Microbe Organics
Ciliate
Contact: thegoodjob@hotmail.com
Microbe Organics? What the heck is this?; You ask. It is the name I
chose to describe my approach to the understanding and interpretation
of microbial based soil and plant amendments currently evolving in
horticultural practices throughout the world. Two such practices which
you may have heard of or use yourself are Compost Tea and EM (Effective
Microorganisms {EMRO USA} or Beneficial and Effective
Microorganisms{SCD}; 2 Brand Names). I will be focusing to begin with
on the practical analysis and use of Compost Tea.
I am initiating
this website in July of 2007 to coincide with the release of a DVD I
produced to assist with the identification microscopically of the major
beneficial microbes at work in compost, soil and Compost Tea.
I am not an
expert in this field of biology, in fact I am a lifelong student and
will defer to the far superior overall knowledge of several experts in
microbial based amendments, however what I have to offer is a
translation or simplification of many of the terms, functions and
observations surrounding this science. The reason I am able to do this
is mostly due to my ‘I have to see it to believe it or comprehend
it’ attitude. When I first started researching microbial based
agriculture about six years ago I set up a small microscope laboratory
enabling me to observe the microorganisms present in Compost Tea,
microbial fermentations (e.g. EM), compost and soil. I set up an
interface between a video camera, microscope and computer thus allowing
me to capture real time video which has culminated thus far in the
production of my first DVD.
Like the
science which this growing (pun intended) phenomenon is based upon,
this website will evolve over time. I will post links to sources of
knowledge, supplies and practical solutions as I acquire permission to
do so and as I learn of them. As I gain more skill managing this site I
hope to post video footage of observations and experiments. Therefore
keep checking back for updates.
Using This Page: I
have a dislike for websites where one must wait for pages to load so I
have placed all the information on one page for now. You may access all
subject headings via the links in the Contents section below and some
subjects have subheadings which are also linked. So click away.
Contents;
Compost Tea
Organic Growing from a Microbial Perspective
So You Wanna Build A Compost Tea Brewer
Who I am
Stuff I'm Selling;
DVD
Microbulator Compost Tea Brewer
Microscopes For Sale
More Helpful Info & Ramblings;
Projects
Tests, Observations & Postulations
Resources & Links
Compost Tea Recipes
What is Compost Tea?
Very simply
stated Compost Tea is a water-based environment wherein beneficial
microorganisms are extracted from compost or vermicompost (worm
compost) and multiplied by the millions and billions. Some form of
agitation breaks the microbes free from the compost and they multiply
because food, like black strap molasses, fish hydrolysate, kelp meal, humic acid, etc. has been added to the water,
which at least one type of microbe digests. When one or more type of
microbe begins to multiply in response to the food, other microbes
respond to this growth and begin to consume these initial microbes and
multiply in turn and so on and so on. For example the initial microbes
are usually bacteria which are food for protozoa so the protozoa
multiply in response to the bacteria. The end result is a functional
feeding cycle or microbial nutrient cycle. I refer to this as a
functional microbial consortia. This develops over a period of 12 to 72
hours or more and is then applied to the soil and plants. In the soil
there are a number of organisms which function in basically the same
nutrient cycle and zone. Once again, simply stated, there are substances
released from the roots of plants which feed bacteria (& archaea), again the
bacteria/archaea become prey to the protozoa and the protozoa excrete
substances which are available to the roots as nutrients (e.g. nitrogen)
thus creating a feeding cycle. Other compost/soil microorganisms of
great importance are fungi. Fungal hyphae, are long branching strands
which grow through the soil and serve to; bind soil aggregates
together, help retain moisture, store certain nutrients, provide a
source of food to certain other microbes, provide pathways for nutrient
and moisture delivery, decompose organic material and displace disease
causing fungi. There are also other types of fungi which do not grow
(to my knowledge) in compost or Compost Tea which form a direct
symbiotic nutrient exchange relationship with roots. This sort of fungi
is called mycorrhizal fungi and there are many different species. The
major microorganisms at work in Compost Tea are bacteria, protozoa
(flagellates, ciliates and amoebae) and fungal hyphae if present in your compost. It is best to
have a wide diversity of each of these microbes present. There are
higher order organisms like nematodes found in compost and soil and
occasionally these are extracted into Compost Tea but they do not grow
nor multiply in the tea. Of course in the soil there are many other
contributors to the nutrient cycle, like insects, earthworms and other
animals. In its totality this is often referred to as the soil food
web.
Fungal Hyphae (phase contrast)
All life
is in a symbiotic nutrient cycle even down to the microorganisms
contained in our gut that assist us to digest certain
foods. Life, consumption, excrement, death, decomposition,
life. You are what you eat and the same applies to plants.
It has
been discovered that aerated Compost Tea helps to ensure the
multiplication of mostly aerobic microbes which are more
desirable in this application. Plus the aeration provides the
agitation necessary to dislodge the microbes from the
compost. Therefore most Compost Tea machines or brewers, as they
are commonly known, involve the introduction of air into the
water and compost.
Many
Compost Tea users and producers have begun examining their brews with
microscopes to see the microbes present. This ensures that they have
the desired microbes in the right numbers and diversity prior to
applying the tea to soil and plants. I am fairly hopeful if not certain
that in the future when someone purchases a Compost Tea brewer that the
kit will include a microscope. It is the identification of what is
going on in this tiny universe where I find my calling.
Fungal Hyphae (brightfield)
Organic Growing from a Microbial Perspective
To come to a rudimentary understanding of how organic or natural
growing really works, one must cast off previous miscomprehensions from
the chemical model, that when we fertilize or add compost or other
organic matter, we are feeding plants. This is not the case. With true
organics one is feeding the microorganisms in the soil which convert
organic nutrients into a form which can be assimilated by the roots of
plants. According to studies, there are only a very few plant species
capable of absorbing only a very few organic nutrients. Most plants are
only capable of absorbing inorganic nutrients which are made that way
by microbes which live at the root to soil interface, the rhizosphere.
So the idea which you have, that you are feeding your plants when they
appear to need nitrogen and you feed an organic fertilizer deemed high
in nitrogen, is bogus. You are feeding the microbes which feed the
plants.
Chemical fertilizers, mostly derived from petroleum are inorganic and
can be absorbed by the roots of plants, however they are pollutants,
which kill beneficial soil microbes, build up unused residues which run
into the water table and, in my opinion, create harmful tissue changes
in the plants which humans consume as food and medicine. In addition, I
believe, the use of chemical fertilizers promote the incidence of plant
pathogens like powdery mildew, erwinia, fusarium, pythium, etc. The
grower can end up in a vicious spiraling downward fall as they use one
chemical after another to control the effects brought on by the others.
The plant is no passive player in the natural growing game of survival
but is the master conductor of this delicately balanced orchestra. The
plant receives energy from above the soil in the form of light. This
photosynthesis results in the plant’s internal production of
carbon. It utilizes this carbon to create and reinforce tissue as it
grows, so it is a very valuable commodity. As we all know the plant
also requires a form of nitrogen (N) and other macro and
micro-nutrients which it receives through the root system. As already
stated this N must be in a form which the plant can directly uptake and
use, usually a form of ammonia (N). Research has shown that when a
plant needs to uptake N from the soil it sends out some of its precious
carbon through it’s root system as a feed for bacteria and
*archaea which live in the rhizosphere. [* Archaea are prokaryotes
indiscernible from bacteria except through specialized testing; usually
DNA] There are more complexities involved, such as, that certain plant
types attract certain bacteria/archaea types but that is beyond the
scope of this portrayal. When the bacterial/archaea population has
increased in response to the carbons excreted by the roots, protozoa
and bacterial feeding nematodes are attracted to the region,
‘hatch out’ from cysts and eggs respectively and in the
case of protozoa multiply rapidly. Protozoa consist of flagellates,
amoebae and ciliates. Some protozoa can multiply (divide) every 2 to 4
hours so their numbers can increase in short order. The protozoa and
nematodes consume the bacteria/archaea and release, as waste, the
ammonia (N) which the roots can then absorb. The multiplication rate of
the bacteria/archaea increases in response to this predation and so on.
