Microbe Organics

 
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Microbe Organics;
Microbe Organics? What the heck is this?; You ask. It is the name I chose to describe my approach to the understanding and interpretation of microbial based soil and plant amendments currently evolving in horticultural practices throughout the world. Two such practices which you may have heard of or use yourself are Compost Tea and EM (Effective Microorganisms {EMRO USA} or Beneficial and Effective Microorganisms{SCD}; 2 Brand Names). I will be focusing to begin with on the practical analysis and use of Compost Tea.


I am initiating this website in July of 2007 to coincide with the release of a DVD I produced to assist with the identification microscopically of the major beneficial microbes at work in compost, soil and Compost Tea.

I am not an expert in this field of biology, in fact I am a lifelong student and will defer to the far superior overall knowledge of several experts in microbial based amendments, however what I have to offer is a translation or simplification of many of the terms, functions and observations surrounding this science. The reason I am able to do this is mostly due to my ‘I have to see it to believe it or comprehend it’ attitude. When I first started researching microbial based agriculture about six years ago I set up a small microscope laboratory enabling me to observe the microorganisms present in Compost Tea, microbial fermentations (e.g. EM), compost and soil. I set up an interface between a video camera, microscope and computer thus allowing me to capture real time video which has culminated thus far in the production of my first DVD.

Like the science which this growing (pun intended) phenomenon is based upon, this website will evolve over time. I will post links to sources of knowledge, supplies and practical solutions as I acquire permission to do so and as I learn of them. As I gain more skill managing this site I hope to post video footage of observations and experiments. Therefore keep checking back for updates.   

Using This Page: I have a dislike for websites where one must wait for pages to load so I have placed all the information on one page for now. You may access all subject headings via the links in the Contents section below and some subjects have subheadings which are also linked. So click away.

Contents; 

                                                                                                      Naked Amoeba
Compost Tea

Organic Growing from a Microbial Perspective

So You Wanna Build A Compost Tea Brewer
Microbe Identification
Who I am
Stuff I'm Selling;
DVD
Microbulator Compost Tea Brewer
Microscopes For Sale
More Helpful Info & Ramblings;
Projects
Tests, Observations & Postulations
Resources & Links
Compost Tea Recipes                                                                                                                         

What is Compost Tea?


Very simply stated Compost Tea is a water-based environment wherein beneficial microorganisms are extracted from compost or vermicompost (worm compost) and multiplied by the millions and billions. Some form of agitation breaks the microbes free from the compost and they multiply because food, like black strap molasses, fish hydrolysate, kelp meal, humic acid, etc. has been added to the water, which at least one type of microbe digests. When one or more type of microbe begins to multiply in response to the food, other microbes respond to this growth and begin to consume these initial microbes and multiply in turn and so on and so on. For example the initial microbes are usually bacteria which are food for protozoa so the protozoa multiply in response to the bacteria. The end result is a functional feeding cycle or microbial nutrient cycle. I refer to this as a functional microbial consortia. This develops over a period of 12 to 72 hours or more and is then applied to the soil and plants. In the soil there are a number of organisms which function in basically the same nutrient cycle and zone. Once again, simply stated, there are substances released from the roots of plants which feed bacteria (& archaea), again the bacteria/archaea become prey to the protozoa and the protozoa excrete substances which are available to the roots as nutrients (e.g. nitrogen) thus creating a feeding cycle. Other compost/soil microorganisms of great importance are fungi. Fungal hyphae, are long branching strands which grow through the soil and serve to; bind soil aggregates together, help retain moisture, store certain nutrients, provide a source of food to certain other microbes, provide pathways for nutrient and moisture delivery, decompose organic material and displace disease causing fungi. There are also other types of fungi which do not grow (to my knowledge) in compost or Compost Tea which form a direct symbiotic nutrient exchange relationship with roots. This sort of fungi is called mycorrhizal fungi and there are many different species. The major microorganisms at work in Compost Tea are bacteria, protozoa (flagellates, ciliates and amoebae) and fungal hyphae if present in your compost. It is best to have a wide diversity of each of these microbes present. There are higher order organisms like nematodes found in compost and soil and occasionally these are extracted into Compost Tea but they do not grow nor multiply in the tea. Of course in the soil there are many other contributors to the nutrient cycle, like insects, earthworms and other animals. In its totality this is often referred to as the soil food web.

Fungal Hyphae (phase contrast)
fungal hyphae1

 All life is in a symbiotic nutrient cycle even down to  the microorganisms contained in our gut  that assist us  to digest certain foods. Life, consumption,  excrement, death, decomposition,  life. You are what  you eat and the same applies to plants.

 It has been discovered that aerated Compost Tea  helps to ensure the multiplication of mostly  aerobic  microbes which are more desirable in this  application. Plus the aeration provides the  agitation  necessary to dislodge the microbes from the compost. Therefore most Compost  Tea machines or brewers, as they are commonly known, involve the introduction of air into  the water and compost.

 Many Compost Tea users and producers have begun examining their brews with microscopes to see the microbes present. This ensures that they have the desired microbes in the right numbers and diversity prior to applying the tea to soil and plants. I am fairly hopeful if not certain that in the future when someone purchases a Compost Tea brewer that the kit will include a microscope. It is the identification of what is going on in this tiny universe where I find my calling.                                                                                 
                                                                                                                                                                                                              
                                                                                                                                                                 Flagellates
  Fungal Hyphae (brightfield)                                               
 fungal hyphae2

Organic Growing from a Microbial Perspective

To come to a rudimentary understanding of how organic or natural growing really works, one must cast off previous miscomprehensions from the chemical model, that when we fertilize or add compost or other organic matter, we are feeding plants. This is not the case. With true organics one is feeding the microorganisms in the soil which convert organic nutrients into a form which can be assimilated by the roots of plants. According to studies, there are only a very few plant species capable of absorbing only a very few organic nutrients. Most plants are only capable of absorbing inorganic nutrients which are made that way by microbes which live at the root to soil interface, the rhizosphere. So the idea which you have, that you are feeding your plants when they appear to need nitrogen and you feed an organic fertilizer deemed high in nitrogen, is bogus. You are feeding the microbes which feed the plants.

Chemical fertilizers, mostly derived from petroleum are inorganic and can be absorbed by the roots of plants, however they are pollutants, which kill beneficial soil microbes**, build up unused residues which run into the water table and, in my opinion, create harmful tissue changes in the plants which humans consume as food and medicine. In addition, I believe, the use of chemical fertilizers promote the incidence of plant pathogens like powdery mildew, erwinia, fusarium, pythium, etc. The grower can end up in a vicious spiraling downward fall as they use one chemical after another to control the effects brought on by the others.

The plant is no passive player in the natural growing game of survival but is the master conductor of this delicately balanced orchestra. The plant receives energy from above the soil in the form of light. This photosynthesis results in the plant’s internal production of carbon. It utilizes this carbon to create and reinforce tissue as it grows, so it is a very valuable commodity. As we all know the plant also requires a form of nitrogen (N) and other macro and micro-nutrients which it receives through the root system. As already stated this N must be in a form which the plant can directly uptake and use, usually a form of ammonia (N). Research has shown that when a plant needs to uptake N from the soil it sends out some of its precious carbon through it’s root system as a feed for bacteria and *archaea which live in the rhizosphere. [* Archaea are prokaryotes indiscernible from bacteria except through specialized testing; usually DNA] There are more complexities involved, such as, that certain plant types attract certain bacteria/archaea types but that is beyond the scope of this portrayal. When the bacterial/archaea population has increased in response to the carbons excreted by the roots, protozoa and bacterial feeding nematodes are attracted to the region, ‘hatch out’ from cysts and eggs respectively and in the case of protozoa multiply rapidly. Protozoa consist of flagellates, amoebae and ciliates. Some protozoa can multiply (divide) every 2 to 4 hours so their numbers can increase in short order. The protozoa and nematodes consume the bacteria/archaea and release, as waste, the ammonia (N) which the roots can then absorb. The multiplication rate of the bacteria/archaea increases in response to this predation and so on. This has been called the microbial loop. Protozoa are particularly good providers as their ‘digestive system’ only utilizes about 30% of the nutrients consumed meaning that roughly 70% is released as the waste which the roots crave. This factor, combined with their short generational time makes them real feeding machines. Undoubtedly there are micronutrients also processed and absorbed in this cycle. There are still many mysteries which research has yet to unfold or are not yet known to this author.

This is not the end. The concert continues. The bacteria/archaea also consume the ammonia (N) which is now bioavailable to them, so are in competition with the plant for these nutrients. Because of this, if there are no predators or insufficient numbers to consume the bacteria/archaea they could potentially lock up the N.  When the plant is growing it is in a vegetative state and requires a large load of available nitrogen (N) so it is advantageous for it to continue this release of carbon and maintain a balance of bacteria/archaea and protozoa, while uptaking just the right amounts of nutrients. Don’t get me wrong. There are other players in this orchestra, either playing subdued roles or waiting their turn to play. There are higher order animals like mites, other microarthropods and worms. There are various forms of fungi, most of which are degraders but some of which are mycorrhizal. These all have roles in breaking down organic matter into a form which can then be mineralized by the plant’s bacteria/archaea team or delivered directly to the roots.

When the plant receives its signal from the upper world, above the soil, that it is time to switch gears and produce flowers and or fruit, its nutrient requirement changes. Although the mechanics are not well known to this author, studies indicate that the plant then increases the uptake of the ammonia (N) (bioavailable nitrogen) and reduces or stops excreting the carbon which feeds the bacteria/archaea. This effectively starves the bacteria/archaea which will react by dying or becoming dormant. This of course results in a similar reaction by the protozoa and bacterial feeding nematode population. The mycorrhizal fungi previously mentioned is then triggered into increased growth and production. Studies have indicated that the transference of bioavailable phosphorus and potassium to the roots occur mainly as a function of arbuscular mycorrhizal fungal hyphae in symbiotic relationship with the roots of the plant. The fungal hyphae (microscopic strands) grow right into the root cells and exchange nutrients. In exchange for carbon, once again released by the plant, the fungal hyphae delivers the required bioavailable nutrients to the root system. The fungal structure derives these nutrients from organic matter and food sources in the soil, some naturally processed by the other players as previously mentioned. It is my hypothesis  that the form of carbon released to stimulate the mycorrhizal activity is of a varied molecular structure from that released to promote the bacteria/archaea population previously discussed, however I have no direct data to substantiate this. There are often different types of bacteria which accompany mycorrhizal fungi, adhering to the fungal hyphae in a symbiotic relationship. It is thought that these bacterial species function to exchange nutrients with the fungi as well as to protect the fungal hyphae from consumption by other microbes and even contribute to the protection of the plant from pathogenic fungi. There are other types of mycorrhizal fungi (ectomycorrhizal) which encapsulate roots rather than entering them but these are mostly associated with trees in the temperate and boreal regions.
So you see it is quite a complex arrangement which the plant conducts or controls and there are many facets which yet remain a mystery. 

** Addendum to Organic Growing From a Microbial Perspective

Okay, since I wrote Organic Growing from a Microbial Perspective I’ve received feedback which clearly outlines the need to explain the ‘chemicals killing beneficial soil microbes thing’, the role of NPK ratings as well as the pollutants statement. This feedback is justifiable. Please bear with the redundancy of the following. It reflects my attempt to be thorough.

It may be so, that some beneficial microbial life is out and out killed by chemical fertilizers but the more likely cause of death occurs over an extended period which I’ll attempt to explain.

There are bacteria/archaea that will happily feed on chemical fertilizers. Indeed, there are bacteria that will 'feast' on diesel fuel. It is more likely that the use of chemical fertilizers negatively effect soil biota over a period of time. Chemical N (for example) is (to my knowledge) delivered to the roots of plants in ionic form, bypassing the whole microbial nutrient loop, which occurs through degraded organic matter being delivered in several processes; one major way being by bacterial/archaeal [sic] predation by protozoa (& bacterial feeding nematodes). It follows logically that if chemical fertilizers are used over an extended period (days? months? years?) that the microbial nutrient cycle will slow and/or cease.

The other side to this is that plants emit compounds from their roots which feed bacteria/archaea and fungi (of species conducive to their survival[?]) as an active participant in this microbial nutrient loop. Logically, if the plant is receiving direct feed ionic nutrients it is likely to slow and/or cease this process.

I compare this to a patient receiving intravenous feeding for a period of time and then needing to slowly adjust to real food again when the IV is discontinued.

The effects over a period of time (days? months? years?) will likely cause a die off of soil biota of a particular microbial consortia but may stimulate the growth of another microbial consortia (possibly/probably not as balanced and beneficial as the natural one), possibly causing disease.

I hypothesize another factor that may have effect is that when the plant is an active participant in the microbial nutrient cycle it 'decides' what nutrients it requires in time shifts unknown to us. If we are using chemical fertilizers quite likely much goes unused by the plant or is absorbed by the plant unnecessarily, perhaps promoting disease. The unused chemicals pass into the groundwater and streams or into the atmosphere. We've all heard the detriments around that and this is the pollution to which I refer.


What about NPK in Natural Growing?

I’ll try to write something up which illustrates the difference between nutrient processing and utilization from a chemical and natural (or organic) standpoint (for want of a better word). The following information and opinion is stated by me and is derived from the citations and links provided. I use the words ‘apparently’ and ‘appears’ because I believe knowledge and science is fluid. I also don’t pretend to understand everything perfectly and may need correcting. Just because we know the Earth is not flat does not mean we know everything about it.

To simplify things I’ll restrict the discussion to the plant’s use of nitrogen (N). The forms of N which plant roots are able to uptake are in ionic form or soluble. These soluble forms of N are ammonium (NH4+) and nitrate (NO3-). Very simply stated these soluble forms of N are instantly available in chemical N and there is no need for any bacterial/archaeal (B/A) mineralization to make them available to the roots of plants. There is some indication that some soluble ammonium is utilized by B/A and mineralized into nitrates, however this appears (to me) somewhat an opportunistic occurrence (from the B/A perspective). So yes we can concur that B/A eats and thrives on some chemically provided ions but this action is not a necessary one for the plant to uptake exactly the same ions as are being consumed by the B/A. In certain circumstances the B/A will be in competition with the plant for these nutrients. So it appears that plants can grow in this fashion without interaction by mineralizing B/A. It appears that the chemically provided ions (soluble N) completely bypass the microbial nutrient cycle.

