of feedstock resulting in a very high bacteria/archaea population. The result was a brew which took 60 hours to consume the feedstock and complete. It was interesting though and definitely microbially rich. DO2 at 60 hours – 7.3 PPM

10 hours  10 MB  or  5 MB
18&36&42 hours  9 MB  or  4 MB
60 hours  7 MB  or  4 MB  

Other Batches with different Compost; 2007

Compost tea batch #1 at 22 to 24 hour brew time; 11 MB (high res); 5 MB (low res)
                                      at 44 hours; 4 MB
Compost tea batch #2 at 46 hours; clip 1; 8 MB (high res); 4 MB (low res)
                                                           Clip 2; 5 MB (med res)
                                                           Clip 3; 8 MB (high res); 4 MB (low res)
                                                           Clip 4; 10 MB (high res); 5 MB (low res)     

Microscopes For Sale

SEE UPDATE BELOW!
Today is April 30, 2009 and finally I am approaching the point of having affordable  microscopes to sell. I have been working with several microscope bodies which I imported from China and  have settled on two models which I will be selling through this webpage. I have been working for 2 months to create custom filters to enhance the images viewed through the microscopes and am now satisfied with the results. Each microscope will come with these custom designed filters as well as a custom made 20X objective which the manufacturer made for me. The enhancement produces images which are similar to those seen using phase contrast and differential interference contrast (3D). The effects are particularly effective with the large scope using the 20X objective as you can see in the video footage posted below.

The brightfield images are very good, equivalent to or better than higher priced microscopes like the Leica CME. The brightfield (true) resolution is actually somewhat better than when using the enhancement devices. The enhancement effects refraction and diffraction of light with the use of different colors as well as black to block certain portions of light. This provides a contrast making the subjects stand out more to the human eye. The method I have used is, I believe different than that previously employed by other microscopists so I’ll regard it as proprietary, at least for now.

Each microscope will also come with a DVD produced by myself teaching the use of the microscope, general microscopy and some compost and compost tea observational techniques. There will be extras available for additional charges, such as a 3X multiplier lens, 100X (oil) objective, carrying case and plan achromatic objectives. I am also working on a camera.

My goal, like my other endeavors has been to provide a functional yet inexpensive quality microscope to support microbial based horticulture which I believe is of great benefit to the farmer, landscaper and home gardener. I maintain it to be just as much a tool as a shovel, hoe or lawn mower.

When are they available? I will be putting in a bulk order for a shipment from China around May 9th. I am working on arranging for some minor improvements from the manufacturer and I’m hoping to receive some feedback from folks as to what model they wish to order. I don’t want a boat load of small scopes if everyone wants the full size ones. They will likely be in stock around the middle of June. All microscopes will be personally inspected by me prior to shipping. The manufacturer is offering a one year warranty but I will extend it to two years on the full size scope. I’ll swap them out if there is a problem.

I apologize for being a month behind but a hand injury took me out of the lab for a month.

If you want to be on the list for a particular model please email me ASAP at thegoodjob@hotmail.com

UPDATE: June 4th 2009; The microscopes are shipping by sea on June 9th which means I'll be able to start sending out your orders at the end of June. The camera sample I got was not up to my standards in quality so I'm working on other avenues as I can afford to. The carrying case is too expensive once shipping is factored in so I'm looking for a North American source where you can order from. I have a limited number of 3X multiplier lenses ($28) so those who want these included in their purchase, let me know ASAP so I can get more if needed.

As far as the camera goes, I'm hoping to find a good quality  camcorder with an optical zoom lens and build my own adapter and/or carry Martin adapters. This is going to take some time and money to work out.

Regarding the extras;

1/ I personally don’t see the value in a 100X oil immersion objective for general soil/compost microbe examination but I will order a few for you enthusiasts out there.
2/ The multiplier lens I’m carrying is a great investment and is priced at $28.
3/ No doubt that the plan achromatic objectives will produce superior brightfield images but the working distance is shorter and I have yet to work up enhancement devices for them. The price for a set (4X, 10X, 20X, 100X) will be around $200.
4/ The carrying case I’m unsure of so far. I need to know that the manufacturer is providing an aluminum case filled with form-fitted foam sufficient to ship the scopes in. If I got them shipped separately (without scopes in them) the freight costs would push the price higher than you all could get cases elsewhere. The way the scopes are packed now is fabulous.
5/ Cameras; I’m getting a lot of inquiries on this subject. As I’ve said before, the best thing you can get if you have the money is a HD camcorder with a firewire, HDMI or USB interface with a computer. I spent a fortune on my setup. I am trying to find a cheap alternative. I have a sample coming in the mail which is a new CMOS chip USB cam which slides into the camera port. I’m trying to work on adapting a webcam and I’m searching for a manufacturer who can make something to my specs (this one is least likely).