This has been called the microbial loop. Protozoa are particularly good
providers as their ‘digestive system’ only utilizes about
30% of the nutrients consumed meaning that roughly 70% is released as
the waste which the roots crave. This factor, combined with their short
generational time makes them real feeding machines. Undoubtedly there
are micronutrients also processed and absorbed in this cycle. There are
still many mysteries which research has yet to unfold or are not yet
known to this author.
This is not the end. The concert continues. The bacteria/archaea also
consume the ammonia (N) which is now bioavailable to them, so are in
competition with the plant for these nutrients. Because of this, if
there are no predators or insufficient numbers to consume the
bacteria/archaea they could potentially lock up the N. When the
plant is growing it is in a vegetative state and requires a large load
of available nitrogen (N) so it is advantageous for it to continue this
release of carbon and maintain a balance of bacteria/archaea and
protozoa, while uptaking just the right amounts of nutrients.
Don’t get me wrong. There are other players in this orchestra,
either playing subdued roles or waiting their turn to play. There are
higher order animals like mites, other microarthropods and worms. There
are various forms of fungi, most of which are degraders but some of
which are mycorrhizal. These all have roles in breaking down organic
matter into a form which can then be mineralized by the plant’s
bacteria/archaea team or delivered directly to the roots.
When the plant receives its signal from the upper world, above the
soil, that it is time to switch gears and produce flowers and or fruit,
its nutrient requirement changes. Although the mechanics are not well
known to this author, studies indicate that the plant then increases
the uptake of the ammonia (N) (bioavailable nitrogen) and reduces or
stops excreting the carbon which feeds the bacteria/archaea. This
effectively starves the bacteria/archaea which will react by dying or
becoming dormant. This of course results in a similar reaction by the
protozoa and bacterial feeding nematode population. The mycorrhizal
fungi previously mentioned is then triggered into increased growth and
production. Studies have indicated that the transference of
bioavailable phosphorus and potassium to the roots occur mainly as a
function of arbuscular mycorrhizal fungal hyphae in symbiotic
relationship with the roots of the plant. The fungal hyphae
(microscopic strands) grow right into the root cells and exchange
nutrients. In exchange for carbon, once again released by the plant,
the fungal hyphae delivers the required bioavailable nutrients to the
root system. The fungal structure derives these nutrients from organic
matter and food sources in the soil, some naturally processed by the
other players as previously mentioned. It is my hypothesis that
the form of carbon released to stimulate the mycorrhizal activity is of
a varied molecular structure from that released to promote the
bacteria/archaea population previously discussed, however I have no
direct data to substantiate this. There are often different types of
bacteria which accompany mycorrhizal fungi, adhering to the fungal
hyphae in a symbiotic relationship. It is thought that these bacterial
species function to exchange nutrients with the fungi as well as to
protect the fungal hyphae from consumption by other microbes and even
contribute to the protection of the plant from pathogenic fungi. There
are other types of mycorrhizal fungi (ectomycorrhizal) which
encapsulate roots rather than entering them but these are mostly
associated with trees in the temperate and boreal regions.
So you see it is quite a complex arrangement which the plant conducts
or controls and there are many facets which yet remain a mystery.
How to Apply This to Horticultural Activities
You say, okay so that’s how it works but how do I apply that to
my growing situation? The answer is pretty simple really. You need to
assure that there is organic matter, mostly in the form of composted
plant and animal (manure) substances in or on your soil for a microbial
inoculant and food source. Additionally you can add microbial
foodstocks such as diluted fish hydrolysate and molasses and kelp meal,
alfalfa meal and rock phosphate and other clay and rock powders if
available. It is very good to include rock phosphate in your composting
process if you are making your own. Rock phosphate in the compost adds
a long lasting source of phosphorus for microbes to draw from. At time
of planting it is highly beneficial to place some mycorrhizal fungi
spores in the hole or on the root system. You can research the best
strain of fungi for the plants you are growing and purchase the spores
from a number of suppliers. [ http://www.mycorrhizae.com
http://www.fungi.com ] You may also consider seeding companion edible
mushrooms which provide a dual benefit of cycling nutrients to your
plants and providing your breakfast. You may research this at the
fungi.com site. The rest is governed by the plant, as previously
discussed, assuming that all the necessary components are available
from the organic matter and additional foodstocks provided. In my
opinion manipulation of the pH is not a wise practice in natural
growing unless dramatic acidity or alkalinity are measured. Soil with a
healthy microbial population tends to self regulate the pH. One should
disturb the soil as little as possible so as to leave fungal growth and
strands intact. I realize this is challenging when growing in
containers. I have run trials where wooden bins were constructed
(2’x3’x1.5’ deep) where soil was successfully left
intact after annual plants were harvested and replanted over several
seasons. In between plantings composting worms were introduced to help
consume the residual dead roots and plant matter. The worms were later
trapped out. Compost tea was applied regularly to boost the soil
microbial population. Over time there developed something of a
miniature ecosystem complete with mushrooms, rove beetles and other
beneficial bugs. If you are growing in smaller containers it is a good
idea to provide a high volume of quality compost and or vermicompost at
the onset.
Some people grow herbs and edible produce in containers organically.
Because this has been practiced extensively utilizing chemical
fertilizers, there is a period where growers have flushed the soil with
copious amounts of water, the thought being that they are removing the
harsh or harmful chemicals from the plant tissues. Too late! Those
chemicals are already integrated into what you plan to put on your
dinner plate or in your medicinal tea or pipe. At least that’s my
opinion. If you have grown your produce naturally allowing the plant to
be in control, this flushing routine is not only unnecessary but sort
of stupid. Since plants are not able to uptake organic nutrients, what
exactly would you be flushing away? You might instead be water logging
your soil and roots.
Using Compost Tea
The use of compost tea (CT) is one of the best ways to inoculate your
soil with the beneficial microbes you wish to have for optimum health
of your plants. It is also good if your supply of compost or
vermicompost is limited, as it multiplies those microbes, we have been
discussing, by the millions. Remember the protozoa I mentioned earlier?
Well you can brew an aerated compost tea specifically to have a large
population of protozoa, usually mostly flagellates. If you have a good
quality compost or vermicompost, protozoa will already be present,
often in a resting cyst. If you have an efficient aerated brewer you
can pretty much count on having a high flagellate (protozoa) population
combined with bacteria/archaea and fungal hyphae (not mycorrhizal) at
42 to 44 hours brew time (65 to 72 degrees F). If you have a microscope
you can examine the CT periodically to be sure that the microbial
population is optimum. The use of aerated compost tea also provides the
opportunity to manipulate microbial populations for specific purposes
by using various recipes and brew times. You may wish to have high
bacterial or fungal numbers for pathogen/disease control or have soil
or plants that require a higher population of a microbial type. I have
a lot to learn yet of fungal species which can grow in compost tea so
until I have learned to identify the species occurring I’m
cautious about some of the tricks employed to stimulate fungal hyphae
growth in compost. Better to count on good quality compost and
vermicompost with natural occurring quantities and species of fungi and
use known mycorrhizal and mushroom spores in the soil.
As always, I am open to correction or refinement of what I have written.
Salutations,
Tim
Some References;
Email me if you wish to track down these references.