With natural or organic growing, N ( R-NH2 ) for the plant is contained (sequestered) in a non-soluble (non-ionic) form in organic matter (or in the case of the gardener; compost and other soil foods). It is true that there are certain known bacteria (and now some archaea) which directly fix and supply ionic forms of N to the roots of plants and this is an area where ‘we’ are still learning so all is not known by any stretch. However soil scientists have discovered and it is common knowledge (as knowledge goes) that the bulk of NH4+ and NO3- are delivered to the roots of plants by protozoa (flagellates, amoebae and ciliates). This occurs in a complex network ostensibly, controlled in large degree by the plant. The plant releases compounds from the roots which feed B/A, thereby increasing the B/A population. The B/A consumes/processes forms of R-NH2 or forms which are pre-degraded by fungi and or other B/A. The B/A further multiply with a good supply of food and their large population encourages the excysting (hatching from cysts) and dividing of protozoa. The protozoa prey upon the B/A and in an approximate 30 minute period complete the excretion of NH4+ and/or NO3- available to the roots of the plants. Apparently protozoa only utilize 30 to 40 percent of the nutrient consumed  making 60 to 70% available to plants and many have a division cycle of 2 hours so the efficiency of this nutrient delivery system is considerable. Just as it began, the microbial N cycle can be rapidly shut down by chemical emissions from the plant. It is apparent that the nutrient needs of the plant can change within short periods (perhaps in hours). There is much yet unknown, however I hypothesize that even disease control may be effected by a sudden reduction of N in the rhizosphere. This is certainly something which cannot be effectively manipulated by chemical N applications.

My goal in writing this was to illustrate the stark differences between the use by a plant of chemically provided ions and those derived through the microbial nutrient cycle. I believe I have succeeded. There are other ways which plants obtain N, such as through fungal interactions but that is nature; always have a back up.

I did fail to find information detailing the effects of chemical soluble N on protozoa populations. Although we humans have great confidence in our ability to mimic natural molecules sometimes we discover it is the subtle variances going unnoticed which end up having the greatest effects.

Some References; 
Email me if you wish to track down these references.

Protozoa and plant growth:  2003;
the microbial loop in soil revisited;     Michael Bonkowski;
Rhizosphere Ecology Group, Institut für Zoologie, Technische Universität Darmstadt,
Darmstadt, Germany

Soil microbial loop and nutrient uptake by plants: a test
using a coupled C:N model of plant–microbial interactions
Xavier Raynaud Jean-Christophe Lata
Paul W. Leadley
Plant Soil
DOI 10.1007/s11104-006-9003-9

The mycorrhiza helper bacteria revisited; 2007 P. Frey-Klett, J. Garbaye and M. Tarkka
Interactions Arbres/Micro-organismes, Champenoux, France;
UFZ-Department of Soil Ecology, Helmholz Centre for Environmental
Research, Halle, Germany

Modern Soil Microbiology; 2nd edition 2007 - Chapter 6 - Protozoa and Other Protista in Soil
Marianne Clarholm, Michael Bonkowski, and Bryan Griffiths

Soil protozoa: an under-researched microbial group gaining momentum
Marianne Clarholm
Department of Forest Mycology and Pathology, Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences (SLU), Box 7026, S-750 07 Uppsala, Sweden
Soil Biology & Biochemistry 37 (2005) 811–817

SOIL BIOTA, SOIL SYSTEMS, AND PROCESSES
David C. Coleman
University of Georgia

I created a PDF from a write up I found on the WSU website. I created this without permission but I believe the authors won't mind. I think some may find it helps to clarify the NPK cycle, etc.
NPK Cycle
The link for the write up is    http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/eb1722/eb1722.html                                                                                                               

How to Apply All This to Horticultural Activities

You say, okay so that’s how it works but how do I apply that to my growing situation? The answer is pretty simple really. You need to assure that there is organic matter, mostly in the form of composted plant and animal (manure) substances in or on your soil for a microbial inoculant and food source. Additionally you can add microbial foodstocks such as diluted fish hydrolysate and molasses and kelp meal, alfalfa meal and rock phosphate and other clay and rock powders if available. It is very good to include rock phosphate in your composting process if you are making your own. Rock phosphate in the compost adds a long lasting source of phosphorus for microbes to draw from. At time of planting it is highly beneficial to place some mycorrhizal fungi spores in the hole or on the root system. You can research the best strain of fungi for the plants you are growing and purchase the spores from a number of suppliers. [ http://www.mycorrhizae.com   http://www.fungi.com ] You may also consider seeding companion edible mushrooms which provide a dual benefit of cycling nutrients to your plants and providing your breakfast. You may research this at the fungi.com site. The rest is governed by the plant, as previously discussed, assuming that all the necessary components are available from the organic matter and additional foodstocks provided. In my opinion manipulation of the pH is not a wise practice in natural growing unless dramatic acidity or alkalinity are measured. Soil with a healthy microbial population tends to self regulate the pH. One should disturb the soil as little as possible so as to leave fungal growth and strands intact. I realize this is challenging when growing in containers. I have run trials where wooden bins were constructed (2’x3’x1.5’ deep) where soil was successfully left intact after annual plants were harvested and replanted over several seasons. In between plantings composting worms were introduced to help consume the residual dead roots and plant matter. The worms were later trapped out. Compost tea was applied regularly to boost the soil microbial population. Over time there developed something of a miniature ecosystem complete with mushrooms, rove beetles and other beneficial bugs. If you are growing in smaller containers it is a good idea to provide a high volume of quality compost and or vermicompost at the onset.

Some people grow herbs and edible produce in containers organically. Because this has been practiced extensively utilizing chemical fertilizers, there is a period where growers have flushed the soil with copious amounts of water, the thought being that they are removing the harsh or harmful chemicals from the plant tissues. Too late! Those chemicals are already integrated into what you plan to put on your dinner plate or in your medicinal tea or pipe. At least that’s my opinion. If you have grown your produce naturally allowing the plant to be in control, this flushing routine is not only unnecessary but sort of stupid. Since plants are not able to uptake organic nutrients, what exactly would you be flushing away? You might instead be water logging your soil and roots.

Using Compost Tea

The use of compost tea (CT) is one of the best ways to inoculate your soil with the beneficial microbes you wish to have for optimum health of your plants. It is also good if your supply of compost or vermicompost is limited, as it multiplies those microbes, we have been discussing, by the millions. Remember the protozoa I mentioned earlier? Well you can brew an aerated compost tea specifically to have a large population of protozoa, usually mostly flagellates. If you have a good quality compost or vermicompost, protozoa will already be present, often in a resting cyst. If you have an efficient aerated brewer you can pretty much count on having a high flagellate (protozoa) population combined with bacteria/archaea and fungal hyphae (not mycorrhizal) at 36 to 44 hours brew time (65 to 72 degrees F). If you have a microscope you can examine the CT periodically to be sure that the microbial population is optimum. The use of aerated compost tea also provides the opportunity to manipulate microbial populations for specific purposes by using various recipes and brew times. You may wish to have high bacterial or fungal numbers for pathogen/disease control or have soil or plants that require a higher population of a microbial type. I have a lot to learn yet of fungal species which can grow in compost tea so until I have learned to identify the species occurring I’m cautious about some of the tricks employed to stimulate fungal hyphae growth in compost. Better to count on good quality compost and vermicompost with natural occurring quantities and species of fungi and use known mycorrhizal and mushroom spores in the soil.

As always, I am open to correction or refinement of what I have written.

Salutations,
Tim


So You Wanna Build A Compost Tea Brewer

Terms:
* = degree(s); CT = compost tea; ACT = aerated compost tea; O2 = oxygen; CO2 = carbon dioxide
 DO2 = dissolved oxygen; CFM = cubic feet per minute; PPM = parts per million

There are several ways to make your own compost tea brewer which may not produce the equivalent results to some commercially available models but should provide you with a microbial extract you can apply to your soil and plants. When I first started messing around with brewers, I experimented with what we had lying in our various junk heaps around the farm; cast-offs from buying the wrong part at the plumbing store, outdated irrigation systems, left over pipe, dead vehicles and other modern broken things. Therefore, if you are a junk collector like me, you may already have much of what you require to build a compost tea brewer.

First of all I’d like to make it clear that most aquarium air pumps don’t produce enough air to use in a container larger than 1 gallon when considering making  an aerated brewer. So don’t even try the 5 gallon pail with the aquarium pump idea everybody is passing around. You need a minimum 0.05 CFM  (cubic feet per minute), open flow of air and an optimum 0.08 CFM per gallon (US) or higher to make aerated compost tea (ACT). ACT should have the DO2 sustained at or above 6 PPM. Generally, aquarium pumps produce around 0.02 to 0.16 CFM. Another generality is that 25 watts of power usually produces 0.75 to 1.0 CFM in diaphragm air pumps. The wattage is usually marked on the pump which will help you figure out the approximate output. I’ll cover more on air pumps later.
 
In the following I will outline some simple methods of building a variety of compost tea makers. I am not going to discuss anaerobic methods at this time. Later on I may add some sketches.

1/ Stir Method: The cheapest way to make compost tea is the old fashioned way. Just add compost to clean, non-chlorinated, water (above 65 degrees F. recommended)  and stir like mad with a clean stick or whathaveyou. I’d recommend using about 3 to 5% compost by volume of water and stir it up as often as you can over an 8 to 12 hour period. Some people do it over a 24 hour period and also add some foodstock like molasses, fish hydrolysate and kelp. You can experiment with different times and ingredients and decide for yourself. If you have a microscope, check it out. When you feel that you have a completed compost tea (CT) you can remove it in several ways. If you have just used a 5 gallon pail you can simply let the particulate matter settle and pour the clearer CT off into watering cans or your sprayer.

Filtering;
You can place a submersible pump into a mesh bag as a screen, drop it into the tank (barrel, pail) and pump the CT out. I use a regular cheap sump pump for this with a 800 to 1000 micron mesh bag (about the size of window screen) See the testing I did;
Does Microbial Life Survive Pump Impellers? . You can purchase mesh bags at www.aquaticeco.com or make your own. Likewise, you can filter the CT by placing the same size screen over top of another pail and pour or siphon the CT through the mesh into the other vessel. If residue builds up, stop and clean off the mesh. As residue builds up it stops the passage of the microbes you want. Never run CT through a pipe constrained filter unless essential as part of your irrigation system or spray rig.

2/ The Venturi Method: If you only have a water pump and wish to make a compost tea brewer you can inject air into the water by using a venturi. I have provided a sketch and text showing how to make your own or you can purchase them from http://www.aquaticeco.com . Basically the venturi creates a vacuum which interfaces with the water as it passes by, sucking air and mixing it with the water. It is quite an efficient method of oxygenating water. If you have a really tough water pump which does not clog, like a trash pump, you may run this type of brewer without a mesh extractor bag. Most are going to want to use a mesh extractor, so I recommend TEEing your water line downstream from the venturi with one return line suspended above the water and the other return line going into the mesh extractor. Undoubtedly you will require a valve to regulate the flow so all of the water does not just take the easiest route to the pipe suspended over the water. To build a CT brewer beyond the stir method, some basic knowledge of fitting plumbing parts and pipes together is essential, as well as some engineering instincts. If you are not up for this just save yourself the aggravation and buy a brewer. You may use your imagination for a mesh extractor. For a small brewer of 100 gallons or less, 400 microns is an ideal mesh size. Sometimes for large brewers which may run for several days to establish a functional nutrient cycling consortia a larger mesh size like 800 µm may be a better choice. This is because, as noted above, the mesh may clog up a little over time. A friend of mine successfully brewed CT using this method in a 5000 gallon brewer for many years. He used 2, barrel sized mesh extractor bags sewn from landscape cloth. He ran a return line into each bag, which was ¾  full of compost and tied off each bag tightly around the pipe so nothing could get out the top. These were dropped into the water (with his tractor) and 2 other return pipes pumped in oxygenated water. You can use your imagination to create mesh extractors, dependent on the size of your brewer, the materials at hand and what works for you. You can even create a basket which is partially above the surface to prevent particulate escape. These systems are not great for extracting and growing fungal hyphae but they produce bacteria/archaea and protozoa just fine.

The Gas Exchange;
The reason for suspending the other pipe(s) above the water is so it splashes into the water, breaking the water’s surface tension and additionally pushing more air into the water like a water fall or running river does. The surface tension of water is unique in its toughness; it surpasses that of oil. When I first started experimenting with the venturi method I had the return pipe submerged. The effects were profound. As the water filled with air, generated by the venturi, the water level rose, even over flowing my 1200 gallon tank. At the time, I thought this was a good sign that I was oxygenating the water. Sure, I was getting air in but was not getting the maximum dissolved oxygen possible with my system. Later when I learned that gas exchange means, ‘trading one gas for another’, I realized that the surface tension must be broken for the optimum gas exchange to occur. In this case, we are trading carbon dioxide (CO2) for oxygen (O2) or dissolved oxygen (DO2). CO2 must make way for DO2. In water, CO2 has two ways of being dissipated (of which I am aware). It is either used by organisms, like water plants or it must escape at the surface interface. In a brewer we have no plants and the microbes we are growing use O2 and create CO2, so the CO2 must escape at the surface. Because of the high surface tension of water, if we break the surface, this escape or release is facilitated and we improve the efficiency of our CT brewer.  Once we started suspending the return pipe above the surface, providing a hardy splash to break the surface, we had no further over flows and the DO2 increased. NOTE: This principle applies to air driven brewers as well. The better the surface tension is broken, the better the capacity to contain DO2 in the water.

3/ The Vortex Method: There are many who claim that running water in a vortex pattern comprised of multiple mini vortices changes the properties of water beneficially. I remain dubious but open-minded. You can form your own opinion on this subject. One thing a vortex brewer is very good for is ensuring a full circulation of all the water and compost added. There can be no ‘dead zones’; none of the feared anaerobic pockets!! There is no point to considering the use of a mesh extractor with a vortex brewer unless you conceive of some genius method of suspending a mesh container in the center of the flow. Therefore this design is for those of you who don’t mind using compost in free suspension and deal with the particulate matter later. A vortex action in a CT brewer is pretty much dependent on the shape of the vessel used, combined with the direction of the input flow ‘nozzles’ or pipe ends and finally on the ability of the design to empty from a centrally located opening at the bottom of the vessel and the return of the water emptied, to the top of the vessel, to repeat the trip. Shapewise, you must use a round configured vessel. The most efficient shape is a cone shape with a drain hole at the bottom. Rather than go through a complex description of how to construct an air driven vortex brewer, I’m including this Internet link which illustrates a design by Steven Storch which he has offered up to the public;
http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/turbo-vortex.htm One with engineering instincts will come up with a variety of ways to modify this design. For example this design can be transposed to a 50 gallon sized barrel with a drain hole placed in the bottom. You would of course need a larger air pump and need to set the barrel up on blocks or legs. These systems produce a full compliment of microbes (bacteria/archaea, protozoa and fungal hyphae).