Descriptions:


Small Scope:
This is a good quality scope and produces images completely adequate to assessing soil and compost (tea) microbes. It is not a full size scope.

Dual view; monocular and camera port
Eyepieces: 20 mm widefield 10X & 16X
Achromatic Objectives: 10X, 20X, 40X
Mechanical Stage
Coaxial Course & Fine Focus
Metal Gears
Abbe Condenser 1.25 N.A. with swing-out filter holder; rack & pinion adjustment
Lamp; 20 watt halogen; adjustable intensity

Price; $300 USD

Full Size Scope:
This is a nice heavy microscope with a wide base for stability. The optics are very nice for such an inexpensive scope (superior to the small scope) and the brass gears are a nice bonus. With proper care it should perform for years.

Trinocular; binocular with camera port; nice inter-pupil adjustment; extra adapters for camera port
Eyepieces: 20 mm extra widefield 10X & widefield 16X
Achromatic Objectives: 4X, 10X, 20X, 40X
Mechanical Stage (much larger than small scope)
Coaxial Course & Fine Focus; 0.02 mm increments
Brass Gears
Abbe Condenser 1.25 N.A. with swing-out filter holder; rack & pinion adjustment
Lamp; 20 watt halogen; adjustable intensity

Price; $600 USD

Anyway, here is the full size scope;
                                                 

      largescope1              largescopefront                                                                                                                                         

                                                                                
Brightfield Images
Here is brightfield video footage shot through the microscope. Be aware that looking down the eyepiece and microscope tube is always higher quality than with a camera; also the camera magnifies the image and reduces the field of view by about 1/3rd.

4X objective 3MB        10X objective(a) 4MB       10X objective(b) 3MB      20X objective 4MB      40X objective(a) 3MB    40X objective(b)  4MB

Enhanced Images; 
Here is some enhanced image video footage shot through the microscope using my proprietary method and some others. The 20X objective images are most impressive and the number one feature of the scope. 

20X  objective  a/ 4MB    b/ 3MB    c/ 4MB    d/ 4MB    e/ 3MB   :     10X objective    a/  4MB    b/  2MB

Photos through full size scope;
  
                                                                                             
        

 
                                                                                                               
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               


Here is the small scope and the two side by side;

   smallscope            twoscopes                                                                                                                                     
Brightfield Images;  (Small Scope)
Here is brightfield video footage shot through the microscope. Be aware that looking down the eyepiece and microscope tube is always higher quality than with a camera; also the camera magnifies the image and reduces the field of view by about 1/3rd.

10X objective  4MB            20X objective  a/  3MB   b/  3MB           40X objective   4MB                                       

Enhanced Images; (Small Scope) Please note that because I had Sphagnum Peat leaves with sharp features available when working with the small scope, it may appear that I had greater resolution with the small scope. This is not the case. I will ad more images shot through the large scope shortly.
Here is some enhanced image video footage shot through the microscope using my proprietary method and some others.

10X objective  a/  2MB   b/  2MB         20X objective  3MB         40X objective  a/  4MB   b/  3MB

Photos through small scope;
Four variances; Brightfield, Shift Phase, Rheinberg, Darkfield (10X objective)
 
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           
                                                                                                                                                               
 Brightfield & Enhanced                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      
    
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      


Tests, Observations & Postulations

Subcontents:

A look; Sphagnum Peat & Alaska Magic
Do Microbes Survive Impeller Pumps?
Yelm Brewer Trials and Lab Tests
Terracycle Plant Food Examination

 
Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss & Alaska Magic (Humus);

Here is a look at a sample of Canadian Sphagnum peat moss Premier brand and a sample of Alaska Magic which is purported to be humus from Alaska. Both were purchased in Washington State and I examined them in a temporary lab situation using my portable microscope and laptop computer. In the first set of video clips we see the samples hydrated with distilled water and spread out on a microscope slide to have a look at the leaf and cell structure. In the narration for the Sphagnum peat moss I mistakenly describe it as 20X magnification (I meant the 20X objective) when it is actually 250X plus the camera lens effect. You can see that the two plant substances appear virtually identical which leads me to hypothesize that, although they may come from different geographical locations, they are both primarily composed of the same matter. I can provide lengthier and more inclusive video clips to interested parties. I do apologize for the variance in volume on the video clips. Please note that they may take some time to download to your computer and they play in Windows Media Player.

Click here (9.46 MB) to view the Canadian Sphagnum peat moss sample or here (4.15 MB) for a smaller version.
Click here (7.52 MB) to view the Alaska Magic sample.

In the second set of video clips we see footage of samples of Sphagnum peat moss and Alaska Magic mixed with distilled water and a couple of drops of black strap molasses to ‘wake up’ the organisms and left to sit. The Sphagnum footage was captured at 42 hours and the Alaska M