Protozoa and plant growth: 2003;
the microbial loop in soil revisited; Michael Bonkowski;
Rhizosphere Ecology Group, Institut für Zoologie, Technische Universität Darmstadt,
Darmstadt, Germany
Soil microbial loop and nutrient uptake by plants: 2006
a test using a coupled C:N model of plant–microbial interactions;
Xavier Raynaud; Jean-Christophe Lata; Paul W. Leadley Universite´
Paris-Sud XI, France
The mycorrhiza helper bacteria revisited; 2007 P. Frey-Klett, J. Garbaye and M. Tarkka
Interactions Arbres/Micro-organismes, Champenoux, France;
UFZ-Department of Soil Ecology, Helmholz Centre for Environmental
Research, Halle, Germany
Modern Soil Microbiology; 2nd edition 2007 - Chapter 6 - Protozoa and Other Protista in Soil
Marianne Clarholm, Michael Bonkowski, and Bryan Griffiths
So You Wanna Build A Compost Tea Brewer
Terms:
* = degree(s); CT = compost tea; ACT = aerated compost tea; O2 = oxygen; CO2 = carbon dioxide
DO2 = dissolved oxygen; CFM = cubic feet per minute; PPM = parts per million
There are several ways to make your own compost tea brewer which may
not produce the equivalent results to some commercially available
models but should provide you with a microbial extract you can apply to
your soil and plants. When I first started messing around with brewers,
I experimented with what we had lying in our various junk heaps around
the farm; cast-offs from buying the wrong part at the plumbing store,
outdated irrigation systems, left over pipe, dead vehicles and other
modern broken things. Therefore, if you are a junk collector like me,
you may already have much of what you require to build a compost tea
brewer.
First of all I’d like to make it clear that most aquarium air
pumps don’t produce enough air to use in a container larger than
1 gallon when considering making an aerated brewer. So
don’t even try the 5 gallon pail with the aquarium pump idea
everybody is passing around. You need a minimum 0.05 CFM (cubic
feet per minute), open flow of air and an optimum 0.08 CFM per gallon
(US) or higher to make aerated compost tea (ACT). ACT should have the
DO2 sustained at or above 6 PPM. Generally, aquarium pumps produce
around 0.02 to 0.16 CFM. Another generality is that 25 watts of power
usually produces 0.75 to 1.0 CFM in diaphragm air pumps. The wattage is
usually marked on the pump which will help you figure out the
approximate output. I’ll cover more on air pumps later.
In the following I will outline some simple methods of building a
variety of compost tea makers. I am not going to discuss anaerobic
methods at this time. Later on I may add some sketches.
1/ Stir Method: The cheapest way to make compost
tea is the old fashioned way. Just add compost to clean,
non-chlorinated, water (above 65 degrees F. recommended) and stir
like mad with a clean stick or whathaveyou. I’d recommend using
about 3 to 5% compost by volume of water and stir it up as often as you
can over an 8 to 12 hour period. Some people do it over a 24 hour
period and also add some foodstock like molasses, fish hydrolysate and
kelp. You can experiment with different times and ingredients and
decide for yourself. If you have a microscope, check it out. When you
feel that you have a completed compost tea (CT) you can remove it in
several ways. If you have just used a 5 gallon pail you can simply let
the particulate matter settle and pour the clearer CT off into watering
cans or your sprayer.
Filtering;
You can place a submersible pump into a mesh bag as a screen, drop it
into the tank (barrel, pail) and pump the CT out. I use a regular cheap
sump pump for this with a 800 to 1000 micron mesh bag (about the size
of window screen) See the testing I did; Does Microbial Life Survive Pump Impellers? . You can purchase mesh bags at www.aquaticeco.com
or make your own. Likewise, you can filter the CT by placing the same
size screen over top of another pail and pour or siphon the CT through
the mesh into the other vessel. If residue builds up, stop and clean
off the mesh. As residue builds up it stops the passage of the microbes
you want. Never run CT through a pipe constrained filter unless
essential as part of your irrigation system or spray rig.
2/ The Venturi Method: If you only have a water
pump and wish to make a compost tea brewer you can inject air into the
water by using a venturi. I have provided a sketch and text showing how to make your own or you can purchase them from http://www.aquaticeco.com
. Basically the venturi creates a vacuum which interfaces with the
water as it passes by, sucking air and mixing it with the water. It is
quite an efficient method of oxygenating water. If you have a really
tough water pump which does not clog, like a trash pump, you may run
this type of brewer without a mesh extractor bag. Most are going to
want to use a mesh extractor, so I recommend TEEing your water line
downstream from the venturi with one return line suspended above the
water and the other return line going into the mesh extractor.
Undoubtedly you will require a valve to regulate the flow so all of the
water does not just take the easiest route to the pipe suspended over
the water. To build a CT brewer beyond the stir method, some basic
knowledge of fitting plumbing parts and pipes together is essential, as
well as some engineering instincts. If you are not up for this just
save yourself the aggravation and buy a brewer. You may use your
imagination for a mesh extractor. For a small brewer of 100 gallons or
less, 400 microns is an ideal mesh size. Sometimes for large brewers
which may run for several days to establish a functional nutrient
cycling consortia a larger mesh size like 800 µm may be a better
choice. This is because, as noted above, the mesh may clog up a little
over time. A friend of mine successfully brewed CT using this method in
a 5000 gallon brewer for many years. He used 2, barrel sized mesh
extractor bags sewn from landscape cloth. He ran a return line into
each bag, which was ¾ full of compost and tied off each
bag tightly around the pipe so nothing could get out the top. These
were dropped into the water (with his tractor) and 2 other return pipes
pumped in oxygenated water. You can use your imagination to create mesh
extractors, dependent on the size of your brewer, the materials at hand
and what works for you. You can even create a basket which is partially
above the surface to prevent particulate escape. These systems are not
great for extracting and growing fungal hyphae but they produce
bacteria/archaea and protozoa just fine.
The Gas Exchange;
The reason for suspending the other pipe(s) above the water is so it
splashes into the water, breaking the water’s surface tension and
additionally pushing more air into the water like a water fall or
running river does. The surface tension of water is unique in its
toughness; it surpasses that of oil. When I first started experimenting
with the venturi method I had the return pipe submerged. The effects
were profound. As the water filled with air, generated by the venturi,
the water level rose, even over flowing my 1200 gallon tank. At the
time, I thought this was a good sign that I was oxygenating the water.
Sure, I was getting air in but was not getting the maximum dissolved
oxygen possible with my system. Later when I learned that gas exchange
means, ‘trading one gas for another’, I realized that the
surface tension must be broken for the optimum gas exchange to occur.
In this case, we are trading carbon dioxide (CO2) for oxygen (O2) or
dissolved oxygen (DO2). CO2 must make way for DO2. In water, CO2 has
two ways of being dissipated (of which I am aware). It is either used
by organisms, like water plants or it must escape at the surface
interface. In a brewer we have no plants and the microbes we are
growing use O2 and create CO2, so the CO2 must escape at the surface.
Because of the high surface tension of water, if we break the surface,
this escape or release is facilitated and we improve the efficiency of
our CT brewer. Once we started suspending the return pipe above
the surface, providing a hardy splash to break the surface, we had no
further over flows and the DO2 increased. NOTE: This
principle applies to air driven brewers as well. The better the surface
tension is broken, the better the capacity to contain DO2 in the water.
3/ The Vortex Method: There are many who claim
that running water in a vortex pattern comprised of multiple mini
vortices changes the properties of water beneficially. I remain dubious
but open-minded. You can form your own opinion on this subject. One
thing a vortex brewer is very good for is ensuring a full circulation
of all the water and compost added. There can be no ‘dead
zones’; none of the feared anaerobic pockets!! There is no point
to considering the use of a mesh extractor with a vortex brewer unless
you conceive of some genius method of suspending a mesh container in
the center of the flow. Therefore this design is for those of you who
don’t mind using compost in free suspension and deal with the
particulate matter later. A vortex action in a CT brewer is pretty much
dependent on the shape of the vessel used, combined with the direction
of the input flow ‘nozzles’ or pipe ends and finally on the
ability of the design to empty from a centrally located opening at the
bottom of the vessel and the return of the water emptied, to the top of
the vessel, to repeat the trip. Shapewise, you must use a round
configured vessel. The most efficient shape is a cone shape with a
drain hole at the bottom. Rather than go through a complex description
of how to construct an air driven vortex brewer, I’m including
this Internet link which illustrates a design by Steven Storch which he
has offered up to the public;
http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/turbo-vortex.htm
One with engineering instincts will come up with a variety of ways to
modify this design. For example this design can be transposed to a 50
gallon sized barrel with a drain hole placed in the bottom. You would
of course need a larger air pump and need to set the barrel up on
blocks or legs. These systems produce a full compliment of microbes
(bacteria/archaea, protozoa and fungal hyphae).