One can also create a vortex brewer using a water pump to return the water to the top of the vessel again. Very handy if that is what you have laying around in your junk pile. The advanced thinkers will have already mindfully jumped to the idea that including a venturi with a water pump driven vortex is going to increase its efficiency exponentially. Well….at least a lot. Give yourself a gold star, a pat on the back, a chocolate cookie. Bear in mind, that if you use a water pump you will limit fungal hyphae extraction and growth.

4/ Bubble Blowers; There are 2 basic styles of commercial bubble blower CT brewers. What I mean by bubble blowers, is that their function depends on just that; blowing bubbles into the water, into a mesh extractor or both. They do not actively move the water, aside from the effect of the bubbles. Because of this, I find it a paradox that they refer to their units as AACT (actively aerated compost tea) brewers to separate themselves from only, aerated compost tea (ACT) brewers, which supposedly just blow air into water. This remains a mystery unto me. I won’t name these brewers because they include almost every commercial brewer available, except mine of course, which should be separated from those by being called an AAACT brewer (giggle). No offense; just kidding around.

Anyway, back to business. A very simple method you can use to make an aerated CT brewer is to use some rigid PVC thin walled pipe (not schedule 40 because it is difficult to make tiny holes in) of approximately ½  inch to ¾ inch size. Rigid pipe is better than flex pipe because it holds its shape, can be cleaned more easily and is easier to drill and saw. Use a straight piece which is approximately as long as your proposed tank is high, joined to a 90* elbow, then following the dimensional circumference of the bottom of your tank build a roughly round hexagon or octagon or whateveragon alternating with PVC fittings (45* or 11*, 22* to 30* if you can find them http://pvcfittings.com ) and short lengths of pipe, terminating just before you hit the elbow which the long pipe slides into. Over the end of this last piece of pipe in your whateveragon slide a cap. None of this needs to be glued (usually) because we are not dealing with high pressure and the whole thing can be taken apart for easy cleaning. We now need three more things. An air supply, an air input interface with the pipe and diffusers. A diffuser is an interface between air and water which ‘diffuses’ of course, air into the water. No matter what name people give it, like orifice or air stone, hole, slit or slot, it is still a diffuser. The smaller the diffuser opening within the capacity of the air pump to push air through easily, the greater the efficiency at raising and maintaining the dissolved oxygen. Therefore you want to put the smallest holes or slits possible at intervals in the short pieces of pipe you used to construct your whateveragon. If you have an electric drill you can drill 1/16th inch holes. You can try cutting slits with a razor knife or very fine hack saw or other blade. A hacksaw cuts around 1000 microns width. I get machined slots which are 254 microns. Make your openings so they are coming out the bottom angled towards the center to begin with. (The pipe is not glued so you can rotate them). For your first trial only put a few air openings in each length of pipe (e.g. 2” spaces). We want the air traveling all the way to the end of the whateveragon. Now to try it out, I guess we better get some air happening.

First of all, for your air input you need to match air tubing with your air pump and get a threaded barbed fitting that the tubing fits over and a slip X female threaded coupling to go over your long straight piece of PVC pipe which goes down and joins to your whateveragon. This, you may need to glue.
I have provided a rudimentary representative sketch to help illustrate the basic construction >click here

A Word About Diaphragm Air Pumps;
If you are going to buy a pump to run your aerated CT brewer, I can recommend the Eco Plus Commercial 5 (4 CFM max.) for up to 50 gallons and the Eco Plus Commercial 1 (1.75 CFM max.) for up to 10 gallons. I’m sorry but I cannot recommend a retailer for these pumps. I buy them wholesale and perhaps if you contact them, they can refer you to a retailer. http://www.nationalgardenwholesale.com
I can also recommend Hailea 9730 pumps (2 CFM max.) which you can purchase from www.aquaticeco.com and other places. These are solid, long lasting pumps and I know other commercial brewers use them for 50 gallons but I just can’t recommend them for more than 30 gallons. If you use one for a 5 gallon unit it will last virtually forever. All of these pumps come with a little threaded brass fitting for screwing into the air output. DO NOT USE THESE! Put them in your parts drawer. These constrict the air and reduce your CFM by at least 20%. Rather, find tubing which slides over the nipple into which the threads are tapped. In the case of the Eco Plus 5 and the Hailea, 5/8ths inside diameter works. Slide the air tubing over and secure with a gear clamp. The Eco Plus has a very short nipple so I score the metal with a couple of swipes with a hacksaw to create barbs for the tubing to grip. You can find tubing at a building supply like Home Depot or Rona in Canada. I use the braided reinforced stuff which does not kink. Always try to keep your pump at or above the surface of the water so it does not siphon back if the power fails.

Now that we have our air supply you can slide the tubing over the barbed fitting air input on the end of your straight piece of PVC and fire her up. Ooops! Forgot the spring clamp. You can use a spring clamp to pinch the long PVC air pipe to the edge of your tank at the top. This keeps the hole thing from floating and you can adjust the distance your whateveragon is from the bottom. Spring clamps are like giant clothes pegs http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,43838&p=41712
http://www.hobbytool.com/springclamps.aspx
I’m sure you can find them at Home Depot too or you may think up another idea (like a ‘C’ clamp).

Okay fire up the pump and fill up your tank (pail, barrel) with water. Watch the amount of air coming out of the openings you made. What we want is air coming out right to the end of the whateveragon and even dispersal all around and we want really broiling water bubbling up to the surface. The reason I suggested angling the openings on the bottom towards the center of the tank is so it would sweep right up from the base. You can raise it closer to the surface to get a better look at how evenly the air is coming out. You can also just put the air tube end in the water, right to the bottom so you can get an idea of your air potential and how much should be coming out of the holes you made. You don’t want to restrict the air flow. If you feel comfortable that you need more air coming out start adding more openings (on top), beginning at the cap end on the top of the pipe and working your way around towards the air input. You’ll get the hang of it. If you screw up, no biggy cause you are using really short pieces of very cheap pipe, not glued and you can redo and experiment to your heart’s content.

This is very similar to the KIS 5 gallon brewer (a very efficient little brewer; buy one if you don't like doing this) so their compost brew kits will be ideal to use with this. You can use this system with compost and feedstock in free suspension (added directly to the water) or in the case of a 5 gallon set up you can probably get away with placing your compost and solid food into a mesh bag tightly tied up and floating around in the water. The turbulence may keep it suspended. You could put some fishing floats or ping pong balls in it to be sure it won’t sink.

If you wish to use an extractor bag with a larger brewer, then you can use a variation of the set up previously described, except that you have a PVC air line entering your (tube/sock shaped) mesh extractor bag with diffuser openings close to the bottom of the bag and with a cap on the end of the pipe. This pipe should go very close to the bottom of the bag. You will need to tie off or fashion a lid for the extractor bag or keep the top above the water surface. As stated previously, 400 microns is the optimum sized mesh to use. You may purchase a variety of mesh bags from http://www.aquaticeco.com  . You can experiment with the number of diffuser openings which provides sufficient agitation. These types of systems depend upon the agitation of the compost against the mesh, caused by the air, to extract the microbes from the compost. Some systems have no additional air diffusion outside of the mesh extractor, while others incorporate one or more additional diffusers. One could TEE off from the air line, one diffuser going into the mesh bag, the other into the water. A valve to regulate the air flow would be necessary in this case. Alternatively one could use two air pumps. One could combine both designs, using a whateveragon diffuser and another pipe going into the mesh extractor.

Diffusers;
One could incorporate good quality glass bonded diffusers if one did not wish to mess with PVC pipes and making their own diffusers. These diffusers are resistant to break down by microbes and can be cleaned with muriatic acid (but are not environmentally friendly to clean). They are called Sweetwater medium bore diffusers and are available at http://www.aquaticeco.com . They are far superior to homemade PVC diffusers in terms of sustaining DO2 because they produce finer bubbles . There is no truth (that I have seen) to the statement that fine bubbles damage some microbes.

Anaerobes;
Many people are overly anxious about having any anaerobic microbes in their CT. If you have a tremendous number of ciliates in your CT, or if it stinks to high heavens, there is a likelihood that your CT has gone anaerobic and you should toss it. However, I would not worry about seeing a healthy number of ciliates (if you have a microscope), especially if there are also high numbers of flagellates and/or amoebae. Additionally anaerobic (facultative and obligate) bacteria and archaea occur naturally in the soil and other environments and their existence is part of the balance of nature so don’t worry if you have a few in your consortia.

Cleaning;
You should clean out your brewer after each use, especially the extractor bag if you use one.

Conversions;
1 US gallon = 3.78 litres (liters)
1 US quart = 0.946 litre (liter)
1 micrometer or micron (µm) = 0.000039 inch (39/100000ths)
For converting mesh to microns: http://chemplazaonline.com/meshsizecoverter.aspx      

I think I’ve covered the basics. If anyone has any suggestions or if you notice any errors, please speak up.


My DVD  dvd set


 I have produced a narrated DVD condensed to 1 hour, 43  minutes from hours and hours of live real  time video  captured through an interface of a Leitz Orthoplan  microscope, a Sony high definition  video camera and a  computer. No film was used in this process. The purpose of  this video is to  assist folks who are using microscopes to  identify the microbes they are observing in their compost,  soil and compost tea.

 It includes some examples of; 1/ what microbes you should  see in a finished compost tea,   
 2/  bacteria, 3/ flagellates, 4/  ciliates, 5/ amoebae (3,4 &5 comprise the three groups of  Protozoa),
 6/ fungal hyphae, 7/ yeast cells,
 8/ nematodes, 9/ rotifers
and 10/ compost examination.

 For those of you without microscopes the DVD offers a  good visual representation of what is going  on in your  Compost Tea and soil.

 The DVD is a set of 2 discs in a case. The cost is $40.00  USD including shipping by mail anywhere  in the USA or  Canada. Quotes will be given for other methods of shipping  or for shipping to other  countries. Wholesale prices are available to distributors. Please email me with your inquiry. Presently  the DVD is available in NTSC format.

 The preferred form of payment is by PayPal. If you are not presently registered with PayPal it is easy,  secure, free and it allows the use of credit cards. I will receive payment immediately and can ship the  DVD right out to you. I can email you a PayPal invoice which makes the whole process easy. To register with Paypal in your country just Google 'PayPal'.
If you would prefer to send money by another method please email me at;   thegoodjob@hotmail.com

  PLEASE DO NOT SEND PAYPAL PAYMENTS TO THE ABOVE EMAIL ADDRESS      $40.00  USD

Click on the following video link (4.7 MB) to download a 'wmv' (Windows Media Video) to your computer. Depending on your download speed it may take a while. It is an example of what sort of footage is included in the DVD.
Video link

NOTE RE VIDEOS; If you are unable to view the videos and have a Windows operating system, you may need to initiate, dowload or update Windows Media Player.

Please email me to place your order. thegoodjob@hotmail.com

What Folks Have Said About the DVD Set;

"Hi Tim,
I want to let you know that I have thoroughly enjoyed your video, it was very well done. In the last part of the first DVD, I found it funny that I was actually drawn in and was rooting for that protozoa that was on the final stages of it's life. I have watched it over a few nights, and during the day on my way to and from work on the bus, I have been reading Teaming With Microbes. They complement each other very well and helped me to understand a whole lot more than when I was laboring through biology classes in grade 12. I wish this kind of material, in such an easy to understand format was around when I was in grade school."
Deighton King

"I want to back up Tim's suggestion that you consider a purchase of his DVDs. If you have a scope it is a valuable aid right up there with Dr. Elaine's manual. Way to go Tim!" 
Jeff Lowenfels; Author; Teaming With Microbes; Available at Amazon & KIS; Looking forward to a new edition in the Spring of 2010

"Jeff is right -- they are truly fabulous and I think are essential to have -- even if members here have a microscope because there's simply no way your set up matches Tim's or can reveal what Tim has done here. Not even close! What an introduction to the Microcosmos! Wonderful job, Tim. And finally, if I may, this is the perfect real time, real world companion piece to our book, "Teaming With Microbes"
Wayne Lewis, Alaska Humus Co., Anchorage; Author; Teaming With Microbes

"I'll second the endorsement for Tim Wilson's DVD.It's a great educational tool for students of soil biology and compost teas. As you may have gathered, Tim has a better-than-average microscope setup so the microscope footage is both clear and fascinating. He captures moving images with brightfield and phase contrast microscopy.The DVD is organized section by section according to microbial group. The microscopy clips are accompanied with voice-over explanations by Tim. Some of the images of ciliates, flagellates, nematodes, rotifers, fungal hyphae provide high definition closeups.  The comments by Tim provide insight to microbial groups and their characteristics as well as practical know-how on microscopy (often with a sense of Canadian humor, eh?).
Good job, Tim, and congratulations on this DVD that's been years in the making."
Steve Diver


Some Photo, Video and Linked Resources for Organism Identification:

Vorticella (<5 MB) This is little video of a Vorticella ciliate

Here is Part 1 and Part 2  PDFs of some photos and notes I put together to assist folks with idendifying soil, compost and compost tea microbes. Please use these PDFs freely for educational purposes. Part 1 includes bacteria, flagellates, amoebae, ciliates and fungal hyphae. Part 2 covers nematodes and rotifers.

Here are links (which I hope remain current) to Internet resources which will assist in microbial identification.


Mastigophora - Flagellates

http://protist.i.hosei.ac.jp/PDB/Images/Protista/MastigophoraE.html

Ciliophora - Ciliates

http://protist.i.hosei.ac.jp/PDB/Images/Protista/CiliophoraE.html

Sarcodina (Sarcodia) - Amoebae

http://protist.i.hosei.ac.jp/PDB/Images/Protista/SarcodiaE.html

http://now.ifmo.ru/amecol/frames.htm

http://amoeba.ifmo.ru/guide.htm

You can find good images of testate amoebae by googling Edward Mitchell + testate amoebae

Fungi Images & Info

http://www.uoguelph.ca/~gbarron/index.htm

http://www.mycolog.com/index.html

Actinobacteria (mycetes)

Digital Atlas of Actinomycetes

http://www.nih.go.jp/saj/DigitalAtlas


Lots of cool organisms by Wim

http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/indexmag.html?http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/wimsmall/smal1.html

Who I am

Tim Wilson
 My name is Tim Wilson. I am a self-taught researcher/scientist. I do not  possess a degree but did study a wide  range of courses at university,  some of them post-graduate courses I was allowed into based on my  knowledge  level at the time. Many of you will know me by my  contributions to the Yahoo Compost Tea discussion forum.  Presently I  reside on a 100+ acre farm in the southern interior of British Columbia,  Canada. I am just north of a  dot on the map called Westbridge.


Other Projects
I have designed a new Compost Tea brewer called the Microbulator 50 which is described below.  It is different from other brewers I have seen, in that the water is actively circulated through a pipe while being charged with air and returned to the tank from an elevated position with use of only an air pump. It sustains a higher than average dissolved oxygen level. It works with or without an extraction bag. 

I hope to produce more helpful DVDs if this first one goes over well. The next project I have in mind is to create a DVD which instructs microscope use specific to the observation of living microbial samples. It will teach some tricks to enhance the images seen with a basic brightfield compound microscope.

Please email me if you have questions or comments at;  thegoodjob@hotmail.com


The Microbulator 50;  A 50 (US) gallon compost tea brewer        Price: $489.00 USD
{Patents pending in Canada & USA on design and method related to all sizes and configurations.}

Video Clips of Operation
Details & Questions
Purchase & Shipping

Ugly But Efficient & Cheap!

Features:
* Active flow-circulation induced by air alone; 6.3 gallons/minute
* Efficient gas exchange system for excellent dissolved oxygen maintenance
* Works with or without an extractor bag (extractor unit included)
* Two different ways to configure apparatus
* Translucent barrel promotes the growth of phototrophic microorganisms
* 3.5 CFM diaphragm air pump with 1 year warranty
* Can be dismantled and cleaned in under 40 minutes, including the barrel
* Sturdy parts used in manufacture
* Specially designed machine slotted PVC diffusers
* Operational instruction on DVD included
* Inexpensive; $489.00 USD without barrel;  Please inquire if you wish to purchase complete with barrel
* See it in operation > View the video clips below
Payment & Shipping:
Please see payment options below; Credit card payments are accepted through Paypal. To register with Paypal in your country just Google 'PayPal'

See the video clips below for microbial data and basic operation.

Details, Details

As of  2007, I am taking orders for the 50 Gallon Microbulator compost tea brewer or as I affectionately call it, a microbe extractor and multiplier (bioreactor). One of my largest obstacles in getting to this point was deciding on a price. My goal from the beginning was to provide an affordable, efficient device geared to the small farmer/grower who doesn’t need the fancy looking brewer, just one that works and is easily cleaned. During the end phase of development and testing I discovered that my device would not work in just any shape of tank so be sure you use a 55 gallon (US) barrel of the correct dimensions. I will provide barrel specs with purchase. I have kept my overall mark-up lower than the norm resulting in a price much lower than similar sized commercial brewers. My price is $489.00 USD without barrel. Other similar sized brewers on the market are much more expensive. Compare for yourself.  People deciding to provide their own container will need to ensure the correct dimensions. These barrels are easily found in all localities.

While visiting Tad Hussey at Keep It Simple Inc. (compost tea brewers) in Seattle, I showed him video footage of the Microbulator 50 operating. He commented that it might be ‘not pretty enough’ for some consumers. When I told him my expected price range he coined the phrase ‘ugly and cheap’. I decided to incorporate that into my sales pitch mantra ‘Ugly but Cheap and Efficient’. After all; the beauty of a John Deere tractor is in the eye of the beholder but as we farmers all know ‘nothing runs like Deere’.  Tad has decided to offer the Microbulator 50 through his website. He is also selling a specialized nutrient pack (Pro Kit) and compost just for this brewer.

The Microbulator 50 works with or without an extractor bag. That decision is the owner’s, based on the planned uses, application method and coarseness of the compost used.

Now, how does this work and what makes it different than other commercial brewers on the market?

My design, unlike other commercial brewers I have seen, does not just blow air into water or into the extractor bag but actively circulates the water while charging it with oxygen. This is done using only an air pump. No water pump is involved. This is accomplished by a diffuser housing fixture I designed and built which incorporates the diffuser inside an 1 ½  inch PVC pipe [1.25 inch industry size]. The whole 50 gallons of water is cycled through this pipe every 8 minutes at a measured flow rate of at least 6.3 gallons per minute. The water is drawn from two opposing sides of the bottom of the tank, pushed past the diffuser, while being injected with O2, up the pipe and through the return nozzle suspended about 2 to 5 inches above the water’s surface, falling back into the liquid, pushing O2 into the water by breaking the surface tension barrier, facilitating the release of CO2 from the tank and the absorption of O2 (gas exchange). This is not unlike the action of a waterfall or flow form. This action pushes the oxygenated water into the body of water further raising the dissolved oxygen content. Because the water intake openings are located at opposing sides at the bottom of the barrel, a current-like flow is created and maintained so any still areas of water are highly unlikely. The release of CO2 is essential to create space in water for the absorption of dissolved oxygen and the only way for CO2 to be released in a CT brewer is through the surface. At the same time a large slotted PVC diffuser is infusing the whole body of water with air.  Oxygen is absorbed by the interface of the bubbles created on the way to the surface and the surface tension barrier is broken again by the bubble turbulence, allowing the further release of carbon dioxide and the maintenance of dissolved oxygen. By this means, there are three interfaces where O2 is being injected into the water or compost tea.

This highly efficient yet very simple method is generally able to raise and maintain the dissolved oxygen (DO2) content of fresh well water having a TDS/EC of 21 to 30 PPM and temperature of 18 C to 21 C (65 F – 70 F) at least 3 PPM (parts per million) above the natural DO2. Using the same water within the same temperature range, with; 4% compost/vermicompost, 0.75% black strap molasses, 0.25% kelp meal and 0.063% fish hydrolysate, the DO2 is maintained at 8.8 to 9.8 PPM up to a 48 hour brew time. Please note that these are maximum amounts of compost inputs and not recommended for people brewing without microscopes.

The circulating action, the force of impact with the water’s surface along with the air from diffusers provides sufficient agitation to break the microbes loose from their binding spots in the compost. The continuous flow provides a more homogeneous dispersal of oxygen and microbes, avoiding still water areas where potential undesired microbial life may develop. Once free swimming or bound to smaller particles, the bacteria, archaea, yeast cells and fungal hyphae graze on the feed supplied and multiply or grow.

Maintaining a reasonably high rate of dissolved oxygen in the body of water is essential to the device’s efficiency for extracting and multiplying the beneficial aerobic microbes, consisting of; archaea, bacteria, fungal hyphae, flagellates, amoebae, some ciliates, yeast cells and yeast fungal hyphae. Because of the constant cycling, microbes are fairly evenly distributed throughout the tank. To get a sample, simply hold a container under the return nozzle.

With Extractor Unit;
The Microbulator can be used in free suspension or with mesh extractor bag configurations. A specifically designed diffuser is used in the bag while the internal diffuser continues circulating the water/tea breaking the surface tension. Both configurations are good for multi-purpose compost tea but using the extractor radically reduces particulate matter in the tea and is good to use for foliar disease suppression. The extractor should be used if you are using coarse compost with pieces between 1/2 inch and 1 inch cubed. See the demo video below.

The highest microbial numbers are going to be developed using the device configured for the compost placed in free suspension but if one requires the extractor for a reduction in particulate matter this configuration provides a comparative alternative.

Free Suspension;
On the farm we usually use the Microbulator 50 without the extractor, remove the apparatus once the brew is complete, allowing the particles to settle to the bottom, lower in a submersible pump just above the level of the spent compost/particles and pump out the clearer compost tea. Alternatively one can place the pump in a mesh bag (fly screen size) and drop it in or simply scoop out the compost tea with a pail or watering can. Afterwards dump out the thick leftover slurry onto your soil or compost pile. If you are using vermicompost any worm eggs/capsules/cases remaining will still hatch once in the soil or in a non-hot compost pile.

What did you use and why?

Pump: I settled on the Eco Plus Commercial diaphragm operated air pump. I was first using the Hailea 9730 (rated at 60 LPM) but the air flow was just not strong enough to support 50 gallons of compost tea and it is only warrantied for 6 months. The Eco Plus puts out a whopping 3.4 to 3.6 CFM (<>100 LPM) configured the way we use it. The flow on each pump is tested with our flow meter prior to being shipped. On top of this the pump is warrantied for one year and replacement parts are available if it does quit. It is a little noisier (the price of power) and because it is lighter it wants to vibrate around. To cease the wandering and help with the noise I’ve included a little rubber damper mat with each kit.
IMPORTANT NOTE: I did not use a check valve for the pump because it prohibits air flow so the pump must be placed above or at the same level of the water surface to prevent back flow if there is a power outage or the pump is turned off.

The Air Tubing; The air tubing is heavy duty 7/8 inch braid reinforced clear vinyl. I tried the regular clear stuff but it kinked too much and wore quickly. Each kit includes enough tubing for the device to insert into the barrel plus 6 feet for lead to the pump. You can decide where to place the pump and trim the excess accordingly. Remember the pump must be above or at the same level of the water surface.

Clamps: We have, as of January 2009, started using stainless steel pinch clamps permanently affixed, combined with stainless steel gear clamps.

Air Control Valve; I used a brass plumbing valve to control the air flow between the large diffuser and return flow nozzle. I tried cheaper plastic valves but they didn’t cut it.

Piping; I decided on PVC pipe because it is inexpensive, easy to clean, can be fitted together without glue in low pressure applications like this or can be glued when necessary (as are a few of the pieces). I am using 1 ¼ inch diameter pipe because it is the right size to accommodate the flow needed for the 50 gallon brewer. One small disadvantage is that sometimes when disassembling one must use pliers or vice grips to pull apart a pipe and fitting. NOTE; The industry sizing of the pipe is 1 1/4 inch but the actual diameter is 1 1/2 inches.

Diffusers; As of January 2009, I am using only, machine slotted PVC diffusers which I designed and get cut at a machine shop. Many of you will know that I wanted to stop using the glass bonded stone type diffusers because the muriatic acid used to clean them is not environmentally friendly. Via research over the winter I succeeded, by altering the depth of the slots and lengthening the large diffuser, in improving the PVC diffusers so as to match the dissolved oxygen maintenance of the glass bonded diffusers. The slots are 254 microns in width. There are three of these diffusers included with the brewer.

Brass Fittings:  We use brass fittings throughout, where applicable for purposes of longevity and quality. Where the brass must be adhered to PVC we have used a high grade non toxic epoxy.

Barrel: As mentioned previously please check with me for barrel dimensions and potential sources. I use a translucent barrel, as I believe this encourages the growth of phototrophic microorganisms.

Extractor; The extractor bag we are using is 400 microns mesh size, 24 inches long and 7 inches in diameter. There is a stainless steel supportive ring sewn into the top and a rubberized poly cap, with an entry hole for the diffuser. The unit is hung over the PVC pipe with nylon line.  Replacement bags will be around twelve bucks. I tested many sizes of mesh prior to choosing 400 microns. I tried 200, 250, 300, 400, 800, 1000 microns mesh sizes.

Bungee Cord; A rubber bungee cord is included which holds the unit in place and prevents floating, as it is filled with air charged water. The hooks are the perfect size to secure the positioning of the control valve and large diffuser. This beats trying to use weights inside the tank.

Ongoing Improvements;
As occurred with the slotted diffusers, I will endeavor to apply improvements in structure or function which are discovered. I am planning on getting a custom seamless extractor bag in future.
 
How about cleaning?

The whole unit can be dismantled and cleaned in under twenty minutes. Add ten minutes if you use the bag and another ten for the barrel. The unit should be removed from the compost tea while still pumping air for best results. This prevents back-flow into the diffusers and into the air tubing. While pumping air, particles and bacteria will have a more difficult time entering the air system. The whole unit then pulls apart and can be cleaned quickly with fresh water, a scrub brush or pad and a bottle/pipe cleaner (available at Wal Mart, etc.) If you clean the unit right after use, generally you can use water alone but occasionally you may wish to use hydrogen peroxide or bleach. It is not advised to use bleach on the extractor bag but you may use it on the pipe and tubing. You should not need to clean the inside of the air tubing if you prevent back-flow. The extractor bag should be flushed under fresh water immediately following use and can be hand washed using a peroxide product like Oxy-clean.

What about brew times?

I am confident that the Microbulator 50 will match or surpass any other commercial brewer as far as production of numbers and diversity of microbes and DO2 maintenance, given equal parameters of water, temperature, compost,  foodstock and time. If you wish to brew for 24 hours, the Microbulator will perform appropriately to extract and multiply the expected microbial types and numbers for that brew time. I recommend a brew time of around 36 to 44 hours if you are striving for a functional consortia of nutrient cycling microbes, consisting of bacteria/archaea, fungal hyphae and flagellates and/or amoebae. It is very important to be aware that you need good quality compost/vermicompost and feedstock to get good quality compost tea. Temperature and water quality must also be considered. Really!; there can be so many variables and the best way to know at what hour your microbes are at the optimum level is by microscopic examination. 

Please see the video clips below for data from different brew times.

What are some other benefits of purchasing a Microbulator 50?

All Microbulator 50 owners will have access to recommendations for brewing compost tea for various purposes from me or one of my affiliate businesses KIS  http://www.simplici-tea.com  or Organic Approach Inc. http://www.organicapproach.com  Support will be provided by email and telephone. Owners will be privy to new information gained through my ongoing research concerning, technique, application, disease suppression, microbial activity and recipe development. I'm hoping that through the distribution of microscopes with interface to computer I can facilitate a research network of sorts with individuals from different areas, using different compost and having various growing circumstances. The idea is to gather and share direct view microbial data by way of micro-photographs and video.

Do you have different sized brewers or design custom brewers?

I am working on a smaller sized brewer design applicable to the homeowner. It will likely be around 10 gallons in size. My design principle can be applied to pretty much any size of brewer. I use the same operational principle for our 1200 US gallon brewer which we use on our farm. The right sized air pump, diffusers, pipe, etc. must be calculated in accordance to the CFM per volume/depth of water.

I am open to customizing designs for large on farm applications. Just drop me an email if this interests you. I have done a couple of these now and because of the time involved I must charge a minimum $500.00 USD for this service and a negotiated fee over a certain number of hours expended.

Purchase & Shipping

I presently am limited to receiving payment by Paypal (Credit Cards), cleared check or bank transfer. Paypal allows payment by credit card or through your bank.
This service is free.  I can email you a PayPal invoice which makes the whole process easy. To register with Paypal in your country just Google 'PayPal'
If you wish to arrange  a purchase please email me at thegoodjob@hotmail.com         $489.00  USD
Note: My Paypal account is not associated with this email address.


All units regardless of where purchased are shipped by insured mail from Canada. 

The Microbulator 50 is now also available for purchase through Keep It Simple Brewers at  http://www.simplici-tea.com            


Where is your data?

I’m a great believer in pictures as documentation and exhibition so I have posted some video clips here which show the Microbulator 50 in operation and some microscopic videos recording the microbes extracted and grown at several different brew times. The videos are viewed using Windows Media Player which comes with most PC operating systems. You need to download them to watch and it may take some time based on your computer and Internet connection. In many cases I have offered a choice of high or low resolution clips. Obviously if you have a very slow connection choose the smaller file.