One can also create a vortex brewer using a water pump to return the
water to the top of the vessel again. Very handy if that is what you
have laying around in your junk pile. The advanced thinkers will have
already mindfully jumped to the idea that including a venturi with a
water pump driven vortex is going to increase its efficiency
exponentially. Well….at least a lot. Give yourself a gold star,
a pat on the back, a chocolate cookie. Bear in mind, that if you use a
water pump you will limit fungal hyphae extraction and growth.
4/ Bubble Blowers; There are 2 basic styles of
commercial bubble blower CT brewers. What I mean by bubble blowers, is
that their function depends on just that; blowing bubbles into the
water, into a mesh extractor or both. They do not actively move the
water, aside from the effect of the bubbles. Because of this, I find it
a paradox that they refer to their units as AACT (actively aerated
compost tea) brewers to separate themselves from only, aerated compost
tea (ACT) brewers, which supposedly just blow air into water. This
remains a mystery unto me. I won’t name these brewers because
they include almost every commercial brewer available, except mine of
course, which should be separated from those by being called an AAACT
brewer (giggle). No offense; just kidding around.
Anyway, back to business. A very simple method you can use to make an
aerated CT brewer is to use some rigid PVC thin walled pipe (not
schedule 40 because it is difficult to make tiny holes in) of
approximately ½ inch to ¾ inch size. Rigid pipe is
better than flex pipe because it holds its shape, can be cleaned more
easily and is easier to drill and saw. Use a straight piece which is
approximately as long as your proposed tank is high, joined to a 90*
elbow, then following the dimensional circumference of the bottom of
your tank build a roughly round hexagon or octagon or whateveragon
alternating with PVC fittings (45* or 11*, 22* to 30* if you can find
them http://pvcfittings.com ) and
short lengths of pipe, terminating just before you hit the elbow which
the long pipe slides into. Over the end of this last piece of pipe in
your whateveragon slide a cap. None of this needs to be glued (usually)
because we are not dealing with high pressure and the whole thing can
be taken apart for easy cleaning. We now need three more things. An air
supply, an air input interface with the pipe and diffusers. A diffuser
is an interface between air and water which ‘diffuses’ of
course, air into the water. No matter what name people give it, like
orifice or air stone, hole, slit or slot, it is still a diffuser. The
smaller the diffuser opening within the capacity of the air pump to
push air through easily, the greater the efficiency at raising and
maintaining the dissolved oxygen. Therefore you want to put the
smallest holes or slits possible at intervals in the short pieces of
pipe you used to construct your whateveragon. If you have an electric
drill you can drill 1/16th inch holes. You can try cutting slits with a
razor knife or very fine hack saw or other blade. A hacksaw cuts around
1000 microns width. I get machined slots which are 254 microns. Make
your openings so they are coming out the bottom angled towards the
center to begin with. (The pipe is not glued so you can rotate them).
For your first trial only put a few air openings in each length of pipe
(e.g. 2” spaces). We want the air traveling all the way to the
end of the whateveragon. Now to try it out, I guess we better get some
air happening.
First of all, for your air input you need to match air tubing with your
air pump and get a threaded barbed fitting that the tubing fits over
and a slip X female threaded coupling to go over your long straight
piece of PVC pipe which goes down and joins to your whateveragon. This,
you may need to glue.
I have provided a rudimentary representative sketch to help illustrate the basic construction >click here
A Word About Diaphragm Air Pumps;
If you are going to buy a pump to run your aerated CT brewer, I can
recommend the Eco Plus Commercial 5 (4 CFM max.) for up to 50 gallons
and the Eco Plus Commercial 1 (1.75 CFM max.) for up to 10 gallons.
I’m sorry but I cannot recommend a retailer for these pumps. I
buy them wholesale and perhaps if you contact them, they can refer you
to a retailer. http://www.nationalgardenwholesale.com
I can also recommend Hailea 9730 pumps (2 CFM max.) which you can purchase from www.aquaticeco.com
and other places. These are solid, long lasting pumps and I know other
commercial brewers use them for 50 gallons but I just can’t
recommend them for more than 30 gallons. If you use one for a 5 gallon
unit it will last virtually forever. All of these pumps come with a
little threaded brass fitting for screwing into the air output. DO NOT USE THESE!
Put them in your parts drawer. These constrict the air and reduce your
CFM by at least 20%. Rather, find tubing which slides over the nipple
into which the threads are tapped. In the case of the Eco Plus 5 and
the Hailea, 5/8ths inside diameter works. Slide the air tubing over and
secure with a gear clamp. The Eco Plus has a very short nipple so I
score the metal with a couple of swipes with a hacksaw to create barbs
for the tubing to grip. You can find tubing at a building supply like
Home Depot or Rona in Canada. I use the braided reinforced stuff which
does not kink. Always try to keep your pump at or above the surface of
the water so it does not siphon back if the power fails.
Now that we have our air supply you can slide the tubing over the
barbed fitting air input on the end of your straight piece of PVC and
fire her up. Ooops! Forgot the spring clamp. You can use a spring clamp
to pinch the long PVC air pipe to the edge of your tank at the top.
This keeps the hole thing from floating and you can adjust the distance
your whateveragon is from the bottom. Spring clamps are like giant
clothes pegs http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,43838&p=41712
http://www.hobbytool.com/springclamps.aspx
I’m sure you can find them at Home Depot too or you may think up another idea (like a ‘C’ clamp).
Okay fire up the pump and fill up your tank (pail, barrel) with water.
Watch the amount of air coming out of the openings you made. What we
want is air coming out right to the end of the whateveragon and even
dispersal all around and we want really broiling water bubbling up to
the surface. The reason I suggested angling the openings on the bottom
towards the center of the tank is so it would sweep right up from the
base. You can raise it closer to the surface to get a better look at
how evenly the air is coming out. You can also just put the air tube
end in the water, right to the bottom so you can get an idea of your
air potential and how much should be coming out of the holes you made.
You don’t want to restrict the air flow. If you feel comfortable
that you need more air coming out start adding more openings (on top),
beginning at the cap end on the top of the pipe and working your way
around towards the air input. You’ll get the hang of it. If you
screw up, no biggy cause you are using really short pieces of very
cheap pipe, not glued and you can redo and experiment to your
heart’s content.
This is very similar to the KIS 5 gallon brewer (a very efficient
little brewer; buy one if you don't like doing this) so their compost
brew kits will be ideal to use with this. You can use this system with
compost and feedstock in free suspension (added directly to the water)
or in the case of a 5 gallon set up you can probably get away with
placing your compost and solid food into a mesh bag tightly tied up and
floating around in the water. The turbulence may keep it suspended. You
could put some fishing floats or ping pong balls in it to be sure it
won’t sink.
If you wish to use an extractor bag with a larger brewer, then you can
use a variation of the set up previously described, except that you
have a PVC air line entering your (tube/sock shaped) mesh extractor bag
with diffuser openings close to the bottom of the bag and with a cap on
the end of the pipe. This pipe should go very close to the bottom of
the bag. You will need to tie off or fashion a lid for the extractor
bag or keep the top above the water surface. As stated previously, 400
microns is the optimum sized mesh to use. You may purchase a variety of
mesh bags from http://www.aquaticeco.com
. You can experiment with the number of diffuser openings which
provides sufficient agitation. These types of systems depend upon the
agitation of the compost against the mesh, caused by the air, to
extract the microbes from the compost. Some systems have no additional
air diffusion outside of the mesh extractor, while others incorporate
one or more additional diffusers. One could TEE off from the air line,
one diffuser going into the mesh bag, the other into the water. A valve
to regulate the air flow would be necessary in this case. Alternatively
one could use two air pumps. One could combine both designs, using a
whateveragon diffuser and another pipe going into the mesh extractor.