Video Clips
In Operation;
The Microbulator 50 demo video; 10 MB  or a smaller version at 7 MB 

Microbes;

Video Data for The Microbulator 50; April, 2008

Without The Extractor - Free Suspension Configuration;
The following video clips were shot to record microbial extraction and multiplication at varying time periods of a brew while using the Microbulator 50 in the free suspension configuration, that is with 4.5 liters of vermicompost and solid feedstock added directly to the water without the use of the extractor. Our own vermicompost was used which was fed a base of very old cow manure/wood shavings compost, sphagnum peat moss and kitchen scraps. Both brews were started at a temperature of around 18 C (65F). In the first brew the vermicompost was not mixed with anything to activate it. For the second brew the vermicompost was mixed with oat flour 20:1 and covered for around 120 hours prior to using it. Both brews maintained great DO2 levels to 60 hours; Brew #1 – 9.0 PPM DO2; Brew #2 – 8.9 PPM DO2. 
I do not recommend brewing for 60 hours and longer unless you have the instruments to check your brew or unless circumstances dictate the necessity. I have however included video footage recorded at this time period.

I am very pleased with the results demonstrated by the brewer as well as our by vermicompost. The following video clips are narrated and fairly self explanatory.

Microbial Identification:

In one instance I refer to an amoeba as naked, although I’m not entirely sure whether it has a shell (test) or not. I am researching to identify it. You will see some flagellates which are joined together like a bunch of balloons. These may be Choanoflagellida Salpingoecidae (diploeca) or Kinetoplastida Bodonidae Cephalothamnium cyclopum or of a related group within the major Mastigophora group.

NOTE RE VIDEOS; If you are unable to view the videos and have a Windows operating system, you may need to initiate, dowload or update Windows Media Player.

Please click the links below to download video clips. In most cases there is a choice of a large higher resolution file followed by a smaller lower resolution file.

Brew #1 Vermicompost Free Suspension; Not mixed with Oat Flour; 
10 hours 6.5 MB
     or      2.8 MB                                      
18 hours clip 1; 10 MB  or  4.4 MB     
18 hours clip 2; 7.3 MB  or   3.2 MB       
18 hours clip 3; 5 MB                       

36 hours 9.5 MB  or  4.2 MB                                                                                                                        

42 hours 7 MB  or    3.1 MB                           

60 hours 12 MB  (large)  or   5.2 MB                                 

Brew #2 Vermicompost Free Suspension; Mixed with Oat Flour
10 hours 5 MB                                                                                        

18&36 hours 6 MB

42 hours clip 1;  7.5 MB
          or            3.3 MB                                      
42 hours clip 2; 5.9 MB   

60 hours  6.2 MB                       

With The Extractor;
The video clips below illustrate the microbial densities at various time periods in a compost tea using the Microbulator 50 configured with the mesh extractor bag in place. In this configuration the large PVC diffuser was placed inside the mesh extractor while the return nozzle still splashed oxygenated water/tea onto/into the surface. Both brews included the use of our vermicompost which had been mixed 20:1 with oat flour and covered for about 120 hours prior to use. The video clips are narrated as before.

Brew #1 was made using our vermicompost with fish hydrolysate and kelp added.
DO2 at 60 hours - 8.9 PPM

10 hours  4 MB
18 hours  5 MB
36 hours  8 MB  or  4 MB
42&60 hours  5 MB

Brew #2 was made using our vermicompost with fish hydrolysate, kelp meal and black strap molasses. Adding the molasses was kind of an impulsive afterthought and for a regular brew I probably would not repeat this when also using fish when the compost has been treated with (fed) oat flour. There was an over abundance of feedstock resulting in a very high bacteria/archaea population. The result was a brew which took 60 hours to consume the feedstock and complete. It was interesting though and definitely microbially rich. DO2 at 60 hours – 7.3 PPM

10 hours  10 MB  or  5 MB
18&36&42 hours  9 MB  or  4 MB
60 hours  7 MB  or  4 MB  

Other Batches with different Compost; 2007

Compost tea batch #1 at 22 to 24 hour brew time; 11 MB (high res); 5 MB (low res)
                                      at 44 hours; 4 MB
Compost tea batch #2 at 46 hours; clip 1; 8 MB (high res); 4 MB (low res)
                                                           Clip 2; 5 MB (med res)
                                                           Clip 3; 8 MB (high res); 4 MB (low res)
                                                           Clip 4; 10 MB (high res); 5 MB (low res)     

Microscopes For Sale       $300 & $600 USD

SEE UPDATE BELOW!
I have been working with several microscope bodies which I imported from China and  have settled on two models which I will be selling through this webpage. I worked almost everyday for 2 months to create custom filters to enhance the images viewed through the microscopes and am now satisfied with the results. Each microscope will come with these custom designed filters as well as a custom made 20X objective which the manufacturer made for me. The enhancement produces images which are similar to those seen using phase contrast and differential interference contrast (3D). The effects are particularly effective with the large scope using the 20X objective as you can see in the video footage posted below.

The brightfield images are very good, equivalent to or better than higher priced microscopes like the Leica CME. The brightfield (true) resolution is actually somewhat better than when using the enhancement devices. The enhancement effects refraction and diffraction of light with the use of different colors as well as black to block certain portions of light. This provides a contrast making the subjects stand out more to the human eye. The method I have used is, I believe different than that previously employed by other microscopists so I’ll regard it as proprietary, at least for now.

Each microscope will also come with a DVD produced by myself teaching the use of the microscope, general microscopy and some compost and compost tea observational techniques. There will be extras available for additional charges, such as a 3X multiplier lens, 100X (oil) objective and plan achromatic objectives. I am also working on a camera.

My goal, like my other endeavors has been to provide a functional yet inexpensive quality microscope to support microbial based horticulture which I believe is of great benefit to the farmer, landscaper and home gardener. I maintain it to be just as much a tool as a shovel, hoe or lawn mower.

UPDATE:
As of October 7th, 2009 I have some of the full size trinocular microscopes and smaller monocular microscopes in stock and available for purchase. All microscopes are personally inspected prior to shipping. The manufacturer is offering a one year warranty but I will extend it to two years on the full size scope only.

Purchase and Ordering Info:
To order a microscope please email me at thegoodjob@hotmail.com
Payment can be by Paypal or guaranteed check/money order. Credit Cards are accepted through PayPal. 
To register with Paypal in your country just Google 'PayPal'
I can email you a PayPal invoice which makes the whole process easy. All microscopes regardless of where purchased are shipped by insured mail from Canada.

(Proceeds presently go to our registered charity to support our work.)

Camera;
As far as the camera goes, the one I tested was not good. I'm hoping to find a good quality  camcorder with an optical zoom lens and build my own adapter and/or carry Martin adapters. This is going to take some time and money to work out. For those of you wishing to go ahead and get a cheap camera anyway, check out Ebay. Just be sure there is a money back guarantee in a reasonable time period to see if it is satisfactory.

Regarding extras;
(All prices in US currency)

 The 3X multiplier Barlow lens I’m carrying is a great investment and is priced at $25 ( was $28; like Walmart we are rolling back the prices) I've discovered that two of these work great in the eyepieces of the trinocular microscope so I'm offering two for $46 with the purchase of a microscope. These are enroute right now (Oct  7th/09) and are available with your orders. Please note that although the 3X multipliers are cool, they are not necessary. Basically if using the 10X objective, they increase the magnification from 100X to 300X and the 20X objective from 200X to 600X. They are not effective with the 40X objective.

I'm including my Microbe Identification DVD set for $33 (regular $40) with the purchase of a microscope. The other instruction DVD is free with purchase.

Other Interests;
1/ If you are looking for a carrying case, MicroscopeNet on Ebay seems to have some aluminum foam filled cases which may work; just check the measurements carefully. You can also make your own carrying case by custom cutting foam to fit the scope into a plastic tool box something like this>  http://www.greatscopes.com/act018.htm                                        
2/ Cameras; I’m getting a lot of inquiries on this subject. As I’ve said before, the best thing you can get if you have the money is a HD camcorder with a firewire, HDMI or USB interface with a computer. I spent a fortune on my setup. I am trying to find a cheaper alternative. Sorry, not much help yet.

Descriptions:

Small Scope: (available)   $300 USD
This is a good quality scope and produces images completely adequate to assessing soil and compost (tea) microbes. It is not a full size scope.
This microscope is entirely adequate for assessing soil, compost and compost tea microorganisms but because it is monocular, it is not enjoyable to peer down for extended periods. If you are into studying microbes for hours on end, I recommend the full size microscope. If you just want to see when your compost tea is ready, this little scope will fill the order.

Dual view; monocular and camera port
Eyepieces: 20 mm widefield 10X & 16X
Achromatic Objectives: 10X, 20X, 40X
Mechanical Stage
Coaxial Course & Fine Focus
Metal Gears
Abbe Condenser 1.25 N.A. with swing-out filter holder; rack & pinion adjustment
Lamp; 20 watt incandescent; adjustable intensity

Price; $300 USD Options:3X multiplier Barlow lens $25;  Microbe Identification DVD Set $33 (regular $40)

Full Size Scope: (available)   $600 USD 
This is a nice heavy microscope with a wide base for stability. The optics are very nice for such an inexpensive scope (superior to the small scope) and the brass gears are a nice bonus. With proper care it should perform for years.

Trinocular; binocular with camera port; nice inter-pupil adjustment; extra adapters for camera port (these do not have lenses for using camera; just size adapters)
Eyepieces: 20 mm extra widefield 10X & widefield 16X
Achromatic Objectives: 4X, 10X, 20X, 40X
Mechanical Stage (much larger than small scope)
Coaxial Course & Fine Focus; 0.02 mm increments
Brass Gears
Abbe Condenser 1.25 N.A. with swing-out filter holder; rack & pinion adjustment
Lamp; 20 watt halogen; adjustable intensity

Price; $600 USD Options:3X multiplier Barlow lens $25 or two for $46;  Microbe Identification DVD Set $33 (regular $40)

Purchase and Ordering Info:
To order a microscope please email me at thegoodjob@hotmail.com
Payment can be by Paypal or guaranteed check/money order. Credit Cards are accepted through PayPal. 
To register with Paypal in your country just Google 'PayPal'
I can email you a PayPal invoice which makes the whole process easy.
All microscopes regardless of where purchased are shipped by insured mail from Canada.

Anyway, here is the full size scope;
                                                 

      largescope1              largescopefront                                                                                                                                         

                                                                                
Brightfield Images
Here is brightfield video footage shot through the microscope. Be aware that looking down the eyepiece and microscope tube is always higher quality than with a camera; also the camera magnifies the image and reduces the field of view by about 1/3rd.

4X objective 3MB        10X objective(a) 4MB       10X objective(b) 3MB      20X objective 4MB      40X objective(a) 3MB    40X objective(b)  4MB

Enhanced Images; 
Here is some enhanced image video footage shot through the microscope using my proprietary method and some others. The 20X objective images are most impressive and the number one feature of the scope. 

20X  objective  a/ 4MB    b/ 3MB    c/ 4MB    d/ 4MB    e/ 3MB   :     10X objective    a/  4MB    b/  2MB

Photos through full size scope;
  
                                                                                             
        

 
                                                                                                               
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               


Here is the small scope and the two side by side;

   smallscope            twoscopes                                                                                                                                     
Brightfield Images;  (Small Scope)
Here is brightfield video footage shot through the microscope. Be aware that looking down the eyepiece and microscope tube is always higher quality than with a camera; also the camera magnifies the image and reduces the field of view by about 1/3rd.

10X objective  4MB            20X objective  a/  3MB   b/  3MB           40X objective   4MB                                       

Enhanced Images; (Small Scope) Please note that because I had Sphagnum Peat leaves with sharp features available when working with the small scope, it may appear that I had greater resolution with the small scope. This is not the case. I will ad more images shot through the large scope shortly.
Here is some enhanced image video footage shot through the microscope using my proprietary method and some others.

10X objective  a/  2MB   b/  2MB         20X objective  3MB         40X objective  a/  4MB   b/  3MB

Photos through small scope;
Four variances; Brightfield, Shift Phase, Rheinberg, Darkfield (10X objective)
 
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           
                                                                                                                                                               
 Brightfield & Enhanced                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      
    
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Purchase and Ordering Info:
To order a microscope please email me at thegoodjob@hotmail.com
Payment can be by Paypal or guaranteed check/money order. Credit Cards are accepted through PayPal. 
To register with Paypal in your country just Google 'PayPal'
I can email you a PayPal invoice which makes the whole process easy.
All microscopes regardless of where purchased are shipped by insured mail from Canada.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            


Tests, Observations & Postulations

Subcontents:

A look; Sphagnum Peat & Alaska Magic
Do Microbes Survive Impeller Pumps?
Yelm Brewer Trials and Lab Tests
Terracycle Plant Food Examination

 
Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss & Alaska Magic (Humus);

Here is a look at a sample of Canadian Sphagnum peat moss Premier brand and a sample of Alaska Magic which is purported to be humus from Alaska. Both were purchased in Washington State and I examined them in a temporary lab situation using my portable microscope and laptop computer. In the first set of video clips we see the samples hydrated with distilled water and spread out on a microscope slide to have a look at the leaf and cell structure. In the narration for the Sphagnum peat moss I mistakenly describe it as 20X magnification (I meant the 20X objective) when it is actually 250X plus the camera lens effect. You can see that the two plant substances appear virtually identical which leads me to hypothesize that, although they may come from different geographical locations, they are both primarily composed of the same matter. I can provide lengthier and more inclusive video clips to interested parties. I do apologize for the variance in volume on the video clips. Please note that they may take some time to download to your computer and they play in Windows Media Player.

Click here (9.46 MB) to view the Canadian Sphagnum peat moss sample or here (4.15 MB) for a smaller version.
Click here (7.52 MB) to view the Alaska Magic sample.

In the second set of video clips we see footage of samples of Sphagnum peat moss and Alaska Magic mixed with distilled water and a couple of drops of black strap molasses to ‘wake up’ the organisms and left to sit. The Sphagnum footage was captured at 42 hours and the Alaska Magic at 24 and 60 hours. I apologize that I was not available for the other time periods for the Sphagnum. Now that I know that Premier brand Canadian Sphagnum peat moss is no different in the USA than in Canada I can run more extensive tests in my home laboratory. I brought a bag of Alaska Magic home with me. In the video clips we can see that both substances are emergent with a goodly amount of microbial life, as is to be expected with Sphagnum peat moss in my experience. There are people, purported to be experts in horticulture who report Sphagnum peat moss to be void of microbes. I believe the Dirt Doctor used the phrase ‘dead as cutters nuts’ whatever that means. I believe the evidence I have produced here speaks for itself and I believe growers could consider Canadian Sphagnum peat moss (Premier brand anyway) as a less expensive alternative to boost microbial life in certain circumstances, such as aerated Compost Tea. I have confirmation from an expert that the plant matter I have identified in Alaska Magic is in fact Sphagnum peat moss. My observations indicate that this is a what Alaska Magic primarily consists of.

Click here (8 MB) to view part A and here (8 MB) for part B of  the 42 hour ‘fed’ Sphagnum peat moss sample or click here (6.55 MB) for a smaller slightly different version
Click here (2.56 MB) to view the 24 hour ‘fed’ Alaska Magic sample
Click here (4.40 MB) to view the 60 hour ‘fed’ Alaska Magic sample

If you have suggestions for further tests which I might run please email me.

Does Microbial Life Survive Pump Impellers?

2007 Test With 1200 gallon (US) Brewer;
We made an attempt to run a test to record the effects on microbial life when distributing Compost Tea (CT) through an impeller pump, irrigation lines, shrub head sprinklers and a cheap hand operated sprayer. One objective was to grow fungal hyphae in the CT to see how it tolerated the impeller pump and sprinklers but we failed to do so. We did see the growth of bacterial structures which are about the same volume as fungal hyphae (roughly speaking) so we decided to proceed using the bacterial structures to get some estimate of how fungal hyphae might survive the ride. See below for a similar test with fungal hyphae.

The pump we used is an impeller irrigation pump; 2 horse power; 20 PSI; 65 gallons per minute.
Our water line is 1.25 inches reducing to 3/4 inch. The strainer baskets
on our overhead shrub head sprinklers are about 500 to 600 microns
(just guessing; may be larger). These sprinklers create a fine mist
and are great for coating leaves.

Besides the preliminary 27hr sample I looked at and recorded 4 sample types;

The video clips presented are comprised of the best of quite a number of clips recorded.
 
1/ Sample from 1200 US gallon brewer; low active bacteria; very high
immobile bacterial 'biomass' (very large bacterial complexes); high
numbers & diversity flagellates click here to view video (9 MB)

2/ Sample through pump and water line: could see the effects of the
impeller pump as some of the bacterial structures were broken or
malformed but many remained intact. Flagellates were about the same;
Click here to view video(5 MB)

3/ Sample through pump, water line and shrub head sprinklers: about the
same effects as through the water line except the flagellate
activity seemed down a little. Click here to view video (4 MB)

4/ Sample taken right from brewer and sprayed through one of those hand
operated spray bottles set on mist; this, surprisingly had the most
devastating effects. The bacterial structures were mostly torn up
and many flagellates were killed. Click here to view video (6 MB)

I'm going to need to do a repeat trial but my thought is that if you have
hyphae that break up in the application process, unless they are
mashed, they will likely continue to grow in the soil if the
conditions support them. The same can probably be said for spores which are put off by hyphae grown.

Repeat Trial: 2008

Using the Microbulator 50 rather than the 1200 gallon brewer as previously attempted, I brewed an ACT heavily populated with fungal hyphae, utilizing our fungal inhabited vermicompost fed with oat flour.

I have succeeded with a 10 hour brew which was very heavily populated with fungal hyphae. I have demonstrated/observed that fungal hyphae complexes survive intact after passing through 1/ a mesh strainer of approximately 800 to 1000 microns, 2/ a low pressure impeller pump, 3/ a sprinkler strainer basket and 4/ a shrub head sprinkler (all one pass).

The fungal hyphae complexes averaged 3 microns in diameter ranging to 6+ microns and some which survived the pump and sprinkler spanned several 250X fields of view. I used a cheap ancient sump pump to run the test.

I think you can rest assured that a low pressure impeller pump will not significantly damage biology in compost tea.

I have recorded my data to video via microscope/computer interface and the video is available here for download (plays with Windows Media Player) > 6 MB


Rambling Dissertation on Yelm Field Trials for Brewer Prototype

Only read this if you are ready for a lengthy rambling dissertation. I begin with my excursion to the Yelm Earthworm farm for a field trial of my brewer design but diverge into laboratory techniques and their foundations.

I traveled to Yelm, Washington in July, 2007 to visit the Yelm Earthworm and Castings Farm and do a field trial of my brewer design at a location close enough to get a fresh sample to the SFI labs at Corvallis, Oregon.

At Yelm;            
The first thing I did before setting up the brewers was to check the DO2, temperature and the TDS/EC (totally dissolved salts {solids}/electrical conductivity) of their well water. The DO2 (dissolved oxygen) was 6.8 ppm, somewhat lower than ours at around 9 ppm. Challenge number one. Challenge number two came in a TDS reading of 93 ppm. You may recall my report that our water usually reads around 21 ppm. This does not mean there is something wrong with their water. It probably is high in mineral content but it does mean the capacity to sustain DO2 is diminished somewhat. The temperature of their water comes out of the ground at 65* F (Note; * = degrees). I was mulling over in my mind how to alter the compost and foodstock ratios to accommodate these readings when the largest challenge yet, presented itself in the form of the barrels which they had for me to use. They were very tall and almost football shaped with the points cut off. I had no idea that plastic 55 gallon barrels came in different shapes. Because my device has a base shape which must sit on the bottom of the barrel and has an air tube plugged into it at the bottom, the pressure applied to the stiff tubing and the restricted surface area made for a poorly balanced situation. At home we use a weight, which is a ‘U’ shaped PVC structure filled with gravel to hold down the device; once there is air flowing through it, it wants to float. Well, I don’t know if water has variant buoyancy properties at different elevations but the water at Yelm seemed to buoy the device despite the weight. We had to put rocks in ziplock bags which we balanced on the return pipe of the device to hold it down. I already knew at this point that I was going to have to market the device with a tank or give strict measurements and instructions to those wishing to get and adapt their own tanks. I also realized the weight idea is a no go and would need to secure the device with a strap across the tank. I thought about scrapping the trial at that point but talked myself into persisting since I had traveled so far and the SFI lab was only 4 hours south.

I was wishing I had stuffed one more thing in the little Montana van, my white barrel. I’m sure I already had looked suspicious enough at the border crossing stocked with microscope, two weird looking cameras, empty pill bottles for test tubes, rubber gloves, vials filled with dark liquid, strangely configured PVC pipe, tubing connected to brass valves, ziplocks of compost in coolers and a beard and messy hair to boot. A 55 gallon barrel may have pushed it over the edge. Thank goodness for my USA passport. Without it I would never have made it.

Well we set up two barrels in preparation for brewing. Brew ‘A’ would use the Yelm Earthworm farm vermicompost/thermophilic compost blend and Brew ‘B’ would use my horsemanure/shavings vermicompost. Our compost normally presents a good quantity and quality of fungal hyphae in a Compost Tea (CT) and a high number of bacteria with flagellates at varying blooms throughout the brew. After getting things pretty much balanced and running the brewers for a few hours without ingredients, the DO2 was up to 9.5 ppm. Because of the high TDS readings I decided to reduce the compost used from 4% to 3% or 4.5 liters (18 cups) and the black strap molasses to 0.65%, the kelp meal I left at 0.25% but reduced the fish hydrolisate to 0.05% (which had got quite smelly at this point). I added the ingredients and we were off and running. It was around this time that we heard through the news that a heat wave was on its way. You know; the one which broke all the records in the North West. I thought to myself; ‘Of course, Murphy’s Law’.

At the Yelm Earthworm farm they are open from 8:30 AM to 5 PM and keep the big front gate locked when closed so there was no way to check on the progress of the brews in the ‘off’ hours. When I drove in the following morning and checked the brews ‘B’ device had tipped over and was not operating in correct fashion. I straightened it up and checked the DO2 at 3.9 ppm. Damn! Of course it had to be the brew with my compost. The ‘A’ brew was okay at 7.7 ppm. This was at the 21 hour mark, three hours away from drawing my first sample. The ‘A’ sample at 24 hours was still maintaining at 7.7 ppm DO2 and 72* F when I drew it. Through the microscope tube it exhibited a good amount of active bacteria at about 5% with about 7 to 8% total bacteria. I was disappointed that there was still some fish smell present. (maybe my fish was too old) Generally the CT was as I expected at this stage prior to the protozoa explosion. To see a short video of A24 click here (5 MB). The ‘B’ sample had crept back up to 5.2 ppm DO2. The temperature for both brews was 72*F. Through the microscope tube B24 presented with a good quantity of active bacteria at about 3 to 4% and very thick total bacteria at about 20 to 30%. There is some fungal hyphae present albeit of a smaller diameter than we normally see from this compost and quite coated with bacteria. I attributed this to the mishap with the device tipping but the other variables could also be at play. I only saw 1 lonely flagellate representing the protozoa population. To see B24 click here (14 MB) or here (6 MB). As usual these clips are viewed in Windows Media and may take a while to download.
Note; In the narration for b24 I use the word ‘mature’ for fungal hyphae when I mean more developed.

By this time the heat wave had hit full blast and the little room where I had set up my temporary lab became a torturous sweat box in the afternoon. This is where I was set up to examine the Alaska Magic, Sphagnum peat moss and various other substances people were bringing me to look at. I became very appreciative of the drive back to the motel at 5 PM with the windows wide open until the A/C kicked in.

The next morning the hour had arrived, or rather the 44th hour when I had decided to draw the final samples and head to the SFI lab at Corvallis. I drew the samples and had a microscopic look at them, recording the data to the computer under the witnessing eye of Kelan, one of the farm owners. My goal, primarily was to create a CT optimum for nutrient cycling in the soil. Brew ‘A44’ appeared excellent for this purpose. The DO2 was at 7.0 ppm despite the temperature being slightly over 74*F. Looking through the microscope I conservatively counted 90 flagellates per 250X field of view and as is to be expected, the number of active bacteria was radically reduced to less than 1% by the protozoa but the total bacterial level was still good at about 5%. I did not however see any amoebae. When you view the short video clip of A44 by clicking here (7 MB) bear in mind that the camera only shows about 1/3rd  of a field of view. The ‘B44’ sample was the same temperature 74*F+ but the DO2 had never recovered and remained under 5.0 ppm. Through the microscope tube B44 exhibited a tiny bit of fungal hyphae but this was a really brief exam so there could easily have been more, there was less than 1% active bacteria but very high inactive bacterial biomass for a total of around 12 to 15%; there were about 2 flagellates per 250X field; quite low. Click here to view B44 (10 MB).

I re-examined the 24 hour samples as well to decide what all I would include to get tested at SFI. The A24 sample appeared to have degraded and there was not much bacterial activity so I decided to save some money and exclude it. In reality the only really good sample for my purposes was A44 but I wanted to see what the SFI report would say concerning the fungal hyphae in B24 and B44 so I loaded the 3 samples into a small cooler and hit the road.

As, I have relayed previously I had a telephone conversation with Elaine Ingham about 10 days prior where I understood that I would be able to have a quick look at one sample using one of their scopes just to see how the flagellates had survived the 4 hour transport. In the same conversation I had understood her to say that the plate culture method was not used for counting protozoa in Compost Tea samples, contrary to what the lab manager had told me. Rather, they use the direct count or direct determination to ascertain quantities of all organisms in Compost Tea samples. When I arrived at the lab I kinda expected to go in with the samples and watch the technician put the sample on the slide, have a peek, explain to her my reason for submitting the ‘B’ samples and head back to Yelm. I had witnessed this done for someone else several years ago when I spent a day in the SFI lab. I was told to wait for the technician. After about a half hour+ I was beckoned into the lab by the tech and there was a slide prepared and on a microscope set up for incident light fluorescence, what one uses for observing stained or autofluorescing organisms. At first I glanced down the eyepiece but then asked if there was not a scope I could use with transmitted light to observe the survival and activity of the protozoa. The tech replied “What!?”. (I’m not sure which part she did not understand or if she was just startled.) She then said the protozoa would not be observable for 5 days as they were being plated out. I replied ‘That’s silly, I observed around 100 active flagellates per 250X field a few hours ago. They don't need plating.’  I wish I had not blurted out ‘silly’ but the heat of the moment and mounting disappointment was overwhelming me. The technician suggested I speak to the lab manager. I did spend a few fruitless moments engaged in conversation with the manager trying to ratify what Elaine had told me. He determined that I had misunderstood Elaine, which I guess is correct and that all Compost Tea samples are plate cultured to count protozoa. I blurted out, again, that such a count is not valid. He rightfully corrected me that, in my opinion it is not valid and I corrected my statement to reflect this meaning.

I left the lab feeling rather frustrated and confused but, despite having spent almost $400 on testing methods different than anticipated I held out hope that in the big picture the learning experience would be worth the price paid. The rush hour traffic through Portland was ugly.

The next morning at the Yelm Earthworm farm I relayed my experience and predicted that the utilization of the plate culture method would show the CT which is high in protozoa content as being lower because the CT had already produced protozoa to the optimum and many of the resting cysts had already excysted (hatched). The CT sample which is low in protozoa content would likely show a higher count after being plate cultured because there is more potential for protozoa multiplication as they have yet to populate to an optimum level and there may be resting cysts yet to excyst.

Upon returning home I contacted some people knowledgeable in microbiology and several laboratories to try to get their take on this method for counting protozoa. I could find none that thought the plate culture method made any sense for counting protozoa and one lab concurred with my prediction theory. There were also suggestions that the plate culture medium may not grow the same set of protozoa present in the CT as is. The consensus was that if they were asked to do a count of protozoa in such a medium (CT) they would immediately prepare several slides, do a live count and calculate an average. Most suggested they would use a hemacytometer or other counting chamber (slides with pockets and etchings of precise dimensions for counting microorganisms).

I thought something is not right here. Maybe I’m missing something. I had always agreed with Elaine Ingham’s assertion that the way to get a more accurate estimation of live microbes was through direct determination and that plate culturing was unreliable because it misses most of the organisms and because it projects the growth rather than showing what is present now. I have admired her stance on this amidst criticism but now, apparently her lab is using this very method for protozoa counts, while other labs are advocating direct determination. Does it make sense to use direct determination for one set of microorganisms while plating out another?

The following excerpts are from Elaine Ingham or are associated with her; I wish to make it clear that I intend no enmity towards Elaine. I hold her in high regard. Her knowledge level eclipses mine. Her contribution to the advancement and widespread practice of microbial based horticultural practices is without measure. I seek only clarity and verity.

1/ SFI Website
http://www.soilfoodweb.com/03_about_us/approach_pgs/c_01_understand_why.html
Species diversity
Species diversity is the same in compost and the tea made from that compost. Species diversity in compost is higher than fumigated or sick soil. But at least one plate count microbiology lab is giving out data suggesting that compost has lower diversity than bad soil and that “ok” tea has less diversity than bad compost. It is clear that plate count “diversity” methods are not effective in assessing species diversity, or species richness, in soil, compost or compost tea. Molecular methods tell us that species diversity in soil, tea, and compost, can number in the thousands and tens of thousands per gram.
Use of methods that tell you that soil contains only a few 5 to 10 species, or that compost contains only 8 to 15 species need to be viewed with a great deal of incredulity. Plate methods are missing only about 99.9% of what is actually present!
Do plate counts or direct counts assess tea quality? The clear answer is that direct counts assess tea quality, while plate counts do not. Take a look at the results (below) from a test where two different teas were used to control blight on tomato plants.