Diffusers;
One could incorporate good quality glass bonded diffusers if one did
not wish to mess with PVC pipes and making their own diffusers. These
diffusers are resistant to break down by microbes and can be cleaned
with muriatic acid (but are not environmentally friendly to clean).
They are called Sweetwater medium bore diffusers and are available at http://www.aquaticeco.com
. They are far superior to homemade PVC diffusers in terms of
sustaining DO2 because they produce finer bubbles . There is no truth
(that I have seen) to the statement that fine bubbles damage some
microbes.
Anaerobes;
Many people are overly anxious about having any anaerobic microbes in
their CT. If you have a tremendous number of ciliates in your CT, or if
it stinks to high heavens, there is a likelihood that your CT has gone
anaerobic and you should toss it. However, I would not worry about
seeing a healthy number of ciliates (if you have a microscope),
especially if there are also high numbers of flagellates and/or
amoebae. Additionally anaerobic (facultative and obligate) bacteria and
archaea occur naturally in the soil and other environments and their
existence is part of the balance of nature so don’t worry if you
have a few in your consortia.
Cleaning;
You should clean out your brewer after each use, especially the extractor bag if you use one.
Conversions;
1 US gallon = 3.78 litres (liters)
1 US quart = 0.946 litre (liter)
1 micrometer or micron (µm) = 0.000039 inch (39/100000ths)
For converting mesh to microns: http://chemplazaonline.com/meshsizecoverter.aspx
I think I’ve covered the basics. If anyone has any suggestions or if you notice any errors, please speak up.
My DVD 
I have
produced a narrated DVD condensed to 1 hour, 43 minutes from
hours and hours of live real time video captured through an
interface of a Leitz Orthoplan microscope, a Sony high definition
video camera and a computer. No film was used in this
process. The purpose of this video is to assist folks who
are using microscopes to identify the microbes they are observing
in their compost, soil and compost tea.
It includes some examples of; 1/ what microbes you should see in a finished compost tea,
2/ bacteria, 3/ flagellates, 4/ ciliates, 5/ amoebae (3,4 &5 comprise the three groups of Protozoa),
6/ fungal hyphae, 7/ yeast cells,
8/ nematodes, 9/ rotifers and 10/ compost examination.
For those
of you without microscopes the DVD offers a good visual
representation of what is going on in your Compost Tea and
soil.
The DVD
is a set of 2 discs in a case. The cost is $40.00 USD including
shipping by mail anywhere in the USA or Canada. Quotes will
be given for other methods of shipping or for shipping to other
countries. Wholesale prices are available to distributors. Please
email me with your inquiry. Presently the DVD is available in
NTSC format.
The
preferred form of payment is by PayPal. If you are not presently
registered with PayPal it is easy, secure, free and it allows the
use of credit cards. I will receive payment immediately and can ship
the DVD right out to you. If you would prefer to send money
by another method please email me at; thegoodjob@hotmail.com
PLEASE DO NOT SEND PAYPAL PAYMENTS TO THE ABOVE EMAIL ADDRESS.
Click on the following video link (4.7 MB) to download a 'wmv' (Windows
Media Video) to your computer. Depending on your download speed it may
take a while. It is an example of what sort of footage is included in
the DVD.
Video link
NOTE RE VIDEOS; If you are
unable to view the videos and have a Windows operating system, you may
need to initiate, dowload or update Windows Media Player.
Please email me to place your order. thegoodjob@hotmail.com
More Video Footage; also wmv; click on link to download.
Vorticella (<5 MB)
Who I am
My name
is Tim Wilson. I am a self-taught researcher/scientist. I do not
possess a degree but did study a wide range of courses at
university, some of them post-graduate
courses I was allowed into based on my knowledge level at
the time. Many of you will know me by my contributions to the
Yahoo Compost Tea discussion forum. Presently I reside on a
100+ acre farm in the southern interior of British Columbia,
Canada. I am just north of a dot on the map called
Westbridge.
Other Projects
I have designed
a new Compost Tea brewer called the Microbulator 50 which is described
below. It is different from other brewers I have
seen, in that the water is actively circulated through a pipe while
being charged with air and returned to the tank from an elevated
position with use of only an air pump. It sustains a higher than
average dissolved oxygen level. It works with or without an extraction
bag.
I hope to
produce more helpful DVDs if this first one goes over well. The next
project I have in mind is to create a DVD which instructs microscope
use specific to the observation of living microbial samples. It will
teach some tricks to enhance the images seen with a basic brightfield
compound microscope.
Please email me if you have questions or comments at; thegoodjob@hotmail.com
The Microbulator 50; A 50 (US) gallon compost tea brewer
{Patents pending in Canada & USA on design and method related to all sizes and configurations.}
Video Clips of Operation
Details & Questions
Purchase & Shipping
Ugly But Efficient & Cheap!
Features:
* Active flow-circulation induced by air alone; 6.3 gallons/minute
* Efficient gas exchange system for excellent dissolved oxygen maintenance
* Works with or without an extractor bag (extractor unit included)
* Two different ways to configure apparatus
* Translucent barrel promotes the growth of phototrophic microorganisms
* 3.5 CFM diaphragm air pump with 1 year warranty
* Can be dismantled and cleaned in under 40 minutes, including the barrel
* Sturdy parts used in manufacture
* Specially designed machine slotted PVC diffusers
* Operational instruction on DVD included
* Inexpensive; $489.00 USD without barrel; Please inquire if you wish to purchase complete with barrel
* See it in operation > View the video clips below
See the video clips below for microbial data and basic operation.
Details, Details
As of 2007, I am taking orders for the 50 Gallon
Microbulator compost tea brewer or as I affectionately call it, a
microbe extractor and multiplier (bioreactor). One of my largest
obstacles in getting to this point was deciding on a price. My goal
from the beginning was to provide an affordable, efficient device
geared to the small farmer/grower who doesn’t need the fancy
looking brewer, just one that works and is easily cleaned. During the
end phase of development and testing I discovered that my device would
not work in just any shape of tank so be sure you use a 55 gallon (US)
barrel of the correct dimensions. I will provide barrel specs with
purchase. I have kept my overall mark-up lower than the norm
resulting in a price much lower than similar sized commercial brewers.
My price is $489.00 USD without barrel. Other similar sized
brewers on the market are much more expensive. Compare for
yourself. People deciding to
provide their own container will need to ensure the correct dimensions. These barrels are easily found in all localities.
While visiting Tad Hussey at Keep It Simple Inc. (compost tea
brewers) in Seattle, I showed him video footage of the Microbulator 50
operating. He commented that it might be ‘not pretty
enough’ for some consumers. When I told him my expected price
range he coined the phrase ‘ugly and cheap’. I decided to
incorporate that into my sales pitch mantra ‘Ugly but Cheap and
Efficient’. After all; the beauty of a John Deere tractor is in
the eye of the beholder but as we farmers all know ‘nothing runs
like Deere’. Tad has decided to offer the Microbulator 50
through his website. He is also selling a specialized
nutrient pack (Pro Kit) and compost just for this brewer.
The Microbulator 50 works with or without an extractor bag. That
decision is the owner’s, based on the planned uses, application
method and coarseness of the compost used.
Now, how does this work and what makes it different than other commercial brewers on the market?
My design, unlike other commercial brewers I have seen, does not just
blow air into water or into the extractor bag but actively circulates
the water while charging it with oxygen. This is done using only an air
pump. No water pump is involved. This is accomplished by a diffuser
housing fixture I
designed and built which incorporates the diffuser inside an 1
½ inch PVC pipe [1.25 inch industry size]. The whole 50
gallons of water is cycled
through
this pipe every 8 minutes at a measured flow rate of at least 6.3
gallons per
minute. The water is drawn from two opposing sides of the bottom of the
tank, pushed past the diffuser, while being injected with O2, up the
pipe and through the return nozzle suspended about 2 to 5 inches above
the water’s surface, falling back into the liquid, pushing O2
into the water by breaking the surface tension barrier, facilitating
the release of CO2 from the tank and the absorption of O2 (gas
exchange). This is not unlike the action of a waterfall or flow form.
This action pushes the oxygenated water into the body of water further
raising the dissolved oxygen content. Because the water intake openings
are located at opposing sides at the bottom of the barrel, a
current-like flow is created and maintained so any still areas of water
are highly unlikely. The release of CO2 is essential to create space in
water for the absorption of dissolved oxygen and the only way for CO2
to be released in a CT brewer is through the surface. At the same time
a large slotted PVC diffuser is infusing the whole body
of water with air. Oxygen is absorbed by the interface of the
bubbles created on the way to the surface and the surface tension
barrier is broken again by the bubble turbulence, allowing the further
release of carbon dioxide and the maintenance of dissolved oxygen. By
this means, there are three interfaces where O2 is being injected into
the water or compost tea.
This highly efficient yet very simple method is generally able to raise
and maintain the dissolved oxygen (DO2) content of fresh well water
having a TDS/EC of 21 to 30 PPM and temperature of 18 C to 21 C (65 F
–
70 F) at least 3 PPM (parts per million) above the natural DO2. Using
the same water within the same temperature range, with; 4%
compost/vermicompost, 0.75% black strap molasses, 0.25% kelp meal and
0.063% fish hydrolysate, the DO2 is maintained at 8.8 to 9.8 PPM up to
a 48 hour brew time. Please note that these are maximum amounts of
compost inputs and not recommended for people brewing without
microscopes.
The circulating action, the force of impact with the water’s
surface along with the air from diffusers provides sufficient agitation
to break the microbes loose from their binding spots in the compost.
The continuous flow provides a more homogeneous dispersal of oxygen and
microbes, avoiding still water areas where potential undesired microbial
life may develop. Once free swimming or bound to smaller particles, the
bacteria, archaea, yeast cells and fungal hyphae graze on the feed
supplied and multiply or grow.
Maintaining a reasonably high rate of dissolved oxygen in the body of
water is essential to the device’s efficiency for extracting and
multiplying the beneficial aerobic microbes, consisting of; archaea,
bacteria, fungal hyphae, flagellates, amoebae, some ciliates, yeast
cells and yeast fungal hyphae. Because of the constant cycling,
microbes are fairly evenly distributed throughout the tank. To get a
sample, simply hold a container under the return nozzle.
With Extractor Unit;
The Microbulator can be used in free suspension or with mesh
extractor bag configurations. A specifically designed diffuser is
used in the bag while the internal diffuser continues circulating the
water/tea breaking the
surface tension. Both configurations are good for multi-purpose compost
tea but using the extractor radically reduces particulate matter
in the tea and is good to use for foliar disease suppression. The
extractor should be used if you are using
coarse compost with pieces between 1/2 inch and 1 inch cubed. See the demo video below.
The highest microbial numbers are going to be developed using the
device configured for the compost placed in free suspension but if one
requires the extractor for a reduction in particulate matter this configuration provides a comparative alternative.
Free Suspension;
On the farm we usually use the Microbulator 50 without the extractor,
remove the apparatus once the brew is complete, allowing the particles
to settle to the bottom, lower in a submersible pump just above the
level of the spent compost/particles and pump out the clearer compost
tea. Alternatively one can place the pump in a mesh bag (fly screen
size) and drop it in or simply scoop out the compost tea with a pail or
watering can. Afterwards dump out the thick leftover slurry onto your
soil or compost pile. If you are using vermicompost any worm
eggs/capsules/cases remaining will still hatch once in the soil or in a
non-hot compost pile.
What did you use and why?
Pump: I settled on the Eco Plus
Commercial diaphragm operated air pump. I was first using the Hailea
9730 (rated at 60 LPM) but the air flow was just not strong enough to
support 50 gallons of compost tea and it is only warrantied for 6
months. The Eco Plus puts out a whopping 3.4 to 3.6 CFM (<>100
LPM) configured the way we use it. The flow on each pump is tested with
our flow meter prior to being shipped. On top of this the pump is
warrantied for one year and replacement parts are available if it does
quit. It is a little noisier (the price of power) and because it is
lighter it wants to vibrate around. To cease the wandering and help
with the noise I’ve included a little rubber damper mat with each
kit.
IMPORTANT NOTE: I did not use a check valve for the pump because it
prohibits air flow so the pump must be placed above or at the same
level of the water surface to prevent back flow if there is a power
outage or the pump is turned off.
The Air Tubing; The air tubing
is heavy duty 7/8 inch braid reinforced clear vinyl. I tried the
regular clear stuff but it kinked too much and wore quickly. Each kit
includes enough tubing for the device to insert into the barrel plus 6
feet for lead to the pump. You can decide where to place the pump and
trim the excess accordingly. Remember the pump must be above or at the
same level of the water surface.
Clamps: We have, as of January
2009, started using stainless steel pinch clamps permanently affixed,
combined with stainless steel gear clamps.
Air Control Valve; I used a
brass plumbing valve to control the air flow between the large diffuser
and return flow nozzle. I tried cheaper plastic valves but they
didn’t cut it.
Piping; I decided on PVC pipe
because it is inexpensive, easy to clean, can be fitted together
without glue in low pressure applications like this or can be glued
when necessary (as are a few of the pieces). I am using 1 ¼ inch
diameter pipe because it is the right size to accommodate the flow
needed for the 50 gallon brewer. One small disadvantage is that
sometimes when disassembling one must use pliers or vice grips to pull
apart a pipe and fitting. NOTE; The industry sizing of the pipe is 1 1/4 inch but the actual diameter is 1 1/2 inches.
Diffusers; As of January 2009,
I am using only, machine slotted PVC diffusers which I designed
and get cut at a machine shop. Many of you will know that I wanted to
stop using the glass bonded stone type diffusers because the muriatic
acid used to clean them is not environmentally friendly. Via research
over the winter I succeeded, by altering the depth of the slots and
lengthening the large diffuser, in improving the PVC diffusers so as to
match the dissolved oxygen maintenance of the glass bonded diffusers.
The slots are 254 microns in width. There are three of these diffusers
included with the brewer.
Brass Fittings: We use
brass fittings throughout, where applicable for purposes of longevity
and quality. Where the brass must be adhered to PVC we have used a high
grade non toxic epoxy.
Barrel: As mentioned previously
please check with me for barrel dimensions and potential sources. I use
a translucent barrel, as I believe this encourages the growth of
phototrophic microorganisms.
Extractor; The extractor bag we
are using is 400 microns mesh size, 24 inches long and 7 inches in
diameter. There is a stainless steel supportive ring sewn into the top
and a rubberized poly cap, with an entry hole for the diffuser. The
unit is hung over the PVC pipe with nylon line. Replacement bags will be around twelve bucks.
I tested many sizes of mesh prior to choosing 400 microns. I tried 200,
250, 300, 400, 800, 1000 microns mesh sizes.
Bungee Cord; A rubber bungee
cord is included which holds the unit in place and prevents floating,
as it is filled with air charged water. The hooks are the perfect size
to secure the positioning of the control valve and large diffuser. This
beats trying to use weights inside the tank.
Ongoing Improvements; As occurred with the slotted
diffusers, I will endeavor to apply improvements in structure or
function which are discovered. I am planning on getting a custom
seamless extractor bag in future.
How about cleaning?
The whole unit can be dismantled and cleaned in under twenty minutes.
Add ten minutes if you use the bag and another ten for the barrel.
The unit should be removed from the compost tea while still pumping air
for best results. This prevents back-flow into the
diffusers and into the air tubing. While pumping air,
particles and bacteria will have a more difficult time entering the air
system. The whole unit then pulls apart and can be cleaned quickly
with fresh water, a scrub brush or pad and a bottle/pipe cleaner
(available at Wal Mart, etc.) If you clean the unit right after use,
generally you can use water alone but occasionally you may wish to use
hydrogen peroxide or bleach. It is not advised to use bleach on the
extractor bag but you may use it on the pipe and tubing. You should not
need to clean the inside of the air tubing if you prevent back-flow.
The extractor bag should be flushed under fresh water immediately
following use and can be hand washed using a peroxide product like
Oxy-clean.