2/ Soil Foodweb Institute Australia
http://www.soilfoodweb.com.au/index.php?pageid=340
Plate methods could not differentiate between the two teas.
TSA incubated at room temperature, in aerobic conditions, measures “aerobic heterotrophs”. There was no detectable difference between the two teas using plate methods, despite the fact that Tea Two was capable of suppressing blight, while Tea One, sprayed at the same concentration, in the same conditions, did not suppress disease.
King’s B medium selects for pseudomonads, but not all these bacterial species are beneficial to plants. Enumeration indicated that there were more pseudomonads in the not-suppressive tea. Plate methods cannot distinguish whether the bacteria growing on this plate, and thus presumably pseudomonads, will be beneficial to the plant. If these values were used to measure “species richness-diversity”, the not-suppressive tea would get a higher “index” score than the tea that resulted in the plants remaining alive and producing a bumper crop of tomato later in the year.
Please note that “species richness-diversity” is not a valid name for any ecologically accepted measure of diversity. The lab that developed and uses this index will NOT explain how this index is calculated, and will not show any data that documents what relationship the index has with plant health. They claim the index is in any introductory textbook, but in fact, no textbook anywhere has a measure called species richness-diversity. Until such time as the lab using this index documents the claim that a higher index value actually means a benefit to the plant, the use of this index must remain highly questionable.
Spore-formers are determined by boiling the material in question to kill vegetative cells, followed by plating the material on TSA. Only spores or highly dormant stages of organisms survive boiling. Those spores capable of growing on TSA, at room temperature, in the particular oxygen conditions present in the plate (please recognize that oxygen exchange is reduced by the fact that the plates are covered), are then enumerated. Again, the not-suppressive tea had higher plate enumeration values. What is the relationship between what will grow on a plate, and physiological functions occurring in the soil, or on plant surfaces? These data show that there is no relationship.
Direct determinations separate bacteria from fungi. Plate media do not separate even bacteria from fungi, much less not giving an indication of what is going on with approximately 99.9% of the species present in the material plated.
Direct determinations also let you know whether protozoa or nematodes are present and performing their functions. A much clearer picture of what biology is present and performing their functions is possible when using direct determinations. Direct methods let you know if coverage on leaf surfaces is adequate. These types of assessments need to have a clear relation back to benefit to the plant.
Please note that there is no consistent relationship between plate count enumerations of “species richness-diversity” and improvement in plant growth. Plate counts do not assess diversity or activity of the organisms in the test material. An insignificant number of the actual total individuals or total species present in a sample grow on any single plate medium or set of lab conditions that it is difficult to see why anyone would continue to pretend that there is a relationship between plant growth and plate count assessments of diversity.

 
3/ Discussion Forum
http://lists.ifas.ufl.edu/cgi-bin/wa.exe?A2=ind0211&L=sanet-mg&P=7967
When you talk about functional groups in the soil, it is as if you think that organisms that grow on plate as active in the soil. They are not. Thus, as a method to assess function, plate counts are pitiful. As a method to determine whether a functional group exist in soil, again, plate counts are pitiful, because 99% of the individuals that might be able to perform a function do not grow on that plate.

If you want to know function, do any enzyme test. Then you know how much of that function is being performed right now. But enzyme analysis doesn't help you to know how much that function will be maintained. You can be predictive only if you know the number of active organisms performing that function now, and in ten minutes, and in an hour, etc. Plate counts don't allow you to do that. Most of the organisms that grow on any plate are dormant forms, spores, that were not active in the soil, or compost, or tea.

4/ Internet
http://www.energybulletin.net/23428.html
Monitoring the soil life
The first step in restoring the soil biology is being able to diagnose it. Since we can't look at the soil food web directly, we must rely on indirect methods. Some have suggested nematodes and springtails as indicators of soil health.
Ingham advocates a "direct count" method, in which individual organisms in a sample are counted under a microscope. Following a protocol, a trained technician counts the number of different classes of organisms (bacteria, fungi and protozoa, for example). The result is a report on the organisms estimated to be in the sample. The numbers indicate possible problems in the soil. For example, a high number of ciliates (a group of protozoa) suggests anaerobic conditions - harmful to plant life.
Other researchers have used plate counts. A soil sample is placed in a growth medium like agar, typically in a Petri dish. The number of bacterial or fungal colonies that grow from a soil sample are then counted.
Ingham maintains that this method grossly underestimates the number and variety of soil organisms. She says that the method was designed to detect and grow human disease organisms such as E. coli. In contrast, soil organisms need different conditions than the laboratory setting and growth media can provide. Only about .01 percent of soil organisms can be detected with traditional plate counts, she estimates.

5/ Discussion Forum
http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/compostteas/Week-of-Mon-20020506/000000.html
Testing tea is critical - and you have to know whether the competitive organisms in the tea are ACTIVE or not. You cannot measure active organisms using plate counts, you can only measure viable organisms. There's a huge difference.

6/ Internet
http://soilfoodweb.ca/SFC-Elaine&TedArticle.pdf
To get this information, you will need to send samples of soil, compost and compost
tea to a laboratory that can provide this information. Choosing the ‘right’ lab is
important as not all soil and microbiology labs use protocols that can provide the
information that growers need to make good decisions about soil biology
management. To date peer reviewed, direct look protocols and composite databases
are only available at the worldwide soil foodweb labs in the USA, Canada, Australia,New Zealand South Africa and soon England and Belgium. Plate culture laboratory protocols cannot provide this information and miss 95% of the biology in soil because most soil organisms cannot be grown in an artificial lab environment.


7/ In The Compost Tea Brewing Manual 4th Edition, Elaine advocates direct count methods for determination of the microbes present in compost teas.

                                      End of Excerpts:

SFI Test Results:

The SFI test results did come by email. You may view the tests here in PDF format   A44   B24   B44  

A44 – When we examine the results of bacterial count overall my estimations as to general quantity (quality) from above (active bac low <1% but total okay 5%) seem to roughly concur with the SFI results (active bac. low; total bac. good). SFI reports the bacterial content in mass per volume (ug/ml) so it is difficult to make a direct comparison. I will discuss this later.

When we come to the flagellate count the SFI number is 13,863 per g (or per ml because 1 ml. of water weighs 1 gram). This is where my numbers disagree sharply with the SFI report. Remember that I did a conservative count of 90 flagellates per field of view.

The formula for roughly converting numbers of microorganisms per field of view to microorganisms per ml or g is;
(~ = divided by;  field of view = FOV)
Number of microorganisms/ml = area of coverslip ~ area of FOV x number of organisms/FOV x number of pipette drops/ml
The 250X FOV of my portable microscope = .49 sq mm
The number of drops per ml. = 20
The area of the coverslips = 324 sq mm

Therefore; The number of flagellates/ml = 324 ~ .49 x 90 x 20 = 1,190,204.08/ml
Because 1 ml of water = 1 gram, this = 1,190,204 flagellates/g
This is over a million flagellates per gram. Even if my count is off by 10 percent or more this is still radically different from the SFI result. I attribute this to the plate culturing method they used.

Note that my prediction bore out; that the sample with the higher number of direct count flagellates is showing a lower number through the plate count method.  

There is a comment in the lower portion of the SFI test which states that the aerobic bacteria are dormant. I would like to know how aerobic bacteria are determined without using plating or other methods.

B24 – Here again the observations I recorded (of active bacteria at about 3 to 4% and very thick total bacteria at about 20 to 30% showing very good; mention of okay fungal hyphae) seem to generally jive with the quality description from SFI (active bac. good; total bac. excellent).  Again I cannot make a direct comparison because the bacteria are recorded in mass/volume.

On the surface it would appear that even our flagellate estimations concur were it not for the comments and the following report for B44. The comment at the bottom portion of the report states ‘Protozoa either not present in compost, or did not survive in the tea’

If we skip ahead to the SFI test result for B44, which is drawn from the identical Compost Tea brew (just 20 hours later) the number of flagellates reported is 277,259/g. In the lower portion of the report the flagellate count is described as excellent. Hold on; This is the CT where protozoa were either not present in the compost or did not survive the tea. What’s up with this? I attribute this to the potential inaccuracy of using the plate culture method to count protozoa.

Interestingly, even though the DO2 was miserably low when I drew the B24 sample there is no comment saying that the aerobic bacteria are dormant. The description makes this CT sample sound superior to A44 even though we have (to the best of our current knowledge) observed microbial activity and DO2 readings indicating the opposite. One good thing to know is that SFI measures the fungal hyphae at 4 micrometers and determines it to be beneficial. Now that’s the kind of meat and potatoes information I find useful. It backs up my estimates of 6 micrometer hyphae when everything is going right.

B44 – My numbers (less than 1% active bacteria but very high inactive bacterial biomass for a total of around 12 to 15%;) for bacteria observed seem to go along with the SFI qualitative description (active bac. low; total bac. good) except that I may have a higher total bacteria. This could be where their superior staining techniques may help define bacteria from other junk. Of course as previously outlined our flagellate counts are way different. My observation being about 2 flagellates per 250X field; quite low, translated; 324~.49x2x20= 26,530/ml = 26,530/g.  Yes that’s what I call low but much lower than the SFI; 277,259/g.

Note that my predicted theory bears out again; the sample which had the directly determined lower count of flagellates ended up showing the higher count when the plate culture method of counting was employed.

I need to question the reason for the plate culture method being used to assess protozoa numbers in CT. Generally, in my understanding, a plate culture method is useful for determining the potential for a substance to produce certain microorganisms. It is therefore useful for application to soil, compost, humus, peat samples, etc. For CT samples I’m an advocate for what you see is what you got NOT what you see is what you might get if you culture these microbes out over 5 days. I could also be missing the point completely and am therefore open to being educated.

Microbial Mass
I said that I would discuss the results for bacteria and fungal hyphae expressed in terms of mass per volume. This type of expression is used in various studies and analysis of microbes. It is deemed necessary for certain trials which have been carried out and there have been numerous approaches and formulae establishing conversion factors to interpret volume/volume of microbes as mass/volume or mass/mass.

I have searched for and read some of the research papers on which many of the accepted conversion factors are based for studies carried out by contemporary scientists. I have found the results to vary greatly and indeed even some of the authors of the papers warn that these are rough averages and one must have confidence in the methods used to formulate the presently used conversion factor for the specific group of microbes being utilized. We are talking about the weight of microorganisms here. You can’t use the bathroom scales so it is based primarily on the mass of carbon and there are many variables concerning environmental medium, growth rates, species, etc.

I have already been overly long-winded so I’ll not provide any excerpts but will be happy to email the journal articles to interested parties. I will, however list some of the conversion factors with the author(s’) name(s). I have converted them all into grams per cubic centimeter so there is some chance of misplaced decimal points. If you see any errors please let me know;
1979 – van Veen & Paul; bacteria - 0.8 g/cu cm; fungal hyphae – 0.33 g/ cu cm
1982 – Newell & Statzell-Tallman; fungal hyphae - 0.9 g dry/cu cm
1982 – Bakken & Olsen; bacteria – 1.09 g/cu cm and 30% dry matter (DM); fungal hyphae – 1.09 g/cu cm and 21% DM; I have trouble comprehending this one
1885 – Braktak;  fixated bacteria – 0.056 g/ cu cm; wild bacteria(?) - 0.22 g/cu cm
1987 – Borsheim & Braktak; bacteria – 0.22 g/cu cm 
1987 – Lee & Fuhrman; bacteria – 0.38 g/cu cm
There are other articles I could not access ($) and I’m sure there is more information available.
I asked the SFI lab in Oregon for their conversion factors and was told it is proprietary information, however Elaine told me in an email that as she recalls they are; prokaryotes (bacteria) - 0.31 g/cu cm; fungal hyphae - 0.44 g/cu cm

There is obviously value in expressing bacterial and fungal amounts like this, especially if one needs to perform calculations or express mass to mass ratios. For my information to use these results I’d like to know what the conversion factor is, what research the factor is derived from and what the high and low variances are. I have looked for this information on the SFI website and maybe it’s there but I have not seen it, nor have I found a basic description of their testing practices and techniques. At most labs they will give you this information with the exception of proprietary techniques for detection of species, etc.

The SFI test results can become confusing, otherwise. For example if we look at two of the SFI test results posted on the KIS website; One test is for their small brewer (I believe) and the Invoice # is 5795. The other test is for the vermicompost they use (Invoice 0). The tests use the same units of measure as ug/ml is the same as ug/g unless a sample has been dried (baked) first (their protocol does not state this that I know of) In the vermicompost the total bacteria is reported at 5969 ug/g while in the Compost Tea it is reported at 11648 ug/ml (ug/g). If they are using this or a similar vermicompost does this mean that the bacteria did not even double? Perhaps there is a totally different method for handling and testing the compost but without knowing this it is difficult to learn something from these results.

Using these two tests to review the validity of the plate culture method to count protozoa, in the vermicompost the flagellate count is 209,599 /g (/ml) and in the Compost Tea the flagellate count is 13,863 /ml (/g).  If they are using this or a similar vermicompost in the brewer does this mean that the numbers were reduced by the brewer? Likely this is a factor of the plate culture method. Something seems wrong with the overall picture. It could be there is something I just don’t get and I need educating.

Something I pointed out before is that the flagellate number and amoebae numbers on the KIS test are identical at 13,863/ml but something I just noticed is that the flagellate number on my A44 test is also 13,863/g (/ml). What are the chances?

1/ It would be nice if someone from SFI could lay out as much as possible what their testing protocol is. 2/ What is your biomass conversion factor and where is it derived from? 3/ Can someone explain the reason for the plate culturing of the protozoa?
4/ How do you determine that bacteria are aerobic as noted in the quantitative test results?

What did I learn? I learned that I had to return to the drawing table as far as a couple of features for the Microbulator design. I had reaffirmed the importance of what is in compost to begin with and the ability of water to retain O2. This supports the practice of blending several substances for a broader range of microbes, like done by KIS. I have come to the realization that the SFI quantitative testing is probably not going to work for my purposes of illustrating the efficacy of the brewer; unless I’m shown to be full of it and re-educated. If anything I might prefer their little qualitative test. In a discussion with the biologist at Woodsend lab she expressed what I have observed consistently. A set of microorganisms in a CT sample does not stay the same for long  making it difficult for shipping to the lab and getting reliable results. I guess I’ll stick to the video footage of microbes extracted to illustrate results for now.


Terracycle Examination:

Recently, I examined Terracycle’s product labeled, Plant Food. It comes in a recycled 591 ml pop bottle with a spray device screwed on top. It has an NPK analysis on the label of 0.03 – 0.002 – 0.02. The ingredients listed are; vermicompost extract, period. It is an OMRI listed product where it is classed as a manure tea. I believe the recommendations for its use are similar to the recommendations for compost tea in certified organic applications. According to OMRI, whom I contacted by phone, if there are other ingredients they must be listed. If there are any loopholes in labeling laws I am unaware of them. When I first heard of Terracycle’s ‘liquid worm poo’ product I assumed that they must be using phosphoric acid to stabilize or put to sleep the microbes. According to their ‘science guy’, Bill and their label, this is not the case. Bill says the stabilization and shelf life are attributed to the process utilized in production which he did not volunteer to reveal. He did say their product has been tested against pathogens such as e-coli.

I examined several samples of one bottle only so I would call this a preliminary observation and report. Upon first examination of the product fresh out of the bottle under the microscope, I observed very little microbial life. I saw two spore forming bacteria, apparently dormant. This was akin to looking at plain water. It was so vacant (boring) that I did not bother looking at another sample. Because I do so with all samples I observe, I filled a pill bottle with the liquid product, added a couple of drops of black strap molasses, shook it up for 90 seconds and left it sitting on the bench with the lid off. Obligingly at about 24 hours I sucked up a sample to observe. What a surprise! I saw a sample swimming with a wide variety of bacteria. There were also a few flagellates present and what appeared to be fungal hyphae. You can download a video clip here (14 MB) or smaller version here (6 MB).

At the 40 hour mark after the Terracycle being fed black strap molasses, I found myself further amazed to see even more diverse bacteria and a higher number and diversity of flagellates. There are large masses comprised of a type of actinomycetes or other hyphal forming bacteria (I believe) conjunctive with other stationary bacterial biomass, active bacteria, yeast formations, fungal hyphae and feeding flagellates. These appear as large islands and the video clip only shows the outer edge of one of these. The short clips I made for the website do not properly illustrate these masses so if someone is interested in seeing more I can send you some footage. The apparent fungal hyphae structures are much more developed and growing across many fields of view. They are approximately 3.5 to 4 microns in diameter and appear to have relatively regularly placed septa. I did not observe any branching and do not know what this may indicate. If someone knowledgeable in fungal hyphae has any input I’d appreciate it. The video clip for the 40 hour observation may be downloaded here (14 MB) or here (6 MB).

My response to this preliminary observation by way of recommendations is that if one uses it straight out of the bottle it will probably have little effect as a foliar feeder or leaf disease suppressant. Used straight out of the bottle on soil it may have very good benefits, via initiating or boosting the microbial nutrient cycle at the root/soil interface, once the dormant microbes are stimulated to growth and activity from propitious conditions and food sources. Used as an inoculant in a compost tea Terracycle may have profound beneficial effects to increase the microbial diversity and volume in compost tea inclusive of bacteria, flagellates and (apparently) fungal hyphae.

As I said, I am most surprised by these observations and expected absolutely the opposite. I would appreciate hearing from other microscopists out there who may look at this product in similar fashion. As time affords it, I will look at more samples (bottles) of this product to test for consistency to rule out this being an isolated case. I did run a control test on my molasses mixed with water in case anyone wonders.  

Resources & Links

Following are some links to useful resources and information. I will be adding to this periodically so keep checking in. Please let me know if you come across inactive links.

Worms;
Here is simple information I put together for keeping your own composting worms to supply your brewer with fresh vermicompost.> keepingworms.pdf
Venturi;
Here is a sketch venturisketch.pdf  and text venturitext.pdf  instructing the use of a water pump and venturi for building a compost tea brewer. It works.                                                             

Microscopes;                   
Here is a PDF copy of my Microscope advisory. It may help you with making a decision concerning a microscope purchase. Please note that in Spring of 2009 a gentleman named Theo from Holland pointed out my error in stating that Frits Zernike was German. I should have stated that he was Dutch, in business with Germans > microscopeadvisory.pdf
Thanks Theo!

Here are a couple of links to the same microscope dealer.
This one is for their Meiji Division;> http://www.milescoscientific.com
This is for other brands of microscopes and accessories; >  http://www.professionalmicroscopes.com
Tell Jason that Tim sent you and you may get a discount.

A word about fish fertilizers;

I have had many questions regarding fish hydrolysates vs. fish emulsions. Well, now I’ve done a little research and can give an answer. Fish emulsions are produced under high heat conditions, which as we know kills most nutrients. Fish emulsions also separate the oils and protein which are marketed separately for other uses (fish oils & fish meal). Fish emulsions are therefore not very valid as a microbial foodstock.

Fish hydrolysate, on the other hand, is produced with a low heat process known as enzymatic digestion. All the oils, nutrients and amino acids protein are left intact resulting in a substantial microbial foodstock which can be ‘mineralized’ (made bio-available) and passed on to your soil and plants.

For these reasons, when given a choice it is better to pick fish hydrolysate over emulsion.

Here is a link to Great Pacific Bioproducts who make very fine quality liquid fish fertilizer (hydrolysate). Their product is available in British Columbia, Canada but bulk purchases in the Western USA are possible. I have tested their product and it grows the most enormous fungal hyphae from our vermicompost that I have ever seen. > http://www.greatpacificbioproducts.com
Here is a link to video footage of the microbial life observed in one of the tests I ran on their hydrolysate. The microbes shown were grown/supported from our vermicompost using only Great Pacific Bioproducts hydrolysate. No other food sources were present. It supported fungal hyphae meaning that in the soil, micorrhizal fungi would derive food from the hydrolysate and it supported the growth of bacteria, amoebae and flagellates. > 8 MB  > 5 MB      

For those of you in the USA, I have run similar tests on Organic Gem fish hydrolysate and find it to be highly satisfactory as a feedstock which supports/feeds fungi and bacteria.
http://www.organicgem.com  and western distribution at  http://www.greatwesternsales.com

Other Friends in the Movement;
For an alternative compost tea brewer design and for fine quality compost and nutrient packs go to Keep It Simple and speak to my good friends Tad and Leon. >
   http://www.simplici-tea.com

If you are in the market for red wriggler composting worms, good quality vermicompost and blended vermicompost and thermophilic compost talk to my buddies Kelan & Hunt at Yelm Earthworm & Castings Farm. Their special blends are good for garden and compost tea >
  http://www.yelmworms.com

For my friends in Australia, for your  vermicompost and compost extract requirements and related services and products speak to Greg at Wormtec Worm Farming & Vermiculture at; > http://www.wormtec.com.au
    
A really good introductory book for delving into and understanding the microbial based horticultural world is 'Teaming With Microbes',  A Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web. It is written by Jeff Lowenfels & Wayne Lewis. You may find this book along with Jeff & Wayne's humus soil conditioner and compost tea ingredient, Alaska Humus at > http://www.alaskahumus.com  

Recipes Which Can Be Used With A  50 gallon (US) Compost Tea Brewer

Brewing Temperature:

There has been recent discussion concerning the best temperature for brewing. There are two basic schools of thought; 1/ that one should brew at the temperature of the soil where the CT is to be applied.  2/ that the temperature range of 63 F to 70 F (17 C to 21 C) is the optimum for a maximum production and diversity of microbes. This aspect obviously needs research. I am of the opinion that one should brew at a temperature which maximizes microbial numbers and creates a functional microbial nutrient cycling consortia. I think that a large, self supporting, population has a better chance of survival once applied to the soil. Besides, if you brew at 50 F it may take days to have a microbial population. I therefore try to start my brews around 65 F.

Compost:
If you are purchasing compost, I recommend compost from KIS or another source of compost which is known to be microbially active.

If you are home composting, generally speaking fresh vermicompost is just about the best substance one can use for brewing compost tea. If you can purchase some composting worms and feed them a variety of food you really can’t go wrong.

If you want a fungal compost SFI has recommended mixing oat flour (or powdered oatmeal) about 1:20 with your compost and keeping damp and covered with a cloth for 8 to 10 days. This does work, although I am unsure whether there is a diversity of species of fungal hyphae grown. If you see white or blue fuzz growing on the surface turn it under. What we want is transparent and colored microscopic fungal hyphae. A side benefit to this procedure is that if left longer than 10 days I have seen multitudes of bacterial feeding nematodes growing. I’m not sure if this is peculiar to my compost. Try it. Compost tea is not a good medium for distributing nematodes. Better to distribute them by hand in the compost.

Another trick to encourage fungal growth is to use good quality fish hydrolysate diluted in water (e.g. around 2 ounces per gallon of water) and dampen compost and cover for around 5 days with a cloth.

Although I am providing these recipes and guidelines which have worked for me, I cannot guarantee they will work identically with all brewers and compost quality. I encourage you to experiment but exercise common sense and consult with your professional contact.

The recipe amounts given are for use with water that has a TDS/EC (total dissolved solids) of 35 PPM (parts per million) or less. This is really pure well or spring water with a relatively low mineral content. Water with a high mineral content (or that is turbid) has a lower capacity to maintain dissolved oxygen. If you know or suspect that your water has a high mineral content or high TDS then it is advisable to reduce the amounts of compost and feedstock (e.g. molasses, kelp meal, rock powders, fish hydrolysate, etc.). The amounts of compost recommended are for a very efficient brewer, capable of raising DO2 rates close to 10 or 12 PPM. If this is not your situation, reduce the amounts used.

Please be aware that the quality of the compost or vermicompost used is directly proportional to the quality of the compost tea produced.

Some Measures;
50 gallons US is 189 liters
1 gal. = 3.78 liters
1 liter = 4.2 cups US
1 liter = 1.05 quarts US liquid
1 US ounce = 29.57 ml

Bacteria/Archaea
You will note that I use the expression bacteria/archaea rather than just bacteria. This is because recent scientific research has revealed that there is a distinct species, Archaea, co-habitating with bacteria which previously was called bacteria. The only way to tell them apart is through complex analysis. The difference is in their membrane structure and therefore their ability to process (digest) different substances. Because I can’t tell them apart under the microscope I have decided to name them both.

A/ Recipe for a Diversity of Microbes; Nutrient Cycling
- measurements do not need to be precise; expressed in different units in brackets.

*compost/vermicompost – 2.38% max. (4.5 liters), (19 cups US), (4.5 quarts US) – reduce as required according to brewer and water quality

*unsulphured pure black strap molasses - 0.75% (1.4 liters), (5.9 cups US), (1.4 quarts US) – reduce as required according to brewer and water quality

*fish hydrolysate(high quality) - 0.063% - (120 ml); (4 ounces)
Do not use chemically deodorized liquid fish!

*kelp meal - 0.25% max. (0.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
NOTE: This is a maximum amount of kelp and you can experiment using less.

*soft rock phosphate granules/powder - 0.063% - (120 ml) (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
We grind up the granules into a powder with a coffee grinder

Length of Brew;
This will provide a CT with a microbial content of, bacteria/archaea and fungal hyphae (if present in compost) when brewed for 18 to 24 hours. When using our fungal inhabited vermicompost, the optimum time seems to be 18 hours for a bacteria/archaea and fungal brew. If brewed for 42 to 48 hours there will be flagellates and amoebae (& some ciliates) as well, providing a functioning microbial consortia which is better for nutrient cycling in the soil/root interface. Because of the variations in brewing compost tea, it is better to examine the microbial content with a microscope and decide at what period of the brew you should apply it but if you do not have a microscope then use the CT between the time periods mentioned above for the desired effects.

Extras   (when using extras you may wish to adjust amounts of other ingredients to avoid overload)

*pyrophyllite clay powder – 0.063% - (120 ml), (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
This is a good ingredient to stimulate more bacteria/archaea diversity which seems to experimentally contribute to disease control. It can be found here at a reasonable price. http://www.continentalclay.com/detail.php?PID=695&cat_id=197&sub_categoryID=4

*alfalfa meal – up to 0.25% (.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
This promotes the growth of flagellates and amoebae. Just get the cheap stuff by the bag at the feed store, checking that it does not contain anti-microbials

*Canadian sphagnum peat moss Premier Brand – throw in a handful or two to promote flagellates and amoebae and/or fungal hyphae. Batches are inconsistent, so unless you have a microscope you won’t be sure which set of microbes it will promote but I have never seen anything bad.

B/ Fungal Dominant;

*compost/vermicompost (fungal content) -  2.38% max. (4.5 liters), (19 cups US), (4.5 quarts US)

*unsulphured pure black strap molasses - 0.25% (475 ml rounded), (2 cups US), (0.5 quart US) 
NOTE: Also experiment with eliminating black strap molasses. Recent trials have shown that with some types of compost the fungi does better. If you have a microscope check it out for yourself.
NOTE: If you have activated your compost with oat flour I recommend NOT using molasses in addition to fish hydrolysate unless you are willing to brew for a longer period and best to have a microscope.

*fish hydrolysate(high quality) - 0.190% - (360 ml) (12 ounces) Do not use chemically deodorized liquid fish! You may experiment using slightly higher amounts.

*kelp meal - 0.25% max. (.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
NOTE: This is a maximum amount of kelp and you can experiment using less.

*rock phosphate granules/powder - 0.063% - (120 ml), (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
NOTE: We seem to get the same results using 100 ml of rock phosphate but experiment yourself. Sometimes we run the rock phosphate granules through the electric coffee grinder to get a fine powder.

Extras   (when using extras you may wish to adjust amounts of other ingredients to avoid overload)

*you may also experiment with using humic acid (brand rated at 12% min.) for fungal stimulation at about the same rate as rock phosphate – 0.063% or as recommended by your professional contact. I do not have much experience using this in compost tea.

*you could also add one of the Alaska ‘Humus’ products and/or Canadian sphagnum Premier brand at 0.25% or less. If there are fungi spores present in the substance, hyphae should grow.

*you may add a little soil or partially/completely decomposed forest litter (rotted leaves, wood pieces). If you are applying CT to grass or flowers use some local soil from a healthy (unmanipulated by man) area where similar plant species are doing well. If you are applying to deciduous trees or bushes then gather some soil or forest litter from a deciduous forest where the forest appears healthy and has that…you know… fabulous earthy odor. I recommend using 500 ml. (0.5 liter) or 2 cups to begin with and see how that works out. Careful to not use big chunks if using the Microbulator 50.

Length of Brew
Brew until fungal hyphae is observed with a microscope or for 18 to 24 hours. When using our fungal inhabited vermicompost, the optimum time seems to be 18 hours for a bacteria/archaea and fungal brew, however fungal hyphae is extracted at 10 hours with less bacteria/archaea present. If you want a fungal dominant brew this may be the best time to apply. For those of you with microscopes, check it out. This recipe, provided there are fungi spores in your compost, should produce a higher volume of fungal hyphae and reduced bacteria/archaea numbers.