What about brew times?
I am confident that the Microbulator 50 will match or surpass any other
commercial brewer as far as production of numbers and diversity of
microbes and DO2 maintenance, given equal parameters of water,
temperature, compost, foodstock and time. If you wish to brew for
24 hours, the Microbulator will perform appropriately to extract and
multiply the expected microbial types and numbers for that brew time. I
recommend a brew time of around 36 to 44 hours if you are striving for a
functional consortia of nutrient cycling microbes, consisting of
bacteria/archaea, fungal hyphae and flagellates and/or amoebae. It is
very important to be aware that you need good quality
compost/vermicompost and feedstock to get good quality compost tea.
Temperature and water quality must also be considered. Really!; there
can be so many variables and the best way to know at what hour your
microbes are at the optimum level is by microscopic examination.
Please see the video clips below for data from different brew times.
What are some other benefits of purchasing a Microbulator 50?
All Microbulator 50 owners will have access to recommendations for brewing
compost tea for various purposes from me or one of my affiliate businesses KIS http://www.simplici-tea.com or Organic Approach Inc. http://www.organicapproach.com Support will be provided by email and telephone. Owners will be
privy to new information gained through my ongoing research concerning,
technique, application, disease suppression, microbial activity and
recipe development. When I find and start distributing a simple
microscope, Microbulator 50 owners will receive a discounted price of
purchase. Through the distribution of the little microscope with
interface to computer I am hoping to set up a research network of sorts
with individuals from different areas, using different compost and
having various growing circumstances. The idea is to gather and share
direct view microbial data by way of micro-photographs and video.
Do you have different sized brewers or design custom brewers?
I am working on a smaller sized brewer design applicable to the
homeowner. It will likely be around 10 gallons in size. My design
principle can be applied to pretty much any size of brewer. I use the
same operational principle for our 1200 US gallon brewer which we use
on our farm. The right sized air pump, diffusers, pipe, etc. must be
calculated in accordance to the CFM per volume/depth of water.
I am open to customizing designs for large on farm applications. Just
drop me an email if this interests you. I have done a couple of these
now and because of the time involved I must charge a minimum $500.00
USD for this service and a negotiated fee over a certain number of
hours expended.
Purchase & Shipping
I presently am limited to receiving payment by Paypal, cleared check or bank transfer.
Paypal allows payment by credit card or through your bank. I believe
this service is still free. If you wish to arrange a purchase
please email me at thegoodjob@hotmail.com
Note: My Paypal account is not associated with this email address.
Units are shipped by insured mail.
The Microbulator 50 is now also available for purchase through Keep It Simple Brewers at http://www.simplici-tea.com
Where is your data?
I’m a great believer in pictures as documentation and exhibition
so I have posted some video clips here which show the Microbulator 50
in operation and some microscopic videos recording the microbes
extracted and grown at several different brew times. The videos are viewed using
Windows Media Player which comes with most PC operating systems. You
need to download them to watch and it may take some time based on your
computer and Internet connection. In many cases I have offered a choice
of high or low resolution clips. Obviously if you have a very slow
connection choose the smaller file.
Video Clips
In Operation;
The Microbulator 50 demo video; 10 MB or a smaller version at 7 MB
Microbes;
Video Data for The Microbulator 50; April, 2008
Without The Extractor - Free Suspension Configuration;
The following video clips were shot to record microbial extraction and
multiplication at varying time periods of a brew while using the
Microbulator 50 in the free suspension configuration, that is with 4.5
liters of vermicompost and solid feedstock added directly to the water
without the use of the extractor. Our own vermicompost was used which
was fed a base of very old cow manure/wood shavings compost, sphagnum
peat moss and kitchen scraps. Both brews were started at a temperature
of around 18 C (65F). In the first brew the vermicompost was not mixed
with anything to activate it. For the second brew the vermicompost was
mixed with oat flour 20:1 and covered for around 120 hours prior to
using it. Both brews maintained great DO2 levels to 60 hours; Brew #1
– 9.0 PPM DO2; Brew #2 – 8.9 PPM DO2. I do not recommend brewing for 60 hours and longer unless you have
the instruments to check your brew or unless circumstances dictate the
necessity. I have however included video footage recorded at this time
period.
I am very pleased with the results demonstrated by the brewer as well
as our by vermicompost. The following video clips are narrated and
fairly self explanatory.
Microbial Identification:
In one instance I refer to an amoeba as naked, although I’m not
entirely sure whether it has a shell (test) or not. I am researching to
identify it. You will see some flagellates which are joined together
like a bunch of balloons. These may be Choanoflagellida Salpingoecidae
(diploeca) or Kinetoplastida Bodonidae Cephalothamnium cyclopum or of a
related group within the major Mastigophora group.
NOTE RE VIDEOS; If you are
unable to view the videos and have a Windows operating system, you may
need to initiate, dowload or update Windows Media Player.
Please click the links below to download video clips. In
most cases there is a choice of a large higher resolution file followed
by a smaller lower resolution file.
Brew #1 Vermicompost Free Suspension; Not mixed with Oat Flour;
10 hours 6.5 MB
or 2.8 MB
18 hours clip 1; 10 MB or 4.4 MB
18 hours clip 2; 7.3 MB or 3.2 MB
18 hours clip 3; 5 MB
36 hours 9.5 MB or 4.2 MB
42 hours 7 MB or 3.1 MB
60 hours 12 MB (large) or 5.2 MB
Brew #2 Vermicompost Free Suspension; Mixed with Oat Flour
10 hours 5 MB
18&36 hours 6 MB
42 hours clip 1; 7.5 MB
or 3.3 MB
42 hours clip 2; 5.9 MB
60 hours 6.2 MB
With The Extractor;
The video clips below illustrate the microbial densities at various
time periods in a compost tea using the Microbulator 50 configured with
the mesh extractor bag in place. In this configuration the large PVC
diffuser was placed inside the mesh extractor while the return nozzle
still splashed oxygenated water/tea onto/into the surface. Both brews
included the use of our vermicompost which had been mixed 20:1 with oat
flour and covered for about 120 hours prior to use. The video clips are
narrated as before.
Brew #1 was made using our vermicompost with fish hydrolysate and kelp added.
DO2 at 60 hours - 8.9 PPM
10 hours 4 MB
18 hours 5 MB
36 hours 8 MB or 4 MB
42&60 hours 5 MB
Brew #2 was made using our vermicompost with fish hydrolysate, kelp
meal and black strap molasses. Adding the molasses was kind of an
impulsive afterthought and for a regular brew I probably would not
repeat this when also using fish when the compost has been treated with
(fed) oat flour. There was an over abundance of feedstock resulting in
a very high bacteria/archaea population. The result was a brew which
took 60 hours to consume the feedstock and complete. It was interesting
though and definitely microbially rich. DO2 at 60 hours – 7.3 PPM
10 hours 10 MB or 5 MB
18&36&42 hours 9 MB or 4 MB
60 hours 7 MB or 4 MB
Other Batches with different Compost; 2007
Compost tea batch #1 at 22 to 24 hour brew time; 11 MB (high res); 5 MB (low res)
at 44 hours; 4 MB
Compost tea batch #2 at 46 hours; clip 1; 8 MB (high res); 4 MB (low res)
Clip 2; 5 MB (med res)
Clip 3; 8 MB (high res); 4 MB (low res)
Clip 4; 10 MB (high res); 5 MB (low res)
Microscopes For Sale
SEE UPDATE BELOW!
Today is April 30, 2009 and finally I am approaching the point of
having affordable microscopes to sell. I have been working with
several microscope bodies which I imported from China and have
settled on two models which I will be selling through this webpage. I
have been working for 2 months to create custom filters to enhance the
images viewed through the microscopes and am now satisfied with the
results. Each microscope will come with these custom designed filters
as well as a custom made 20X objective which the manufacturer made for
me. The enhancement produces images which are similar to those seen
using phase contrast and differential interference contrast (3D). The
effects are particularly effective with the large scope using the 20X
objective as you can see in the video footage posted below.
The brightfield images are very good, equivalent to or better than
higher priced microscopes like the Leica CME. The brightfield (true)
resolution is actually somewhat better than when using the enhancement
devices. The enhancement effects refraction and diffraction of light
with the use of different colors as well as black to block certain
portions of light. This provides a contrast making the subjects stand
out more to the human eye. The method I have used is, I believe
different than that previously employed by other microscopists so
I’ll regard it as proprietary, at least for now.
Each microscope will also come with a DVD produced by myself teaching
the use of the microscope, general microscopy and some compost and
compost tea observational techniques. There will be extras available
for additional charges, such as a 3X multiplier lens, 100X (oil)
objective, carrying case and plan achromatic objectives. I am also
working on a camera.
My goal, like my other endeavors has been to provide a functional yet
inexpensive quality microscope to support microbial based horticulture
which I believe is of great benefit to the farmer, landscaper and home
gardener. I maintain it to be just as much a tool as a shovel, hoe or
lawn mower.
When are they available? I will be putting in a bulk order for a
shipment from China around May 9th. I am working on arranging for some
minor improvements from the manufacturer and I’m hoping to
receive some feedback from folks as to what model they wish to order. I
don’t want a boat load of small scopes if everyone wants the full
size ones. They will likely be in stock around the middle of June. All
microscopes will be personally inspected by me prior to shipping. The
manufacturer is offering a one year warranty but I will extend it to
two years on the full size scope. I’ll swap them out if there is
a problem.
I apologize for being a month behind but a hand injury took me out of the lab for a month.
If you want to be on the list for a particular model please email me ASAP at thegoodjob@hotmail.com
UPDATE: June 4th 2009; The microscopes
are shipping by sea on June 9th which means I'll be able to start
sending out your orders at the end of June. The camera sample I got was
not up to my standards in quality so I'm working on other avenues as I
can afford to. The carrying case is too expensive once shipping is
factored in so I'm looking for a North American source where you can
order from. I have a limited number of 3X multiplier lenses ($28) so
those who want these included in their purchase, let me know ASAP so I
can get more if needed.
As far as the camera goes, I'm hoping
to find a good quality camcorder with an optical zoom lens and
build my own adapter and/or carry Martin adapters. This is going to
take some time and money to work out.
Regarding the extras;
1/ I personally don’t see the value in a 100X oil immersion
objective for general soil/compost microbe examination but I will order
a few for you enthusiasts out there.
2/ The multiplier lens I’m carrying is a great investment and is priced at $28.
3/ No doubt that the plan achromatic objectives will produce superior
brightfield images but the working distance is shorter and I have yet
to work up enhancement devices for them. The price for a set (4X, 10X,
20X, 100X) will be around $200.
4/ The carrying case I’m unsure of so far. I need to know that
the manufacturer is providing an aluminum case filled with form-fitted
foam sufficient to ship the scopes in. If I got them shipped separately
(without scopes in them) the freight costs would push the price higher
than you all could get cases elsewhere. The way the scopes are packed
now is fabulous.
5/ Cameras; I’m getting a lot of inquiries on this subject. As
I’ve said before, the best thing you can get if you have the
money is a HD camcorder with a firewire, HDMI or USB interface with a
computer. I spent a fortune on my setup. I am trying to find a cheap
alternative. I have a sample coming in the mail which is a new CMOS
chip USB cam which slides into the camera port. I’m trying to
work on adapting a webcam and I’m searching for a manufacturer
who can make something to my specs (this one is least likely).
Descriptions:
Small Scope:
This is a good quality scope and produces images completely adequate to
assessing soil and compost (tea) microbes. It is not a full size scope.
Dual view; monocular and camera port
Eyepieces: 20 mm widefield 10X & 16X
Achromatic Objectives: 10X, 20X, 40X
Mechanical Stage
Coaxial Course & Fine Focus
Metal Gears
Abbe Condenser 1.25 N.A. with swing-out filter holder; rack & pinion adjustment
Lamp; 20 watt halogen; adjustable intensity
Price; $300 USD
Full Size Scope:
This is a nice heavy microscope with a wide base for stability. The
optics are very nice for such an inexpensive scope (superior to the
small scope) and the brass gears are a nice bonus. With proper care it
should perform for years.
Trinocular; binocular with camera port; nice inter-pupil adjustment; extra adapters for camera port
Eyepieces: 20 mm extra widefield 10X & widefield 16X
Achromatic Objectives: 4X, 10X, 20X, 40X
Mechanical Stage (much larger than small scope)
Coaxial Course & Fine Focus; 0.02 mm increments
Brass Gears
Abbe Condenser 1.25 N.A. with swing-out filter holder; rack & pinion adjustment
Lamp; 20 watt halogen; adjustable intensity
Price; $600 USD
Anyway, here is the full size scope;
Brightfield Images
Here is brightfield video footage shot through the microscope. Be aware
that looking down the eyepiece and microscope tube is always higher
quality than with a camera; also the camera magnifies the image and
reduces the field of view by about 1/3rd.
4X objective 3MB 10X objective(a) 4MB 10X objective(b) 3MB 20X objective 4MB 40X objective(a) 3MB 40X objective(b) 4MB
Enhanced Images;
Here is some enhanced image video footage shot through the microscope
using my proprietary method and some others. The 20X objective images
are most impressive and the number one feature of the scope.
20X objective a/ 4MB b/ 3MB c/ 4MB d/ 4MB e/ 3MB : 10X objective a/ 4MB b/ 2MB
Photos through full size scope;
Here is the small scope and the two side by side;
Brightfield Images; (Small Scope)
Here is brightfield video footage shot through the microscope. Be aware
that looking down the eyepiece and microscope tube is always higher
quality than with a camera; also the camera magnifies the image and
reduces the field of view by about 1/3rd.
10X objective 4MB 20X objective a/ 3MB b/ 3MB 40X objective 4MB
Enhanced Images; (Small Scope)
Please note that because I had Sphagnum Peat leaves with sharp features
available when working with the small scope, it may appear that I had
greater resolution with the small scope. This is not the case. I will
ad more images shot through the large scope shortly.
Here is some enhanced image video footage shot through the microscope
using my proprietary method and some others.
10X objective a/ 2MB b/ 2MB 20X objective 3MB 40X objective a/ 4MB b/ 3MB
Photos through small scope;
Four variances; Brightfield, Shift Phase, Rheinberg, Darkfield (10X objective)
Brightfield & Enhanced
Tests, Observations & Postulations
Subcontents:
A look; Sphagnum Peat & Alaska Magic
Do Microbes Survive Impeller Pumps?
Yelm Brewer Trials and Lab Tests
Terracycle Plant Food Examination
Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss & Alaska Magic (Humus);
Here is a look at a sample of Canadian Sphagnum peat moss Premier brand
and a sample of Alaska Magic which is purported to be humus from
Alaska. Both were purchased in Washington State and I examined them in
a temporary lab situation using my portable microscope and laptop
computer. In the first set of video clips we see the samples hydrated
with distilled water and spread out on a microscope slide to have a
look at the leaf and cell structure. In the narration for the Sphagnum
peat moss I mistakenly describe it as 20X magnification (I meant the
20X objective) when it is actually 250X plus the camera lens effect.
You can see that the two plant substances appear virtually identical
which leads me to hypothesize that, although they may come from
different geographical locations, they are both primarily composed of
the same matter. I can provide lengthier and more inclusive video clips
to interested parties. I do apologize for the variance in volume on the
video clips. Please note that they may take some time to download to
your computer and they play in Windows Media Player.
Click here (9.46 MB) to view the Canadian Sphagnum peat moss sample or here (4.15 MB) for a smaller version.
Click here (7.52 MB) to view the Alaska Magic sample.
In the second set of video clips we see footage of samples of Sphagnum
peat moss and Alaska Magic mixed with distilled water and a couple of
drops of black strap molasses to ‘wake up’ the organisms
and left to sit. The Sphagnum footage was captured at 42 hours and the
Alaska M